Indonesian Textiles" by John Gillow, photographs by Barry
Dawson published by Thames and Hudson in 1995 (first edition 1992). ISBN
0-500-27820-2. A comprehensive history of textile production in the Indonesian
archipelago and a complete guide to the islands and their products - from
Balinese double ikats and Javanese silks to the gold-thread brocades of
Textile Techniques" by Michael Hitchcock in the Shire Ethnography
series published by Shire Publications Ltd in 1985 0-85263-769-1 Follows
the production of woven textiles of Indonesia examining the harvesting
and spinnning of cotton, the use of silk and metallic threads, and traditional
Textiles" by Michael Hitchcock published by the British
Museum Press in association with The Centre for South-East Asian Studies,
University of Hul in 1991 ISBN l 0-7141-1598-3 The author focuses on Inonesia's
textiles decorated with batik and ikat as well as supplementary weft,
embroidery, couching, applique and gilding. He also shows how the skills
of the weavers and dyers are acquired and developed. 100 colour, 50 black
& white illustrations.
Symbols: Textiles and Tradition in Indonesia" by Mattiebelle
Gittinger published by Oxford University Press in 1990 ISBN 0-19-588956-8.
First published in 1979 by The Textile Museum, Washington. One of the
classic references on Indonesian textiles.
Speak with Cloth: Studies in Indonesian Textiles" edited
by Mattiebelle Gittinger published by the Museum of Cultural History,
UCLA in 1989. An anthology of essays assessing textiles and their role
in discrete micro-environments of Indonesia which contribute to a deeper
understanding of textiles throughout the archipelago.
|| "Five Centuries of Indonesian Textiles: The Mary Hunt Kahlenberg Collection" Edited by Ruth Barnes and Mary Hunt Kahlenberg published by Delmonico Books, Prestel in 2010 ISBN-978-3-7913-5071-4. See a full review of this impressive volume by Chris Buckley.
Design" by Pepin Van Roojen published byThe Pepin Press
in 1994 as a revised edition (first edition 1993). ISBN 90-5496-003-5.
Book traces the origins and development of the batik technique, as well
as of the motifs and patterns used in designing this type of textile.
An extensive and classified visual documentation is included, consisting
of a large selection of high quality black and white and colour photographs
of batik from some of the best private and museum collections in the world.
Its Mystery and Meaning" by Nian S Djoemena published by
Penerbit Djambatan First edition 1986. Second edition 1990. ISBN 979-428-131-X
Indonesia various The book discusses the motifs and colours or colour
combinations of the batik of a certain region in relation to the process,
the quality of batiking, the motifs and the colours to make it possible
to recognise the distinctive motifs and colours of a particular area.
Patterns" published by Agile Rabbit Editions with The Pepin
Press in 1999 with a CD ISBN 90-5768-004-1. High quality images of batik
for use as a graphic resource or inspiration.
Batik" by Drs. Hamzuri published by Penerbit Djambatan First
edition 1981. Fourth edition 1994. ISBN 979-428-118-2. Discusses classical
batik, callsic as regards the method of fabrication as well as quality
of ornamentation used.
in Diversity: The Textiles of Indonesia" by M. A. Hann &
G. M. Thomson published by University Gallery Leeds in 1993. ISBN 1-874331-04-9.
Slim volume of mainly (helpful) text and a few black & white photos
of a wide ranging selection of traditional Indonesian textile designs,
including batiks, ikats and songkets.
Ikats from the Oda Collection" Editor ICU Hachiro Yuasa
Memorial Museum, Reiko Hara, Akiko Fukuno published by International Christian
University Hachiro Yuasa Museum in 1993 edition. Exhibition catalogue
from exhibition of ikats in the collection of the late Hideo Oda collected
during numerous research trips to India and Indonesia. Mr Oda was a weaver
of silk and a researcher of fabrics. Text in Japanese and English.
Ikats" by Dra. Suwati Kartiwa published by Penerbit Djambatan
First edition 1987, Third edition 1993. ISBN 979-428-024-0 Indonesia various
A description is given of the development of ikat-weaving, the background
of the communities producing it, external influences which have enriched
Indonesian culture, acculturation of techniques, thread types, design
systems and utilisation.
All text in Japanese. Ikats of the Indonesian archipelago. Fine photographs
of fine ikat textiles.
Tie and Dye Textiles of Indonesia" by Kim Jane Saunders
in the series 'The Asia Collection' published by Oxford University Press
in 1997. ISBN 983-56-0021-X. Maps contemporary areas of production and
markets and documents a cross-sectin of current practices and examples
of tie and dye weaving in Indonesia.
Golden Sword: Stamford Raffles and the East" Edited by Nigel
Barley published by the British Museum Press in 1999. ISBN 0-7141-2542-3.
Accompanying the exhibition of the same name. The essays in the book investigate
Raffles contributions to the study of Javanese court arts, his forays
among the 'Hindu' Gengger Highlanders, the 'cannibal' Batak and the 'almost
in Indonesia" by Dra. Suwati Kartiwa published by Penerbit
Djambatan First edition 1986. This edition 1989. ISBN 979-428-130-1. The
book aims to provide an overall picture of songket weaving whose practice
is widespread throughout the Indonesian archipelago. Describes the development
of songket, the background of the communities producing it, external influences
which have enriched Indonesian culture, acculturation of techniques, thread
types, design sytems and utilization.
Nasional" Early guide book to Museum Nasional, Jakarta
Nasional Guidebook" published by PT Indo Multi Media in
1998. Guide book to Museum Nasional in Jakarta
Batak Textiles: Techniques and Function" and "Additional
Batak Cloths that Frequently enter into the Gift Exchange"
by Mattiebelle Gittinger published in The Textile Museum Journal Vol IV
number 2 in 1975. Much quoted articles on Batak weaving techniques including
that of the extended warp of the Ragidup.
||"Legacy in cloth: Batak textiles of Indonesia" by Sandra Niessen published by KITLV Press, Leiden in 2009 ISBN 978 90 6718 3512. Tthe first definitive study of the woven heritage of the Toba, Simalungun, and Karo Batak. The most complete analysis of Batak textiles ever published, it provides a record of more than 100 different design types, including archival and contemporary photographs showing how the textiles are woven and how they are used in Batak culture. It benefits from fieldwork conducted over two decades and consultation of all major European collections of Batak textiles and private collections in Indonesia. 568 pps. 900 illustrations.
Cloth and Clothing: A Dynamic Indonesian Tradition" by Sandra.
A Niessen in series 'The Asia Collection' published by Oxford University
Press in 1993 ISBN 967-65-3040-9. The book examines factors which inspired
the Batak to wear Malay and European styles on a daily basis and to reserve
the use of their hipcloths and shouldercloths for ceremonial occasions.
of Life in Toba Batak Texts and Textiles" by Sandra. A Niessen
published by Foris Publications in 1985 ISBN 90-6765-067-6. Based on Niessen's
PhD dissertation. The role of textiles in Batak culture examining their
role in mythology, the kinship system and local conceptions of fertility,
time, and space. Pays special attention to the logic of the Toba Batak
anology of woven textiles and 'textiles which do not wear out' viz women.
Warp in the Batak Ragidup and Bulang" by Sandra. A Niessen
in The Textile Museum Journal Volumes 27 and 28 1988 and 1989 published
in 1990. ISSN 0083-7407. Article on warp exchange - both extension and
substitution of the Toba and Simulgan Batak following on from the Gittinger
1975 article and based on Niessen's 1980s' research amongst Batak weavers.
Batak: Peoples of the Island of Sumatra" by Achim Sibeth
published by Thames and Hudson in 1991. ISBN 0-500-97392-X. A record of
the Batak cultural achievement - over 650 items illustrated: wood carvings,
bronze objects, jewelry, textiles and weapons drawn from ethnographic
museums and various private collections in Euruope.
the Folds: Stories of Cloth, Lives, and Travels from Sumba"
by Jill Forshee published by University of Hawai'I Press in 2001 ISBN
0-8248-2346-X. Book based on research carried out in East Sumba in 1990,
91 and 93-94. 'A wide-ranging ethnographic journey, contoured by people
who create and trade a kind of cloth through which they interweave and
convolute the traditonal and the modern, blurring such definitions'.
or sea Dayak fabrics and their patterns" by A.C. Haddon
& L.E. Start. Reprint in 1982 published by Ruth Blean ISBN 0-903585-11-1
of classic 1936 monography on the fabrics of the Iban of Sarawak focused
on those in the Cambridge Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology. Profusely
illustrated with the original line drawings and black & white photos.
weaving between heaven and earth: Religious implications of bird motifs
on textiles" by Itie van Hout in the Culture, History and
Anthropology series Bulletin 345 published by the Royal Tropical Institute
- Amsterdam ISBN 90-6832-833-6 Shows textiles from three ethnic groups
living in Indonsia: the Iban of Borneo (today Sarawk and Kalimantan),
the inhabitants of eastern Sumba, and the Atoni on Timor. Some colour
Textiles of West Timor: Regional Variations in Historical Perspective"
by Ruth Marie Yeager and Mark Ivan Jacobson published by Batuan Biru Productions
in 1997 ISBN 0-9635296-1-7 This edition is based on black & white
photocopied photos and text. Reference work on the identifcation and classification
of Timorese textiles.
Embroidery in the Minangkabau Adat" by Sativa Sutan Aswar
published by Penerbit Djambatan in 1999. ISBN 979-428-148-4. The artistyr
of creating embroidery work is specifically a 'Minang tradition'. The
Minangkabau embroidery has its own characteristic that differentiates
embroidery or handiwork from other regions in Indonesia. One of its characteristics
that makes Minang embroidery so unique, is the variation of patterns of
the needlework which is a blend from other cultures long ago when many
merchants came into its port.
Cloths of Minangkabau" by Anne and John Summerfield published
by the Santa Barbara Museum of Art in 1991 ISBN 0-89951-082-5. Catalogue
to accompany the exhibition at the Santa Barbara Museum.
in Splendour: Ceremonial Dress and the Minangkabau" Edited
by Anne and John Summerfield in the Cultural History Textile Series No
4 published by the UCLA Fowler Museum of Cultural History in 1999 ISBN
0-930741-73-0 Magnificent volume to accompany the exhibition of the same
name. A comprehensive introduction to the people and culture of the Minangkabau.
Full of fine photos.
of Savu: Women Weaving History in Eastern Indonesia" by
Genevieve Duggan published by White Lotus 2001 ISBN 974-7534-67-3 Explores
the links between mythology and weavings of Savu and examines how textiles
have formed the fabric of Savunese society through time. Includes some
colour photos of Savunese traditional textiles.
Blossoms, Seeds of History: Ikats of Savu as Time Markers"
article by Genevieve Duggan published in Hali Issue 134 May-June 2004
Ancestors: Indigenous Styles of Southeast Asia" edited by
Douglas Newton and Jean paul Barbier, published by Prestel in 1988 ISBN
3-7913-0899-8 Essays on the art of the islands of southeast Asia - Taiwan,
Indonesia, Borneo, Philippines with mainly black & white photos but
a few colour. Published in conjunction with a two-part exhibition at The
Metropolitan Museum of Art and drawing upon the extensive collection of
the Barbier-Mueller Museum in Geneva.
||"Sari to Sarong:
Five hundred years of Indian and Indonesian textile exchange"
by Robyn Maxwell published by the National Gallery of Australia in 2003
ISBN 0-642-54113-2 The book to accompany the exhibition of the same name
and based on the extensive collection in the National Gallery of Australia.
Indian Textiles in the East" by John Guy published by Thames
and Hudson in 1998 ISBN 0-500-01863-4 Fascinating volume on the trade
in Indian textiles to Southeast and East Asia with excellent black &
white and colour photos.
Thread of Time: Southeast Asian Textiles. The James H W Thompson Foundation
Symposium Papers" Edited by Jane Puranananda, published
by River Books in 2004 ISBN 974-8225-76-3. Papers on textiles from Cambodia,
Indonesia, Laos, Myanmar, Thailand, Vietnam from the 1999 textile symposium.
Asia: A Common Heritage" Edited by Songsak Prangwatthanakun,
published in 1993 by the Office of the National Culture Commission, Ministry
of Education and Center for the Promotion of Arts and Culture, Chiang
Mai University. Revised edition of collected papers from the 1992 workshop-seminar
of the same name. A range of interesting papers on various elements of
textiles from countries across Asia (Laos, Thailand, Vietnam, India, Pakistan,
Indonesia, Malaysia, Japan, Korea, Philippines.)Textiles of Asia: A Common
Heritage Edited by Songsak Prangwatthanakun Office of the National Culture
Commission, Ministry of Education and Center for the Promotion of Arts
and Culture, Chiang Mai University various various August 1993 edition.
Revised edition of collected papers from the 1992 workshop-seminar of
the same name. A range of interesting papers on various elements of textiles
from countries across Asia.
||"The Asian Civilisations
Museum A-Z Guide to its collections" published by the Asia
Civilisations Museum in 2003 ISBN 981-4068-67-5
Textiles of South-east Asia" by Sylvia Fraser-Lu published by
Oxford University Press 1988. ISBN 0-19-588954-1. Covers Thailand, Laos,
Kampuchea, Vietnam, Malaysia, Brunei, Philippines, Indonesia and with
some excellent pages on weaving in Burma.
||"Textiles of Southeast
Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation" by Robyn Maxwell
published by Periplus Editions
(HK) Ltd in 2003. ISBN 0-7946-0104-9. This is a reprinted edition of the
book below with new colour plates, a corrected text, and a new foreword
by Mattiebelle Gittinger. There is no doubt that the switch to colour
of the majority of the plates makes a huge difference to this excellent
major reference work.
||"Textiles of Southeast
Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation" by Robyn Maxwell published
by Oxford University Press, Australian National Gallery in 1990 and reprinted
in 1994 ISBN 967-65-3060 3. Major reference work on the textiles of Southeast
Asia. Central focus is the interplay between indigenous Southeast Asian
traditions and the external cultural forces that have had a crucial part
of the historical development and changing nature of the region's textile
traditions. Needs careful (but rewarding) study as textiles from particular
groups or areas appear throughout the volume illustrating different themes.
||"Textiles of Southeast
Asia: An Annotated & Illustrated Bibliography" by Michael
C. Howard published by White Lotus Press1994. ISBN 974-8496-13-9 In depth
compilation of the literature in the field. Small number of colour plates
of textiles including a few from Laos. Almost 50 pages of detailed references
to literature on textiles in Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia.
||"The Art of Asian
Costume" published by University of Hawaii Art Gallery University
of Hawaii in 1989. Exhibition with apparel from 20 Asian countries from
the Asian Costume Collection of the Department of Human Resources at the
University of Hawaii.