The photos above show the front, back and three details of
a Khumi woman's tubeskirt now in my collection which I purchased
from Susan Stem (of www.tribaltrappings.com) who took the
photographs to illustrate the skirt to me.
This skirt is quite similar to figures 87. and 88. on page
152 of Michael C Howard's book "Textiles of the Hill
Tribes fo Burma" although the photographs do not show
a great deal of detail as the back and front of a "Khumi
Tubeskirt 88cm x 44cm2 is at a similar definition to the thumbnail
photos above showing back and front of the skirt. The
tubeskirt in figs. 87. and 88. does not show the change in
design as does the one above. However, on page 115 re
fig 87, Howard says "Khumi, tubeskirt, cotton black warp
threads with red supplementary weft patterning throughout
on the front and vertical lines on the rear, thin vertical
lines of green and yellow supplementary weft patterning near
the edges of the front, double weave that produces a plain
balck inside/back, glass beads added along top and bottom
as accessories, 88cm x 44cm. See photograph in Brauns
& Löffler 1990: 35. (Private Collection)." (Brauns,
Claus-Dieter and Lorenz G. Löffler, Mru: Hill Peole
on the Border of Bangladesh (Basel: Birkhäuser Verlag,
In The Textile Museum (Washington) Journal 1999-2000 article
"Notes from the Field: On the Trail of Khumi, Khami and
Mro Textiles" by Deborah Lindsay Garner and Jay Bommer
on page 29 figures 5 and 6. show a "Khumi woman's lower-body
wrapper (nay na) 96.5 x 44.5cm and a detail in which
the weave patters are very similar indeed to the one above.
The photos are in black and white so it is not possible to
assess colour similarities. Fig. 7. also on page 29
shows how the skirt would be worn in a "photograph was
taken about 1967 and is of Daw Ma Thaoo, a Khumi woman who
levies in Paletwa. She is wearing the traditional nay
na, or skirt as well as belts, earings, and head scarf.
Missing is the ne kouk (breast cloth); in its place
is a blouse purchased in the marketplace."
Garner and Bommer describe (page 28) the nay na
thus: "Women also wear a short, tubular shirt called
nay na, which falls just above the knee (figs 5,
6). These skirts display tightly controlled single faced
weaving with elegant geometric patterns. The top and
bottom edges are ornamented with rows of beaded fringes.
This skirt is secured by a metal or glass beaded belt that
is tied in front and sometimes draped gradually down in the
back to behind the knee."
Also on page 28 Garner and Bommer describe the Khumi as "mostly
hill people who inhabit settlements along streams in the vicinity
of the Kaladan River and its tributaries (Mi Chung, Pi Chaung,
Sami Chaung) north, northeast, and northwest of the town of
Kyauk Taw, with a major concentration in the Paletwa area."
Pages 26 and 27 have maps illustrating location. The
Kaladan river valley and surrounding hills are in northern
Arkan State and southwestern Chin State in Burma.
bibliography for details of the two references quoted