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tribaltextiles.info • View topic - Jaspe / jaspeado & Central / South American ikats

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 1:56 am 
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Location: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Hi everyone. Does jaspe / jaspeado describe all ikats made in Central and South America (Bolivia, Mexico, Argentina etc.) or just the double ikats from Guatemala? Plus, is Guatemala the only place in this region that produces double ikats? :mrgreen:

Many thanks in advance.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 9:52 am 
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 Post subject: Jaspe
PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 7:45 am 
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 1:29 pm 
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Location: USA
Hello everyone. My understanding is that the double ikat is still produced in Guatemala and Mexico. I would assume that in Mexico. it would be way South. There is a small reference to this in "The Dyer's Art, Ikat, Batik, Plangi".

Someone in a previous post refered to the Guatemala double ikat as "sloppy". I offer the following pictures of a Totonicapan or Quezaltenango double ikat I collected in Guatemala 4 or 5 years ago. If it's sloppy, it's because of my poor pictures and this was a booger to photograph due to the color and the depth.

For some other good examples, see Altman and West's book, "Threads of Identity, Maya Costume of the 1960's in Highland Guatemala".

Best,
Richard


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Image001 (21).jpg [ 55.58 KiB | Viewed 18178 times ]
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 Post subject: Jaspe
PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:16 am 
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Hi Richard, thanks for your reply & for the images. Well, I suppose everyone has their opinion.. but I would never call any traditional ikat fabric sloppy unless it's a poor modern reproduction. The one you showed looks very fine to me.


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 Post subject: ikat in Bolivia
PostPosted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 5:28 pm 
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 12:47 pm 
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 3:25 pm 
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 5:38 pm 
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 9:38 pm 
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 1:18 pm 
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File comment: from POLLET, Liban. In: IKAT, International Textile Exhibition, Antwerp, Belgium. 1991. page 20
Pollet-Liban-IKAT-Antwerp-w.jpg
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2006 2:10 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 9:32 pm 
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Today I happened to be wearing a fairly 'mature' favourite jacket that I had not worn for some time. It is made out of fabric from Guatemala and I bought it in 1994 in Toronto. As I idlely looked at the fabric I suddenly realised that it was 'compound ikat' as discussed on this thread which I hastened to seek out. I thought that I would post a couple of details of the fabric as it is quite a nice example of warp ikat (jaspe de urdimbre), weft ikat (jaspe de trama) woven together as a compound ikat. Clearly 'the warp and weft patterns cross each other without being attuned to each other' although there is a pleasing regularity in the resulting patterning.


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File comment: Guatemalan compound ikat
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File comment: Guatemalan compound ikat
IMGP5690a.jpg
IMGP5690a.jpg [ 66.76 KiB | Viewed 17299 times ]

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Last edited by Pamela on Sun Jun 06, 2010 6:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject: South American Ikats
PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 7:56 am 
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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 9:21 pm 
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The word in Spanish for "tie" is "atar" and the past participle 'tied" is "atado". Therefore I strongly suspect that the word "watado" that the Quechua speaking people of Bolivia are using has its origin in this Spanish word. I have seen and collected a few examples of it in Calcha, Bolivia where small strips were incorporated into ponchos-very basic simple designs. One of my weaving teachers in Candearia was making a heavy woollen bed cover weaving in designs and lettering with her husband's and her names in ikat. She told me that this was a local tradition for a newly-wed woman.
I have a publication from the Museo Ixchel of Guatemala City by Humberto Ak'abal which opens with this...
"Jaspe, or jasper, in the language of minerals is a stone. But in the language of Guatemala's traditional Maya weavings it refers to the creation of a design that begins with a knot, that later expands on the loom and finally creates a variegated pattern across the cloth; therein lies the mystery of a knot that becomes a design, or the discovery of a figure enclosed within a knot."

What a wonderfully enticing description!! "Jaspe" does seem to be applied to all forms whether they be only warp or warp and weft.

I have seen a lot of ikat in Ecuador especially around Cuenca in the south, the big bold ikat ponchos of the Mapuche of central Chile, as well as the small examples already mentioned here in Bolivia. I have only seen warp and weft ikat in Guatemala but this in no way would lead me to conclude that it is unique to Guatemala amongst central and south American countries.

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Last edited by Laverne on Mon May 17, 2010 9:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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