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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2005 2:27 pm 
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I thought that I would share with the forum a charming child's jacket which I collected in Gu Ping township, Congjian county, Guizhou this May. The jacket came from the Miao of San Gang village. I am not sure whether the jacket is that of a little girl or a little boy but the style of the jacket echoes that of a girl/woman's jacket with the added triangles at the side front and back - see IMGP3891, the first image in the next post below). It is quite interesting as it has several different textile techniques. The base fabric is a very shiny indigo which has been beaten and then treated with a substance, possibly egg white, to give a stiff and very shiny surface. There is embroidery, I think some decorative weaving and also some wax resist. The wax resist is not created with a wax knife but, I believe, either a slim piece of bamboo or a feather quill. It has chicken feather trimming and some seeds.

I did not see the jacket being worn. It was bought from an older woman who brought it with her when a couple of hundred or so villagers from San Gang village walked the three hour trek from their village to meet us (after torrential rain) on the road near the Dong village of Yin Tang in Gu Ping township. About 45 dancers and musicians accompanied by what seemed like all the rest of the villagers able to make the trek (not very tiny children nor the very old) came to the mini festival which they created and all enjoyed. We had the tremendous experience of seeing the dancers and musicians dressing up in their festival finery - the young boys unusually had very splendid costumes. They turned a drained paddy field into a performance ground and played and danced for us. Some of the dances seemed to mimic the movement of birds; they used quite a lot of white feathers as decoration and what looks like chickens appear in their embroidery.

I am posting some photos of the child's jacket. In the next post I show the girls and boys from Sa Gang donning their festival costume and then dancing in full costume.

In the next post I will show a shot of the 'resist' (not wax but gum from a tree, possibly one of the maple family) which creates it and the slim bamboo twig which may have created the design lying on a wax-resist skirt hem. We had seen this the day before in what must be a related Miao group in Ba Sha (or Baisha) village, Cheng Guan township, Congjian county. (Skirts worn by older women from both villages were very similar as was embroidery on their aprons.) In Deryn O’Connor’s book ‘Miao Costumes from Guizhou Province South West China’ published by the James Hockey Gallery, now part of Surrey Institute of Art and Design, she has some clothing from Ba Sha (or Baisha) village which she terms ‘Rongshui style described on pages 56, 57 and 60 and shown on page 58 figures 105-108. Under the later section of the book which covers techniques, on page 74, there are two photos – 136. Baisha girl waxing and 137. Baisha quill waxing tool. I gave Deryn a ring and she has given permission for me to post these two photos on the forum – see separate post below. She also confirmed that slim twigs of bamboo were also used as an alternative to a quill. She shared her excitement with me of the use of tools which could have pre-dated a knowledge of metal working. (I was able to buy copies of this book last year and it is still showing as a catalogue which can be bought at http://www.surrart.ac.uk/index.cfm?articleid=1592 ). Deryn in the catalogue – page 76 - talks of the girl in 137 “very carefully waxing areas of pattern shaped to fit the top of aprons and the strip on gaiters. In this case the top surface of the cloth has been treated with a starch or gum to make it smooth. The wax only sits on the surface and does not penetrate the cloth. A good resist is achieved by dyeing the cloth folded over so that the dye cannot reach the centre – in Baisha both outer sides are decorated with waxed patterns.”

In due course I hope to create photogalleries of both Ba Sha village and of the villagers from San Gang. When these are live I will add links to the galleries from these posts.


Attachments:
File comment: Front of child's jacket - The jacket came from the Miao of San Gang village, Gu Ping township, Congjian county, Guizhou - May 05.
IMGP4627w.jpg
IMGP4627w.jpg [ 57.98 KiB | Viewed 6295 times ]
File comment: Back of child's jacket - The jacket came from the Miao of San Gang village, Gu Ping township, Congjian county, Guizhou - May 05.
IMGP4636w.jpg
IMGP4636w.jpg [ 60.24 KiB | Viewed 6295 times ]
File comment: detail of child's jacket - The jacket came from the Miao of San Gang village, Gu Ping township, Congjian county, Guizhou - May 05.
IMGP4635w.jpg
IMGP4635w.jpg [ 60.14 KiB | Viewed 6295 times ]

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Last edited by Pamela on Mon Jun 20, 2005 6:30 am, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2005 2:41 pm 
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Some villagers from Sang Gang Village, Gu Ping township, Congjiang county, Guizhou province. They had walked for three hours to meet us by the road and showed to us how they dressed in their festival costume followed by some dances and music. (May 2005) Note the skirts being worn by the older women in the first photo below this post. This is a similar skirt as seen in Ba Sha (Baisha) village, Cheng Guan township, Congjian county as mentioned in the first post of this thread. See the next post for shots of a bamboo waxing tool and resin resist (from a tree) and a quill as see in the book Miao costume.


Attachments:
File comment: Dressing a young man from Sang Gang Village, Gu Ping township, Congjiang county, Guizhou province into festival clothes
IMGP3891w.jpg
IMGP3891w.jpg [ 59.69 KiB | Viewed 6282 times ]
File comment: Dressing a young man from Sang Gang Village, Gu Ping township, Congjiang county, Guizhou province into festival clothes
IMGP3882w.jpg
IMGP3882w.jpg [ 58 KiB | Viewed 6282 times ]
File comment: Two girls in their festival costumes from Sang Gang Village, Gu Ping township, Congjiang county, Guizhou province
IMGP3919w.jpg
IMGP3919w.jpg [ 57.19 KiB | Viewed 6282 times ]
File comment: Dancers from Sang Gang Village, Gu Ping township, Congjiang county, Guizhou province
IMGP3963w.jpg
IMGP3963w.jpg [ 60.88 KiB | Viewed 6282 times ]

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2005 2:55 pm 
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A shot of the 'resist' (not wax but gum/resin from a tree, possibly one of the maple family) which creates it and the slim bamboo twig which may have created the design lying on a wax-resist skirt hem. This photo was taken in a house in Ba Sha (or Baisha) village, Cheng Guan township, Congjian county, Guizhou province.

This is followed by two photos from Deryn O’Connor’s book ‘Miao Costumes from Guizhou Province South West China’ published by the James Hockey Gallery, now part of Surrey Institute of Art and Design. (Location photos by Gina Corrigan, studio photography by Abbas Nazari). Page 74 - 136. Baisha girl waxing and 137. Baisha quill waxing tool.


Attachments:
File comment: A shot of the 'resist' (not wax but gum/resin from a tree, possibly one of the maple family) which creates it and the slim bamboo twig which may have created the design lying on a wax-resist skirt hem. This photo was taken in a house in Ba Sha (or Baisha
IMGP3814w.jpg
IMGP3814w.jpg [ 58.61 KiB | Viewed 6248 times ]
File comment: Page 74 - 137. Baisha girl waxing from Deryn O’Connor’s book ‘Miao Costumes from Guizhou Province South West China’ published by the James Hockey Gallery, now part of Surrey Institute of Art and Design.
f137w_.jpg
f137w_.jpg [ 55.53 KiB | Viewed 6274 times ]
File comment: Page 74 - 136. Baisha girl waxing from Deryn O’Connor’s book ‘Miao Costumes from Guizhou Province South West China’ published by the James Hockey Gallery, now part of Surrey Institute of Art and Design.
f.136w.jpg
f.136w.jpg [ 47.1 KiB | Viewed 6274 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2005 9:25 pm 
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I am not sure that anyone is interested but, just to round off these photos for now I have some details of the front overskirt in panels of fine gum resist and shiny indigo cloth. You will see one being worn in the preceding photos. It seems that some skirts are now being made with inserts of plain light indigo cloth rather than the fine resist - see the two girls in IMGP3919w above. This skirt was purchased from the villagers from Sang Gang Village, Gu Ping township, Congjiang county.

We sometimes talk on the forum about whether the clothing of one group has been influenced by near neighbours of another group. I found it very interesting on my trip to the south-east of Guizhou to see several items of clothing or parts of clothing that were similar and appeared across different ethnic groups and amongst similar groups. Indigo cloth with a very high shine is clearly very much valued in this area and it is a major feature of the clothing of the Dong and several neighbouring Miao groups. Another common decoration that can be seen in this skirt is the decorated, narrow rectangular hanging piece hanging at each side of this overskirt. Several Miao groups across from Danzhai to Congjiang (and probably further east) had these decorations on their skirts or as over skirts. Susan Stem posted an old Dong skirt with featuring these, probably from the same area and there are several old Dong ones from Rongjiang and Congjiang featured in the book 'Costumes and Accessories of Chinese Minorities' which have been commented on elsewhere on this forum. However, this decorative style is another story and could be the subject of another post if anyone is interested.


Attachments:
File comment: Resist (probably tree resin) front pleated and panelled overskirt - part of the festival costume of girls from Sang Gang Village, Gu Ping township, Congjiang county.
IMGP4652w.jpg
IMGP4652w.jpg [ 61.21 KiB | Viewed 6242 times ]
File comment: Detail of resist (probably tree resin) front pleated and panelled overskirt - part of the festival costume of girls from Sang Gang Village, Gu Ping township, Congjiang county.
IMGP4657w.jpg
IMGP4657w.jpg [ 58.38 KiB | Viewed 6242 times ]

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