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tribaltextiles.info • View topic - Yao 'celestial crowns'

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 Post subject: Yao 'celestial crowns'
PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 9:17 pm 
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Attachments:
File comment: Yao celestial crown in the collection of Ann B Goodman - note the embroidered kerchief behind the 'crown'
YaoW.jpg
YaoW.jpg [ 63.81 KiB | Viewed 27075 times ]

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 9:33 pm 
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File comment: Page 105 'The Yao Nationality' 'Landian Yao woman's silver headgear'
p105-tyn-LandianYao.jpg
p105-tyn-LandianYao.jpg [ 62.83 KiB | Viewed 27067 times ]
File comment: Page 97 of 'The Yao Nationality' 'Yao woman's silver plate cap'
p97-tum-Yao-wmns-slvr-plt-c.jpg
p97-tum-Yao-wmns-slvr-plt-c.jpg [ 71.43 KiB | Viewed 27067 times ]
File comment: Page 43 of 'The Yao Nationality' 'Yao girls'.
p43-tyn-Yao-girls.jpg
p43-tyn-Yao-girls.jpg [ 73.8 KiB | Viewed 27067 times ]
File comment: Page 40 of 'The Yao Nationality' Two Yao women of Mojiang. Both are wearing the 'celestial crowns'.
p40-tyn-2-Yao-wmn-Mojiang.jpg
p40-tyn-2-Yao-wmn-Mojiang.jpg [ 78.48 KiB | Viewed 27067 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 1:44 pm 
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I have had permission from Jeanee Linden to post the images of the celestial crown which she asked me about.


Attachments:
Ctex-216.jpgw.jpg
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 5:03 pm 
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Pamela and Ann,

Thanks for the beautiful photos. The Chinese text indicates these photos were taken in Luchun County and Jiangcheng Prefecture, Yunnan. Both of these areas are on Yunnan's southern border with Vietnam and Laos respectively.

Attached is p.44 from Yaozu Fushi (Yao Costumes) Guangxi, 1985. The girl on the left is from southern Yunnan. The girl on the right is from the Baise area in Guangxi.

Steven


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yao_146w.jpg
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 5:32 pm 
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Steven

Thanks so very much for the additional info gleaned from the Chinese text in 'The Yao Nationality' and the photos and text from' Yaozu Fushi' (Yao Costumes) Guangxi. The latter are spot on as Jeanee Linden was particularly keen to know how the textile is worn with the 'crown'.

This is excellent material creating an informative thread. I will be posting some photos from Jess Pourret's book as Susan Stem managed today to secure his permission to post images from his book on the forum for which I am very grateful, not only for this thread but for others in the future.

Best,

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 5:56 pm 
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I thought I would post two photos from Jess Pourret's very excellent book: "The Yao: The Mien and Mun Yao in China, Vietnam, Laos and Thailand" published by River Books in 2002. I am very grateful for his permission to post photos from the book on the forum.

There are several good photos in his book of the Kim Mun, Lantien Sha. Here I am picking a few of the ones I discussed above in my first post and reference should be made to the text I quoted from the captions to the photos.


Attachments:
File comment: From page 93 of "The Yao: The Mien and Mun Yao in China, Vietnam, Laos and Thailand" fig 200, showing woman's clothing from Kim Mun, Lantien Sha, Luang Nam Tha, North Laos. See quote from the caption in first post above.
p93tY-JP-head-kerchiefs.jpg
p93tY-JP-head-kerchiefs.jpg [ 75.6 KiB | Viewed 27022 times ]
File comment: From page 128 of "The Yao: The Mien and Mun Yao in China, Vietnam, Laos and Thailand" figures 301, 302 and 303. See text from the captions in first post above. 301 shows Kim Mun Lantien Sha from Motiang in southern Yunnan but photographed in N
p128tY-JP-301-2-3.jpg
p128tY-JP-301-2-3.jpg [ 73.52 KiB | Viewed 27022 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 6:42 pm 
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I could not resist posting another image from Yaozu Fushi.

Another book, Minority Nationalities Costumes and Ornaments in Yunnan (Kunming, 1992), also has a poorly reproduced illustration on page 152 of a "celestial crown". Rather than calling it a "celestial crown", the book refers to it less poetically as a "flower engraved silver head plate" There is an accompanying necklace like the one worn in the photo I posted above.


Attachments:
File comment: Yaozu Fushi p. 48. These women are from Shiwan Dashan, Guangxi and are known locally as "Flower Head Yao". The silver ornament is called a "plum flower hair cover". Both young and old style their coiffure in the same way here. They wra
yao_724w.jpg
yao_724w.jpg [ 72.82 KiB | Viewed 27012 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 6:44 pm 
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It seems the caption dropped some of my text. Women wrap their hair with the strands of pink thread. They then place the embroidered flower head cover on top of the silver ornament.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 8:37 pm 
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Attachments:
File comment: Celestial crown and kerchief, fig 425, p165 "The Yao: The Mien and Mun Yao in China, Vietnam, Laos and Thailand" published by River Books - caption above
p165-f425Y-JP.jpg
p165-f425Y-JP.jpg [ 65.89 KiB | Viewed 26999 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 2:42 pm 
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A couple of weeks ago I was looking at some excellent photoraphs of minorities in Vietnam taken by Tristan Savatier, 'Industrial, Art, Events and Travel Photographer' when he spent a month in Vietnam in November 2005. He had contacted me to see if I could help him identify the people shown in a few of his photos. As I was looking through the general body of his Vietnam photos I was attracted to one of a woman, a market trader, in Bảo Lạc and realised that what I could see, peeping from under an embroidered cloth, was a celestial crown. I then set about hunting through Tristan's photos in ernest and found a whole group of photos showing how the crown is being worn today. I was especially interested to see how the embroidered cloth was also being used in conjunction with the crown. Tristan has given me permission to share his photos on the forum and I post several below. Go to his website http://www.loupiote.com to see his photos and, in particular, a stunning, large group from Vietnam http://www.loupiote.com/sets/72057594049714778.shtml

I will post the group of photos relating to the first woman wearing the crown who caught my eye and then, I hope Tristan won't mind, a few more of girls from the same tribal group, presumably Kim Mun Lantien Sha as described in Jess Pourret's book on the Yao referred to above.


Attachments:
File comment: First of two photos which caught my eye first of all with just a hint of the crown showing under the embroidered cloth
93905235w.jpg
93905235w.jpg [ 75.97 KiB | Viewed 26381 times ]
File comment: Second of two photos which caught my eye first of all with just a hint of the crown showing under the embroidered cloth
93902830w.jpg
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File comment: The crown secured to the hair which is held by several pins - front view
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File comment: winding the embroidered cloth around the headdress frame including the crown
93902761w.jpg
93902761w.jpg [ 75.09 KiB | Viewed 26393 times ]
File comment: back view of headdress showing the crown
93902901w.jpg
93902901w.jpg [ 77.07 KiB | Viewed 26393 times ]
File comment: close-up of detail of crown
93902978w.jpg
93902978w.jpg [ 72.41 KiB | Viewed 26393 times ]

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Last edited by Pamela on Sun May 20, 2012 9:02 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 2:53 pm 
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Photos of some younger women (presumably Kim Mun Lantien Sha) taken at the same market in Bảo Lạc, Cao Bang Province, northern Vietnam. The crown is not visible in these photos but the shots of the embroidered cloths which 'dress' it are excellent. Also note the ubiquitous machine woven plaid scarfs worn at the neck which so many of the minorities in Vietnam use now in their costumes. I am also adding in a photo of an old woman whom I am sure is also Kim Mun Lantien Sha and will probably have a celestial crown hidden under her purple scarf.

I am indebted to Tristan Savatier for his super photos and allowing me to share them with you. It really is the fun of collection and identification to have a 'eureka moment' as I did when looking at his photos and realised that I was seeing a Yao celestial crown being worn. I assume that this crown shown is aluminium rather than silver.


Attachments:
93903511w.jpg
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93903583w.jpg
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93903706w.jpg
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File comment: older woman and I feel sure that she is Kim Mun Lantien Sha with a celestial crown under her scarf.
93902641w.jpg
93902641w.jpg [ 72.92 KiB | Viewed 26385 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 12:23 pm 
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Location: Formerly Taipei -Taiwan, now Shanghai - China
Hello all of you
Pamela, Steve and Ann, many thanks for sharing all these very interesting informations and pictures on the Yao and their celestial crowns.
For sure, I'm learning fast, with one eye on the forum and the other on the Pourret's book.
By the way, I have a question : are these celestial crowns only worn by the Yao or are they also by other of the neighboring minorities ?
Thanks for your help
Nicolas


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 7:03 pm 
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Nicolas

I think that it is only Yao who wear this sort of crown. There are some variations of crown between one or two different Yao groups. Interesting that they wear them for 'every day' rather than festivals only.

The Miao certainly have a tradition of silver/white metal head dresses and these are often far more dramatic and 'in your face' than the Yao crowns. These tend to be worn for festivals but not every day.

I am attaching some photos from my travels in Guizhou in 2001 and 2005 showing some Miao metal headwear:
1. Miao, Da Zhai village, Taipan township, Taijiang county, Guizhou - May 2005. Definitely festival wear.
2. Miao, Yangweng village of Bajie township, Sandu county, Guizhou - May 2005. Again, festival wear. (2 photos)
3. Miao, Lou Jia Zhuang village, Anshun city, Guizhou. Oct 01 I think this is pretty much every day although probably only by older women now.
4. Miao, Bai Jia Po village, Feng Ting township, Luodian county, Guizhou. Oct 2001. These girls wear these head dresses as part of their dance costumes, presumably based on festival wear. I don't know if they may have previously also been worn more every day or not - perhaps without the main disc silver-ware.
5. Zhou Xi Miao, Zhoui Xi Township, Kaili City Nov 2001. Festival headwear although if you look at the first girl on the right and the middle woman I think that their solid metal 'crowns' are (or were) more every day. There was a silver-smith in this village in 2001. We visited again in 2005 but I don't know if the silver-smith was still there then.


Attachments:
File comment: 1. Miao, Da Zhai village, Taipan township, Taijiang county, Guizhou - May 2005. Definitely festival wear.
01812834w.jpg
01812834w.jpg [ 76.35 KiB | Viewed 26252 times ]
File comment: 2. Miao, Yangweng village of Bajie township, Sandu county, Guizhou - May 2005. Again, festival wear.
IMGP2848w.jpg
IMGP2848w.jpg [ 78.94 KiB | Viewed 26252 times ]
File comment: 2. Miao, Yangweng village of Bajie township, Sandu county, Guizhou - May 2005. Again, festival wear - detail
IMGP2846w.jpg
IMGP2846w.jpg [ 74.9 KiB | Viewed 26252 times ]
File comment: 3. Miao, Lou Jia Zhuang village, Anshun city, Guizhou. Oct 01 I think this is pretty much every day although probably only by older women now.
0110B24Aw.jpg
0110B24Aw.jpg [ 76.57 KiB | Viewed 26252 times ]
File comment: 4. Miao, Bai Jia Po village, Feng Ting township, Luodian county, Guizhou. Oct 2001. These girls wear these head dresses as part of their dance costumes, presumably based on festival wear. I don't know if they may have previously also been worn more eve
0110I29w.jpg
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File comment: 5. Zhou Xi Miao, Zhoui Xi Township, Kaili City Nov 2001. Festival headwear although if you look at the first girl on the right and the middel woman I think that their solid metal 'crowns' are (or were) more every day.
0111I02w.jpg
0111I02w.jpg [ 74.82 KiB | Viewed 26252 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 3:57 am 
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It seems that the current economic crisis has also taken its toll on this forum. Am I wrong or did I notice a recession in the number of messages posted recently ? :-)
Anyway, I have a question for the forum experts.
So the Yao celestial crown is exclusive to the Yao, with its very special sun motives. But if it is so, I wonder why we can find the very similar motives on the bronze drums of the Miao, the Shu and may be also other minorities.
What puzzles me even more, it is that this kind of bronze drum is not mentioned in the exhaustive Pourret's book on the Yao. So, how come the Yao, whose celestial crown has very close motives, are not using these kind of motives on their drums or even this special kind of bronze drum when, on the other hand, other minorities, that don't have these kind of crowns, do use bronze drums with the related sun motives ?
Thanks for your answers
Nicolas


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 Post subject: Yao crowns
PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 2:34 am 
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To add to the forum library here are two crowns recently added to my collection.


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Crw.Yao.10.1_full.jpg
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Crw.Yao.10.1_panel.jpg
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Crw.Yao.10.1_panel_detail.jpg
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Crw.Yao.10.1_crown_top.jpg
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Crw.Yao.10.1_crown_base.jpg
Crw.Yao.10.1_crown_base.jpg [ 81.08 KiB | Viewed 23347 times ]
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