Pam
I am glad the forum finally turned friendly and allowed you to post this interesting piece.
Yes, as Iain says, the central part of the textile look like 4 of the panels usually used on a festival coat - for a man or a woman - or, but usually a bit narrower, for an over skirt. A skirt would probably have a piece of plain indigo fabric at the top (but not the bottom) from which the flying panels would hang. It is unusual to see these panels stitched together to make a solid textile rather than falling separately and allowing considerable movement when worn.
I cannot recall having seen a textile quite in the style of your textile especially with added wax resist. The Miao who make the silk felt applique coats and skirts do also do wax resist and it is an important part of the costume and also used for banners. Again, as Iain says, the aprons worn as part of every-day costume by the women are usually squares worn en-point. The addition of chicken feathers is a very usual decoration in the region (and chickens are often shown in embroidery.)
If it has been made for a shaman it might be a piece to spread out as more of a cloth. Unfortunately the epithet 'shaman' can be frequently used and may or may not be true. Unless it has actually been collected when being used it is difficult to ever prove it.
This may be one of those textiles that we have to remember and hope to spot in illustrations or in the field in the future.
I am going to add some photos taken in May 2005 at Yangweng village of Bajie township, Sandu county, Guizhou province of some Miao women wearing festival coats and dancing with Miao men dressed in buffalo costumes and as women. No shaman. I am also showing the every-day costume worn under the festival coats which includes an apron. (I have a set of the everyday costume except the beautiful burnished indigo shorts. I regret so much that I did not overide my concern for the modesty of the girl to buy the shorts as well!)
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File comment: Miao festival dance with men wearing bull costume, men dressed as women and women in full festival wear, Yangweng village of Bajie township, Sandu county, Guizhou province 2005

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File comment: Miao women in festival dress dancing Yangweng village of Bajie township, Sandu county, Guizhou province 2005

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File comment: Two Miao women wearing festival dress Yangweng village of Bajie township, Sandu county, Guizhou province

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File comment: Miao every-day cosutme worn under festival coat, Yangweng village of Bajie township, Sandu county, Guizhou province

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File comment: detail of Miao apron, Yangweng village of Bajie township, Sandu county, Guizhou province

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_________________ Pamela http://www.tribaltextiles.infoon-line tribal textiles resource
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