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 Post subject: Old Palambang TAPIS
PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 10:08 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 30, 2007 11:52 am
Posts: 72
Location: france
Bonjour à tous

Again on this forum to have your opinionn about a nice sarong from Sumatra I have got on the net. I think it is an old TAPIS, ceremonial skirt from Palambong area.
Embroideries are very remarkable. They are made of metallic threads. Can it be gold ?

Cordialement

louis


Attachments:
palambang-tapis-01w.jpg
palambang-tapis-01w.jpg [ 135.4 KiB | Viewed 3715 times ]
palambang tapis 02.JPG
palambang tapis 02.JPG [ 279.26 KiB | Viewed 3718 times ]
palambang tapis 03.JPG
palambang tapis 03.JPG [ 336.14 KiB | Viewed 3718 times ]
palambang tapis 04.JPG
palambang tapis 04.JPG [ 303.03 KiB | Viewed 3718 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: Old Palambang TAPIS
PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 11:51 am 
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Joined: Sat May 09, 2009 1:01 am
Posts: 246
Location: Japan
Louis, This tapis is from the Lampung area of south Sumatra and not from Palembang. The metal wrapped threads are applied by couching which is the norm in Lampung. Tapis from Palembang usually have the gold threads woven in as supplementary weft. Sequins are common on Lampung tapis but I don't remember ever seeing them on textiles from Palembang. The threads in your textile look more like silver than gold but perhaps that is just the way the light reflects off of them. A very nice textile, thanks for sharing it with us.

Best regards


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 Post subject: Re: Old Palambang TAPIS
PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 9:49 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 30, 2007 11:52 am
Posts: 72
Location: france
Bonjour Mac

Thank you for the precision. There is an old label on the back of the cloth that says it was a "palambang tapis", but I beleive you about the Lampung origin. I'll have a look in the litterature and maps to see where is Lampung area. I would like to see photographs of women wearing this kind of sarong , and to know what was the entier costume and on which circumstances such magnificient dressing were used.
The aspect of the threads are relly gold, this is just the picture that is not so good (it is really very difficult to have a good rendering of the golden aspect). So is it really gold ? It is very bright without any sign of oxydation. I think the "golden" threads are made of cotton with a thin leaf of gold wrappen over it....The little squares and rectangles in pink red seem to be made of silk, maybe dyed with a cocchineal dying.

Cordialement

Louis


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 Post subject: Re: Old Palambang TAPIS
PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 12:05 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2006 9:52 pm
Posts: 22
Location: sydney
Hi Louis

Mac is spot on about this being from Lampung. In another thread (on palepai) on this forum I listed some books that might help you locate it further. From those (especially Sinuraya & Wahjuningsih 2005), this textile is identifiable as a tapis pucuk rebung distinguished by the long triangles of gold-wrapped thread. These authors identify the origin of their examples as south and central Lampung.

Your tapis is unusual because it has what looks to me like Lampungic script, visible on your third photograph inbetween the larger curled motifs. Heres a link to lampungic script for comparison:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File: ... Script.jpg

Cheers

Chris


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