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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 7:18 am 
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Joined: Sat May 09, 2009 1:01 am
Posts: 246
Location: Japan
Hi all,

Inspired by Lesley Pullen's recent post "Jambi Wedding Attire" in which the bride was Minangkabau, I thought I would post a Minangkabau sarong that recently joined my collection. In Lesley's lovely photo of the wedding party the bride and other women on her right are wearing Minangkabau sarongs with the kapala or head of the textile prominently displayed in the front.

The vertical design elements placed in the center of the kapala, between the horizontally placed triangular tumpal patterns on either side, are a distinguishing characteristic of Minangkabau sarongs. Varying from one, two or numerous narrow bands, these vertically oriented patterns are a hallmark of Minangkabau sarong design. Numerous, simple, vertical bands seem to be characteristic of more recent design trends and one or two wide, intricate bands seem to indicate older preferences. The brocade embellishment is laid over an intricate plaid, a basic design element found throughout the Malay world. The badan or body of the textile has overall, discontinuous supplementary weft, floral patterns placed in the plaid grid, a feature found only on the highest quality sarongs.

As there aren't many Minangkabau textiles on the forum I hope other members will add to this post and share textiles from their collections. I would be especially interested in Minangkabau textiles with ikat motifs which no longer seem to be produced but were found in several areas of Minangkabau in the distant past.

Best regards


Attachments:
Silk and Gold Brocade Sarong, Minangkabau DSCN0367  Jan.jpg
Silk and Gold Brocade Sarong, Minangkabau DSCN0367 Jan.jpg [ 411.39 KiB | Viewed 3988 times ]
Silk and Gold Brocade, Minangkabau DSCN0370 Jan.jpg
Silk and Gold Brocade, Minangkabau DSCN0370 Jan.jpg [ 298.74 KiB | Viewed 3988 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 3:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2003 6:34 pm
Posts: 393
Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
Nice sarong MAC! The Minangkabau area is of interest to me, having travelled there in the past. Not only are textiles beautiful, but the architecture is quite unusual- homes and some larger buildings have soaring points on the roof gables. These are mimicked in the women's ceremonial headdresses.

I have recently acquired two matching end fragments from what was probably a 'selandang', or shouldercloth. The similarity of some of the motifs to Lao weaving motifs is quite surprising, however I was able to find a catalog in my library that had similar textiles on the covers: Fabled Cloths of Minangkabau from a show at the Santa Barbara Museum of Art in 1991. According to the descriptions inside, these pieces can be traced to specific villages based on the techniques used in the weaving. Mine would be from Padang Magek and is likely 19thc. It is not as complex in design as the ones shown, but does include the wide band with the complex diamond motifs. It also utilizes silk for all colors but indigo, which is cotton- this is also the foundation of one of the cover pieces. In keeping with most Minangkabau selandang and headcloths I have seen, this would have comprised two long panels, sewn together, of about 19"/50cm in width. All colors appear to be from natural dyes, even the green. I am just showing images for one end: the other is the same.


Attachments:
TTF-TISA155A_Overall.jpg
TTF-TISA155A_Overall.jpg [ 181.64 KiB | Viewed 3975 times ]
TTF-TISA155A_Detail.jpg
TTF-TISA155A_Detail.jpg [ 199.28 KiB | Viewed 3975 times ]
TTF-TISA155A_Detail_2.jpg
TTF-TISA155A_Detail_2.jpg [ 195.75 KiB | Viewed 3975 times ]

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Susan Stem

http://www.tribaltrappings.com
http://tribaltrappings.blogspot.com/
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 3:30 am 
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Joined: Sat May 09, 2009 1:01 am
Posts: 246
Location: Japan
Susan, Thanks for posting your lovely textiles. The weaving is really fine. At their peak the Minangkabau produced some of the finest songkets found in Indonesia, especially the old pieces using bast fibers.

Here is another textile that I think is from the Minang but is rather different from the normal image of their textiles that comes to mind. First it is hand spun cotton and although it is two panels joined together they are extremely narrow. Dimensions are 238 x 70 cen. so each panel is only 35 cen. wide, just over half of the width that can easily be woven on a backstrap loom. I believe the Minang have used frame looms for a long time and their weaving tradition and equipment was cutting edge as they had access to the latest technology and materials through extensive trade and outside contact. I am therefor puzzled by this very narrow textile of somewhat uneven, though fine, hand spun cotton. It was probably used as a ceremonial shoulder cloth.

The textile has sophisticated brocade patterns in red cotton (perhaps trade thread) and metallic thread. The green thread used in the plaid appears to be silk. It also has what appears to be a hand made lace border attached. Another forum member suggested that the textile may have been cut down in size, perhaps to remove damage, but this doesn't seem to be the case as there appear to be selvages where the two panels are joined. I wonder if you or other members have seen or have textiles similar to this piece, especially in such a narrow width. Does anyone have any info on where precisely this textile might have been made? I would guess the textile was made around 1900.

Any help on pinning this textile down would be greatly appreciated.

Best regards


Attachments:
Shoulder Cloth, Cotton, Silk and Gold 238 x 69 cen.jpg
Shoulder Cloth, Cotton, Silk and Gold 238 x 69 cen.jpg [ 431.63 KiB | Viewed 3958 times ]
Shoulder Cloth, Cotton, Silk, Gold End Panel UP 2014-02-03.jpg
Shoulder Cloth, Cotton, Silk, Gold End Panel UP 2014-02-03.jpg [ 266.53 KiB | Viewed 3958 times ]
Shoulder Cloth, Cotton, Silk, Gold End UP  2014-02-03.jpg
Shoulder Cloth, Cotton, Silk, Gold End UP 2014-02-03.jpg [ 389.81 KiB | Viewed 3958 times ]
Shoulder Cloth, Cotton, Silk, Gold UP  2014-02-03.jpg
Shoulder Cloth, Cotton, Silk, Gold UP 2014-02-03.jpg [ 444.34 KiB | Viewed 3958 times ]
Shoulder Cloth, Cotton, Silk, Gold Threads  2014-02-03.jpg
Shoulder Cloth, Cotton, Silk, Gold Threads 2014-02-03.jpg [ 232.75 KiB | Viewed 3958 times ]
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 3:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2003 6:34 pm
Posts: 393
Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
Hi MAC-
What a curious cloth! The color combination is most unusual. I went back to my catalog mentioned above and found some other 'selandang'/shouldercloths that were similarly narrow, so that is not as unusual as one might think. The narrow width seemed to not be related to age- some were early 19th century and others late 19th century and early 20th. Nor was location common to the narrow ones. There were also two others shown that had a similar layout, but nothing exactly like yours. The red borders seem to be common to many of the 'selandang'. The metallic bobbin lace border is often seen on Minang textiles- I saw it being made in the village of Koto Gadang outside of Bukittinggi. If I find out more, I will let you know.

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Susan Stem

http://www.tribaltrappings.com
http://tribaltrappings.blogspot.com/


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 10:37 am 
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Joined: Sat May 09, 2009 1:01 am
Posts: 246
Location: Japan
Thanks Susan,

I have a copy of the exhibition catalog you mentioned in the mail and it should be here any day now. Thanks for the info and I look forward to reading it.


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