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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 4:06 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 3:18 am
Posts: 53
Location: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Hi everyone, I was wondering if anyone here knows if Acheh rusak is still being made in Acheh? Are the existing pieces from the 20th century rare? Thanks


Last edited by adline76 on Mon Jun 03, 2013 4:10 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 3:33 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2003 6:34 pm
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Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
Hi Adline-
I'm no expert on batik, but I always thought these were from Java, specifically Yogya. I'm not aware of batik from Aceh, tho Jambi down the coast is famous for batik. Do you have a picture?

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Susan Stem

http://www.tribaltrappings.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 4:09 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 3:18 am
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Location: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Hi Susan! Thanks for your reply. Whoops made a mistake! It isn't parang rusak, which I know is a Javanese batik motif. It's just Acheh rusak. Like this one here:

http://artsearch.nga.gov.au/Detail.cfm?IRN=98433

Shall try to edit and correct my earlier post :)


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 Post subject: PARANG Rusak
PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 9:43 am 
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Hi Adline and Susan,

The Javanese definitely have a parang rusak batik motif. De Batak have a padang rusak motif. It probably is inspired by an Acehnese textile type. I don't know for sure which name the Acehnese gave to the textile type, but I thought it was padang or parang rusak. I didn't respond to Adline's question because I haven't made a thorough study of Acehnese textiles. However, I was there a few years ago and visited a couple of weaving workshops. I didn't see anything that resembled the old Acehnese textiles that are found in museums -- including the parang/padang rusak. Apparently the Tsunami has wreaked havoc (not surprisingly) with many textile operations. I didn't see a single, original Acehnese backstrap loom. Definitely felt a hunger to go back and explore the situation more thoroughly, but I haven't managed to get that far, yet.

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Sandra Niessen

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 2:19 pm 
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Hi all and especially Sandra

I just opened 'Legacy in cloth' by happenstance at page 159, with a photo - fig SR 6.8 of Church Assistants. Silindung? c. 187301881. Photograph by L.I. Nommensen. Photoarchives VEM 203-0955. In the photo comment you mention
Quote:
"....It is not clear which kinds of cloth (a PADANG RUSAK?) have been used for sashes and headcloths."
I certainly thought of the Aceh silk ikat imported by the well-to-do inspiring Batak weaving as soon as opened the link Adline gave us.

You also referred to Catalogue 5.1 (a lovely PADANG RUSAK NA MARSUNGSANG p 293) in the KIT collection and also depicted in Jasper and Pirngadie 1912, plate 22 facing p 264) you give design info (p292):
Quote:
"- padang rusak (Batak): a certain beautiful Achenese cloth Van der Tuuk 1861:326; and Acehnese shawl Niewenhuys 1962:51. 1914a:50, n12 provides further reflections on the name padang rusak. In Java the name refers to a once-exclusive batik pattern not at all resembling the chevron e.g. Van Hut 2001:170,171."


Adline, if you want the full references cited in 'Legacy in cloth: Batak textiles of Indonesia' and don't have access to a copy I can look them up for you although, of course, your original question was in relation to whether the cloth was still being made in Aceh today! I think the answer re the destructive effect of the Tsunami sadly suggests that 20th century examples are probably rare and lack of looms suggests little chance of weaving in the 21st century!

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Pamela

http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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 Post subject: parang/padang Rusak
PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 10:56 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 14, 2006 7:18 am
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thanks for your wonderful diligence, Pamela. It is true that my information came from Van der Tuuk (end of the 19th century) and Jasper and Pirngadie (beginning of the 20th century). It is important to note that this is an ikat motif and not a batik motif. It seems to hold no relation at all (in terms of design) to the batik motif. Somebody has to write the history of Acehnese textiles. Any takers?

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Sandra Niessen

www.bataktextiles.com
http://bataktextiles.blogspot.com/


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