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PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 2:12 pm 
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Further to information on an exhibition in Taiwan earlier this year - see http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... php?t=2305 - I am very pleased to be able to share with the forum news of a new book of the same name "Recovering Lost Woven Treasures: Translation and Transformation" self published by the amazingly talented and committed weaver, Tsai Yushan, ISBN-13: 978-957-41-9248-9.

Yushan wrote the book to record more than 10 years of research and exhibitions focused on the textiles of the aboriginal tribes of Taiwan. The book is bilingual (Chinese and English). Yushan has said that if forum friends wish to purchase it they can find it at Shung Ye Museum of Formosan Aborigines/ Taipei or they may contact her directly via this Tsai Yushan contact form. She only has 450 copies to sell. The book has a total 152 color pages and costs around 30S$ in Taiwan.

Yushan has sent me images of a few pages from the book which I am posting here.

In Yushan's research she has painstakingly analysed the weave structure or embroidery stitches on old textiles, charted them and, from these charts, recreated the textiles. I am totally in awe of her patience and dedication!


Attachments:
Cover-0907w.jpg
Cover-0907w.jpg [ 60.39 KiB | Viewed 6640 times ]
Tsou-w.jpg
Tsou-w.jpg [ 52.66 KiB | Viewed 6640 times ]
list06Paiwan-w.jpg
list06Paiwan-w.jpg [ 85.34 KiB | Viewed 6640 times ]
01w.jpg
01w.jpg [ 97.86 KiB | Viewed 6640 times ]

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 9:20 pm 
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I received a copy of 'Recovering Lost Woven Treasures' this week and today enjoyed sitting down and reading/viewing it from cover to cover.

The textile photos are of a very fine quality. The sort of photo that you touch the page to feel the textile as you can see each thread in it! I also appreciated the old sepia photos of the different aboriginal tribes from the collection of Shung Ye Museum of Formosan Aborigines which are used in the second, major part, of the book where Yushan briefly describes the textiles of each of the 14 tribes and shows some of her research pieces of the woven or embroidered textiles of each tribe.

The first part of the book has essays in English, French, Chinese and Japanese. There is an outline of Yushan's textile background her 'journey as a weaver'. I think the essence of the book is summed up by Yushan (p28) when she says:
Quote:
"Would you like to know how the aboriginal Taiwanese wove their beautiful fabrics? By decoding their methods today, we can preserve their precious lost arts and skills. In addition, through innovations in interpretation, we can present a new face of these arts for the eyes of the world to see"

The last section of the book is a List of Illustrations and sources of materials for analysis. This is laid out tribe by tribe and has a detail photo and a complete textile thumbnail of, I assume, all the textiles which were in the exhibition of the same name: http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... php?t=2305 - an amazing body of incredibly fine work researched and created by Yushan. Many of the pieces are shown enlarged in the preceding tribal descriptions in the book.

When I mentioned to Yushan that I proposed adding a few comments to this thread she sent me some additional photos to share with the forum which I attach here.

The first photos are Yushan's research swatches based on the collection of Yami vests in the Institute of Textiles and Clothing at Fu Jen Catholic University where she is Associate Professor.

The second and third photos are Yushan working on a research (testing sample) of a Tinguian blanket (Philippine) pattern. She transformed the Tinguian blanket pattern with additional shell decoration (Heart of ocean) and put it with the Yami tribe pieces, due to the colour and it can be seen (with shells) on page 66 of the book ("present(ing) a new face of these arts for the eyes of the world to see").

The book is, indeed, 'My Journey as a Weaver' as stated on the back cover of the book with the focus on what Yushan refers to (page 36) as 'Stage 3: 1999 - 2011. Studied Taiwanese aboriginal textile-making skills and the pattern associated with different tribes.' It is both presenting the results of this research and an amazing testimony to her very determined efforts and very finely honed technical skills. I am in awe!


Attachments:
File comment: a range of research tests based on Yami vests in the Institute of Textiles and Clothing at Fu Jen Catholic University
PC161633-2w.jpg
PC161633-2w.jpg [ 92.58 KiB | Viewed 6580 times ]
File comment: from Yushan's research - (testing sample) on a Tinguian blanket (Philippine) pattern
PA021527-1w.jpg
PA021527-1w.jpg [ 87.57 KiB | Viewed 6580 times ]
File comment: from Yushan's research - (testing sample) on a Tinguian blanket (Philippine) pattern
PA021521w.jpg
PA021521w.jpg [ 84.9 KiB | Viewed 6580 times ]

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 4:46 pm 
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I meant to comment on this earlier and perhaps others already have but the Tinguian blanket (Philippine) pattern looks like a piece of OP ART right out of the '60's! Like something by Bridgit Riley or Vasarely. Does anyone know the origin of that pattern in the Phillipines? It seems so unlike other tribal patterns.



Pamela wrote:
I received a copy of 'Recovering Lost Woven Treasures' this week and today enjoyed sitting down and reading/viewing it from cover to cover.

The textile photos are of a very fine quality. The sort of photo that you touch the page to feel the textile as you can see each thread in it! I also appreciated the old sepia photos of the different aboriginal tribes from the collection of Shung Ye Museum of Formosan Aborigines which are used in the second, major part, of the book where Yushan briefly describes the textiles of each of the 14 tribes and shows some of her research pieces of the woven or embroidered textiles of each tribe.

The first part of the book has essays in English, French, Chinese and Japanese. There is an outline of Yushan's textile background her 'journey as a weaver'. I think the essence of the book is summed up by Yushan (p28) when she says:
Quote:
"Would you like to know how the aboriginal Taiwanese wove their beautiful fabrics? By decoding their methods today, we can preserve their precious lost arts and skills. In addition, through innovations in interpretation, we can present a new face of these arts for the eyes of the world to see"

The last section of the book is a List of Illustrations and sources of materials for analysis. This is laid out tribe by tribe and has a detail photo and a complete textile thumbnail of, I assume, all the textiles which were in the exhibition of the same name: http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... php?t=2305 - an amazing body of incredibly fine work researched and created by Yushan. Many of the pieces are shown enlarged in the preceding tribal descriptions in the book.

When I mentioned to Yushan that I proposed adding a few comments to this thread she sent me some additional photos to share with the forum which I attach here.

The first photos are Yushan's research swatches based on the collection of Yami vests in the Institute of Textiles and Clothing at Fu Jen Catholic University where she is Associate Professor.

The second and third photos are Yushan working on a research (testing sample) of a Tinguian blanket (Philippine) pattern. She transformed the Tinguian blanket pattern with additional shell decoration (Heart of ocean) and put it with the Yami tribe pieces, due to the colour and it can be seen (with shells) on page 66 of the book ("present(ing) a new face of these arts for the eyes of the world to see").

The book is, indeed, 'My Journey as a Weaver' as stated on the back cover of the book with the focus on what Yushan refers to (page 36) as 'Stage 3: 1999 - 2011. Studied Taiwanese aboriginal textile-making skills and the pattern associated with different tribes.' It is both presenting the results of this research and an amazing testimony to her very determined efforts and very finely honed technical skills. I am in awe!

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 3:12 pm 
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Yushan was in touch with me today with New Year wishes and attached a magazine - Centered on Taipei, Dec 2012/January 2013, vol 13, Issue 4 - which includes an article of an interview with her. I have managed to detach the cover of the magazine and the three pages of article which I attach here in PDF format for forum members to download. I have printed the cover and scanned it to attach here (unfortunately lowering the quality which remains fine in the PDF file).

The information on the magazine cover image is:

Quote:
Cover image Courtesy of Professor Tsai Yushan.
An original male leg-covering of Puyuma tribe that Professor Tsai used for analysis (part of the collection at Fu Jen Catholic University).


Attachments:
File comment: Article by Prof Tsai yushan in Centered on Taipei, Dec 2012/January 2013, vol 13, Issue 4
Quest-for-tradition.pdf [1.26 MiB]
Downloaded 337 times
File comment: Cover of 'Centered on Taipei, Dec 2012/January 2013, vol 13, Issue 4' showing Puyuma male leg-covering
cover-w.jpg
cover-w.jpg [ 99.48 KiB | Viewed 6116 times ]

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 10:26 pm 
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John

In response to your question on 26 Dec 2012
Quote:
"I meant to comment on this earlier and perhaps others already have but the Tinguian blanket (Philippine) pattern looks like a piece of OP ART right out of the '60's! Like something by Bridgit Riley or Vasarely. Does anyone know the origin of that pattern in the Phillipines? It seems so unlike other tribal patterns."

You might like to have a look at more of these Tinguian blankets on Kathleen Forance Johnson's travlinweaver.com website http://travlinweaver.com/philippines.html There is a slide show with many other examples.

There is a fascinating article that Kathleen with Tsai Yushan wrote on Tinguian (or Itneg as they refer to themselves) blankets in the Fall 2011 edition of the Textile Society of America Newsletter (Vol 23 Number 3). I am trying to see if there is a possibility of the article being published here.

The original style of blanket is, I think, a binakul blanket. Kathleen was attracted as you are by the optical illusions. She also felt there was something oddly familiar about the patterns reminiscent of early American coverlets which she (a weaver) had studied - patterns from the 1700s-1800s.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 9:37 pm 
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I am very pleased to report that Prof Tsai Yushan has very kindly obtained permission for us to publish here the article "A Weaver Looks at Tinguian Blankets" by Kathleen Forance Johnson with Yushan Tsai originally published in the Textile Society of America Newsletter Fall 2011 edition (Vol 23 Number 3). I attach the PDF file of the article here. The complete copy of the Newsletter can be found on the website of the TSA at http://textilesocietyofamerica.org/news/newsletters/ At the end of the article see the amazing chart of the weaving produced by Yushan from which she wove the example shown in her book and which so attracted John.

I found the article fascinating to read and thoroughly commend it to you.


Attachments:
File comment: slightly battered print off of the TSA article "A Weaver Looks at Tinguian Blankets" from TSA Fall 2011 Newsletter
TSA_nwsl-fll11-Tinguian-cvr.jpg
TSA_nwsl-fll11-Tinguian-cvr.jpg [ 96.92 KiB | Viewed 5966 times ]
File comment: "A Weaver Looks at Tinguian Blankets" by Kathleen Forance Johnson with Yushan Tsai from Fall 2011 Newsletter of the TSA
TSA_newsl-fall11-Tinguian-.pdf [807.24 KiB]
Downloaded 353 times

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 2:21 pm 
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Just to take us back to where this thread started - with Tsai Yushan's amazing detective work on studying textiles and then reproducing them on her loom - the focus of her recently published book "Recovering Lost Woven Treasures: Translation and Transformation" I attach some photos she has sent me of her working samples based on Tinguian textiles from the Philippines.

0965 and 0938 are of part of the process for the Tinguian-based fabric that is in the book and shown in my second post on this thread. Yushan comments that you can see 'a very dense density with the thin linen warp threads'.

Pic. 0849 is her woven testing sample with another Tinguian pattern (the front side). Pic. 0852 is the same testing sample (reverse side.)

Pic. 0900 is her 'transformation testing with a Tinguian pattern'. She has not had a chance to see the real fabrics yet, but she hopes one day she will be able to do so. Yushan notes that the Tinguian weavings are different from Taiwan aboriginal's fabrics. She has also said that she would be interested to see images of other Tinguian blankets which forum members may have.


Attachments:
File comment: part of the process for the Tinguian-based fabric that is in the book showing density with the thin linen warp threads
PICT0965w.jpg
PICT0965w.jpg [ 107.23 KiB | Viewed 5917 times ]
File comment: part of the process for the Tinguian-based fabric that is in the book showing density with the thin linen warp threads
PICT0938w.jpg
PICT0938w.jpg [ 97.34 KiB | Viewed 5917 times ]
File comment: Frong side of Yushan's sample of another Tinguian pattern
PICT0849w.jpg
PICT0849w.jpg [ 101.76 KiB | Viewed 5917 times ]
File comment: Reverse side of Yushan's sample of another Tinguian pattern
PICT0852w.jpg
PICT0852w.jpg [ 92.53 KiB | Viewed 5917 times ]
File comment: Tsai Yushan's testing piece based on a Tinguian weaving
PICT0900w.jpg
PICT0900w.jpg [ 99.02 KiB | Viewed 5917 times ]

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