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tribaltextiles.info • View topic - The Yi People's Ritual Garment: Longpo Yi from Yunnan, China

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 1:16 am 
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File comment: cape, said to be made by Yi people in Yunnan province
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File comment: the back of the cape
CET273-3.jpg
CET273-3.jpg [ 113.78 KiB | Viewed 10631 times ]
File comment: detail of wool embroidery around the collar
CET273-2.jpg
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 11:18 am 
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Hi Chris

I find this style of garment stunning! I remembered that there was a whole thread jumping off from this style - but, what a hunt to find it as the search engine cannot cope with just 'Yi' ..... but I did!!! http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... php?t=1056 It also contains a link to another Yi thread with similar textile.

Re your previous post - "Malipo Yi/Flowery Lolo" - Martin has found a lovely photo gallery of photos of Tianpeng Market taken by Ludwig Max Brinckmann which includes the clothes being worn...now, get your 'eye in' to spot them...! https://plus.google.com/photos/11332723 ... banner=pwa

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 11:41 am 
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great that you found those earlier cape postings Pamela, that thread is very informative.

...and that photo gallery absolutely nails the "Flowery Lolo" jackets! Tianpeng area in Yunnan!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 9:34 pm 
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 8:39 am 
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Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
Thank you to all who have been contributing to this thread- I've found it very interesting. Regarding Rachel's question about the difference in the two textiles from the same general area, it is a conundrum that will probably not be answered until more research and writing is done on the various subgroups of the Yi peoples. These may not both be from the Hualao people- if my understanding of Wu-zhh's presentation is correct, the term "Longpo Yi" refers to the garment, not an ethnic group. Plus he did not say where the second example came from. These pieces are not even shown in the Chinese book "The Costumes and Adornments of Chinese Yi Nationality Picture Album", which makes the Yi appear to be a single cohesive ethnic group with different regional 'styles' based on location. They ignore the subgroups, and pertinent to this thread, do not even mention Malipo County as a place.

I also had one of the examples with the plaid body and very graphic black and white appliqued designs. I do find it strange that these are considered older than the patchwork garments, as they seem to have little wear by comparison. (photos below)

Also, regarding the Lolo outfits shown, there are examples that have overtones of the patchwork on the ritual garments- I saw the set below in a private collection in Kaili and have included it below to compare to the others shown.

I will say that one subgroup that has been researched, and was the subject of an exhibition at the Burke Museum of Natural History and Culture at the University of Washington in 2000, is the Nuoso. The catalog is titled Mountain Patterns and was done by Stevan Harrell, Bamo Qubumo and Ma Erzi.


Attachments:
Mail-Guizhou-textiles16.jpg
Mail-Guizhou-textiles16.jpg [ 335.08 KiB | Viewed 10568 times ]
Yi Cape1.jpg
Yi Cape1.jpg [ 299.68 KiB | Viewed 10568 times ]
Yi Cape2.jpg
Yi Cape2.jpg [ 350.46 KiB | Viewed 10568 times ]
Yi Cape-detail1.jpg
Yi Cape-detail1.jpg [ 266.03 KiB | Viewed 10568 times ]
Yi Cape-detail2.jpg
Yi Cape-detail2.jpg [ 247.13 KiB | Viewed 10568 times ]
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 5:32 pm 
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Location: Kaili, Guizhou, China
Hi thank you to all. I am so sorry for my late reply. Susan is right, regarding Rachel's question about difference in the two textiles from the same general area, it is a conundrum, but I would say my opinions after indagated and researched carefully:
1. These ritual garments made and used originally by the Hua Luo (Flowery Lo) who are a subgroup of Yi peoples, they live mainly in Mabeng, Yongli, Zhewa village, etc, Malipo county, now also live in Funing (includes Tianpeng town), Guangnan, Xichou county, etc, Yunnan, China;
2. Originally the shape of this garment was stipulated but the ornaments and workmanships were not, so there are two even more styles because of made by different makers;
3. This ritual garment is wore by the druidess who preside and dance in the exequies. She was elected by all villagers then She needed to make a new ritual garment herself and expended about one year;
4. This ritual garment had been diffused some other area of Yi peoples, so there are more styles now;
5. Regarding the depictions of this ritual garment please refer the English book: 'Writing with Thread', and Chinese discourses: 'Research on Primitive Religion Costume of Yunnan Nationalities' http://www.doc88.com/p-801299013056.html 'Stomach Burial and Flowery Lo People's Costume' http://wuxizazhi.cnki.net/Article/HXRW199004032.html etc.

Please excuse me for my bad English. Thanks again.

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Email to me: wu-zhh@hotmail.com


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:46 pm 
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Attachments:
File comment: SHAMAN'S ROBE: Patchwork on indigo-dyed cotton shaman's 'butterfly' robe, Yi people, Malipo, Yunnan Province, South West China c.1940
Yi-shaman-2w.jpg
Yi-shaman-2w.jpg [ 96.04 KiB | Viewed 10522 times ]
File comment: SHAMAN'S ROBE: Patchwork on indigo-dyed cotton shaman's 'butterfly' robe, Yi people, Malipo, Yunnan Province, South West China c.1940 - detail
Yi-costume-det.jpg
Yi-costume-det.jpg [ 111.26 KiB | Viewed 10522 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 5:17 am 
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File comment: Yi Ritual Garment in private collection
Mail-Guizhou-textiles18.jpg
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 2:35 pm 
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Very interesting thread fellow members. I have once seen a old Yi patchwork tunic specifically with different shades of brown. It was definitely authentic, but I have no more information. I am very fond of the Napo Yi costumes, and appreciate the images posted by Pamela. There are excellent illustration in the Guangxi: Colorful Costumes book.

On a side note, Lolo comes from the Chinese 猡猡 luoluo (second tone) which was a highly pejorative Han Chinese term for the Yi in Sichuan- Yunnan- Guizhou plateau. I mention this not to label anyone as politically incorrect, just because I thought you might find it interesting.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 10:53 am 
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Attachments:
File comment: JPG 2 - apron of unknown provenance, painted wax batik on silk embroidery
2-Yi-or-Miao-apron-front-w.jpg
2-Yi-or-Miao-apron-front-w.jpg [ 94.77 KiB | Viewed 10326 times ]
File comment: JPG 4 -Bailing Miao quilt cover with similar painted batik birds
4-Bailing-Miao-coverlet-w.jpg
4-Bailing-Miao-coverlet-w.jpg [ 96.96 KiB | Viewed 10326 times ]
File comment: JPG 5 - mitered construction of the apron border visible on the back view of the apron
5-back-Miao-or-Yi-ap-w.jpg
5-back-Miao-or-Yi-ap-w.jpg [ 91.37 KiB | Viewed 10326 times ]
File comment: JPG 6 - Nuosu Yi jacket with old ribbon bands and a central indent focus
6-Nuosu-Yi-w.jpg
6-Nuosu-Yi-w.jpg [ 88.4 KiB | Viewed 10326 times ]
File comment: JPG 7 - Mile Luxi Yi outfit with old silk ribbon bands
7Yi-Mile-Luxi-with-w.jpg
7Yi-Mile-Luxi-with-w.jpg [ 87.27 KiB | Viewed 10326 times ]
File comment: JPG 8 - Bai outfit - (Minority Nationalities Costumes and Ornaments in Yunnan 2002 p. 80 ISBN 978-7-80586-845-5 In Chinese)
8--Bai-w.jpg
8--Bai-w.jpg [ 73.13 KiB | Viewed 10326 times ]
File comment: JPG 9 Bai - (Minority Natiionalities Costumes and Ornaments in Yunnan p. 77)
9-Bai-w.jpg
9-Bai-w.jpg [ 98.68 KiB | Viewed 10326 times ]

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Pamela

http://www.tribaltextiles.info
on-line tribal textiles resource


Last edited by Pamela on Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:16 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 3:25 pm 
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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:40 am 
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