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PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 2:22 pm 
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Location: Denver
Hello All - I wanted to share pictures of a Philippine loincoth that I recently acquired. MAC was kind enough to help me identify it but I can't seem to find his attribution :oops: I'd love to see comments and opinions on it. Its dimensions are 141.5 in (359.4 cm) by 9.5 in (24.1 cm)
Cheers

Warren


Attachments:
File comment: Overall view
loin cloth 1.JPG
loin cloth 1.JPG [ 59.6 KiB | Viewed 14533 times ]
File comment: End close view
loin cloth 2.JPG
loin cloth 2.JPG [ 71.79 KiB | Viewed 14533 times ]
File comment: End Detail
loin cloth 4.JPG
loin cloth 4.JPG [ 77.52 KiB | Viewed 14533 times ]
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 10:36 am 
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I know zip ;-) about loincloths, but in case you hadn't seen it this post has some excellent comparison examples with similar weft-twining finishing:
http://www.tribaltextiles.info/community/viewtopic.php?t=1086&highlight=loincloth

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 Post subject: Philippine Loincloth
PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 12:14 am 
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Warren, Glad to see you found time to post your loincloth. Did you take new photos? These look bigger and better! Now we can really see what it looks like.

I still believe your loincloth is from one of the areas in Kalinga Prov., Northern Luzon. Probably southwest Kalinga. The strong red, green and yellow colors are typical of Kalinga. I am attaching photos of a Kalinga cape (blanket) for comparison.

I don't remember seeing warp float, woven patterns like yours on Kalinga loincloths. These patterns point more to Ifugao Prov. to the south of Kalinga, where they are used on skirts and blankets (see the Bayaong blanket on your thread ??? Indonesian).

Ifugao textiles are few and far between, especially old ones so I can not say for sure. Your cloth could possibly be from early 20th C. Ifugao. Do the threads seem to be handspun or commercial? A look at the books and more thought is needed. I just don't remember seeing these colors on recent Ifugao textiles.

I will try to dig out and photograph my Kalinga loincloths for comparison.

I will also post a loincloth from Mountain Prov. and one from the Gaddang to the east of Kalinga. The styles are very different.

Best regards, MAC


Attachments:
2010_05 16 # 0040 Philippines, N. Luzon, Kalinga Blanket.JPG
2010_05 16 # 0040 Philippines, N. Luzon, Kalinga Blanket.JPG [ 65.98 KiB | Viewed 14472 times ]
2010_05 16 # 0042 Philippines, N. Luzon, Kalinga Blanket UP-1.JPG
2010_05 16 # 0042 Philippines, N. Luzon, Kalinga Blanket UP-1.JPG [ 43.97 KiB | Viewed 14472 times ]
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 12:23 am 
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Here is the Kankanay loincloth from Mt. Prov., northern Luzon


Attachments:
File comment: The left end panel is the front and the right is the back.
2010 05 22 # 0094  Philippines, N. Luzon, Mt. Prov., Kankanay Man's Loin Cloth.JPG
2010 05 22 # 0094 Philippines, N. Luzon, Mt. Prov., Kankanay Man's Loin Cloth.JPG [ 67.89 KiB | Viewed 14466 times ]
2010_05 22 # 0096 Philippines, N. Luzon, Kankanay Man's loincloth, UP-1.JPG
2010_05 22 # 0096 Philippines, N. Luzon, Kankanay Man's loincloth, UP-1.JPG [ 54.79 KiB | Viewed 14466 times ]
2010_05 22 # 0102 Philippines, N. Luzon, Mt. Prov., Kankanay Man's Loincloth UP-2.JPG
2010_05 22 # 0102 Philippines, N. Luzon, Mt. Prov., Kankanay Man's Loincloth UP-2.JPG [ 79.76 KiB | Viewed 14466 times ]
2010_05 22 # 0103 Philippines, N. Luzon, Mt. Prov., Kankanay Man's Loincloth, Back.JPG
2010_05 22 # 0103 Philippines, N. Luzon, Mt. Prov., Kankanay Man's Loincloth, Back.JPG [ 92.37 KiB | Viewed 14466 times ]
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 Post subject: Gaddang Loincloth
PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 12:33 am 
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The Gaddang are very fond of beads and use them on their skirts. jackets, capes and loincloths, but not on their blankets.


Attachments:
2010_05 16 # 0030 Philippines, N. Luzon, Gaddang Man's Loincloth.JPG
2010_05 16 # 0030 Philippines, N. Luzon, Gaddang Man's Loincloth.JPG [ 65.24 KiB | Viewed 14460 times ]
2010_05 16 # 0035 Philippines, N. Luzon, Gaddang Man's LoinCloth, UP-1.JPG
2010_05 16 # 0035 Philippines, N. Luzon, Gaddang Man's LoinCloth, UP-1.JPG [ 61.48 KiB | Viewed 14460 times ]
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 2:48 pm 
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I have several loincloths in my textile collection but, unfortunately none from the Philippines.

I have had a look through the gorgeous book "Sinaunang Habi: Philippine Ancestral Weave" by Marian Pastor-Roces (see http://www.tribaltextiles.info/bibliogr ... _books.htm for fuller details). I am in no way an expert on textiles from the Philippines but I would hazard a guess that your loincloth is Ifugao. I base that on similarity between the supplemental warp motives in the two side warp stripes which are similar to those in a female wrap-around skirt shown on page 45 of 'Sinaunang Habi'. On pages 148 and 149 are photos of a man, Noel Lagupan from Ifugao wearing a shoulder cloth with similar warp motifs and weaving a loincloth. This is much in shadow in the photo on page 149 but it has the weft twining - albeit in white on a red background - not dissimilar to that shown in your loincloth. I would say that your loincloth is a later version using wool twining. I am afraid that I do not have permission to post images from the book.

Having said that, see http://www.tribaltextiles.info/articles ... Bontoc.htm for a Bontoc textile which is part of Eric Anderson's article on "Northern Luzon highland textiles" http://www.tribaltextiles.info/articles ... xtiles.htm Similar supplemental warp designs appear!!! Both the Ifugao and Bontoc are found in North Luzon so perhaps this, at least, could be a starting point for further research.

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 Post subject: Re: Philippine Loincloth
PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 2:49 pm 
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Location: Denver
MAC wrote:
Warren, Glad to see you found time to post your loincloth. Did you take new photos? These look bigger and better! Now we can really see what it looks like.

I still believe your loincloth is from one of the areas in Kalinga Prov., Northern Luzon. Probably southwest Kalinga. The strong red, green and yellow colors are typical of Kalinga. I am attaching photos of a Kalinga cape (blanket) for comparison.

I don't remember seeing warp float, woven patterns like yours on Kalinga loincloths. These patterns point more to Ifugao Prov. to the south of Kalinga, where they are used on skirts and blankets (see the Bayaong blanket on your thread ??? Indonesian).

Ifugao textiles are few and far between, especially old ones so I can not say for sure. Your cloth could possibly be from early 20th C. Ifugao. Do the threads seem to be handspun or commercial? A look at the books and more thought is needed. I just don't remember seeing these colors on recent Ifugao textiles.

Best regards, MAC


Hi MAC;

Thanks for your informative and timely reply. I'm glad the photos look better, I lightened them up a little as they seemed quite dark when I got ready to post them.

I've taken a loop and examined the threads in the fringe and they appear to me to be commercial as their guage is almost completely uniform. But they are also quite 'hairy' as if they were individually brushed or teased to bring up the nap (if that makes sense). The yarn on the warp float is larger guage and appears to be slightly ravelled to give it more volume.

At a guess I'd bet that it must be newer as the colors are so brilliant, I noticed in the pictures you kindly attached that the older textiles showed signs of wear consistent with age and usage, so unless this was stored under ideal conditions I think it must be newer.

Can you suggest any books that I might get at the library that might help with further investigation on this? The best I have been able to do so far is get black and white photos of loincloths that looked very similar in design. Thanks

Best Regards;

Warren


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 2:55 pm 
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Location: Denver
Pamela wrote:
I have several loincloths in my textile collection but, unfortunately none from the Philippines.

I have had a look through the gorgeous book "Sinaunang Habi: Philippine Ancestral Weave" by Marian Pastor-Roces (see http://www.tribaltextiles.info/bibliogr ... _books.htm for fuller details). I am in no way an expert on textiles from the Philippines but I would hazard a guess that your loincloth is Ifugao. I base that on similarity between the supplemental warp motives in the two side warp stripes which are similar to those in a female wrap-around skirt shown on page 45 of 'Sinaunang Habi'. On pages 148 and 149 are photos of a man, Noel Lagupan from Ifugao wearing a shoulder cloth with similar warp motifs and weaving a loincloth. This is much in shadow in the photo on page 149 but it has the weft twining - albeit in white on a red background - not dissimilar to that shown in your loincloth. I would say that your loincloth is a later version using wool twining. I am afraid that I do not have permission to post images from the book.

Having said that, see http://www.tribaltextiles.info/articles ... Bontoc.htm for a Bontoc textile which is part of Eric Anderson's article on "Northern Luzon highland textiles" http://www.tribaltextiles.info/articles ... xtiles.htm Similar supplemental warp designs appear!!! Both the Ifugao and Bontoc are found in North Luzon so perhaps this, at least, could be a starting point for further research.


Hi Pamela;

Many thanks to you! You anticipated my last statements to MAC and have provided me with a great starting point for further research. Cheers

Best Regards;

Warren


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 Post subject: Philippine Loincloth
PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 3:15 pm 
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Warren, I had a look at the book "Habi" by Marian Roces. Although the loincloth is not clearly visible in the photo of the Ifugao couple, the tufts on the sides of the end panels can be seen. This seems to be a decorative feature unique to Ifugao. So, It looks like your loincloth IS Ifugao and not Kalinga. Judging from the strong colors I would say it is from the first half of the 20th C. as we don't see these same natural colors in recent Ifugao textiles, few as they are. You have a rare and beautiful textile.

Could the green thread used in the weft (twined?) motifs on the end fields possibly be a fiber other than cotton or perhaps be a commercial or imported thread? It looks different than the red and yellow threads. The green seems to be two ply and have a tighter twist than the others. Wondering if it could be an imported wool thread from, say, America?

The warp float, woven patterns and the side tufts make this loincloth Fruit of the Loom from Ifugao!

Best regards, MAC


Last edited by MAC on Thu Jul 01, 2010 7:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 5:24 pm 
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Yes, I also really think it is Ifugao! A book I was fortunate to pick up on my travels (in Thailand at least 6 years ago) "The last Filipino Head Hunters' by David Howard - again see http://www.tribaltextiles.info/bibliogr ... _books.htm for more details - would seem to confirm it. The book has some stunning photos by David Howard of elderly tribes people and there is a section on Ifugao. Page 132 has a group photo with several men wearing loincloths with similar weft twining (with extended side tassels) and the side warp decoration. The main colour of the loincloths is red with black stripes. "Mongit's Ifugao tribe in the village of Tam-an, performed a dance ritual with musicians, celebrating the birth of a child" and the men wore loincloths and similar weave (without apparent weft decoration) shoulder cloths across shoulders and chest.

A nice find!

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 Post subject: Re: Philippine Loincloth
PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 5:47 pm 
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Location: Denver
MAC wrote:
Could the green thread used in the weft (twined?) motifs on the end fields possibly be a fiber other than cotton or perhaps be a commercial or imported thread? It looks different than the red and yellow threads. The green seems to be two ply and have a tighter twist than the others. Wondering if it could be an imported wool thread from, say, America?

The warp float, woven patterns and the side tufts make this loincloth Fruit of the Loom from Ifugao!

Best regards, MAC


Hi MAC;

I looked at the green thread and yes it is 2-ply. I snipped a very small piece off of one end and burned it and it smells very much like wool and the charred end crumbled like wool, so I'm guessing that's what it's likely to be.

Cheers

Warren

p.s. Thank you Pamela, I will try to locate "The Last Filipino Headhunters" by Howard and do some research there.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 8:57 pm 
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Warren

http://www.amazon.com/Last-Filipino-Hea ... 086719507X

new $4.74, used $1.69

I guess mailing will cost more!

There are more Ifuago photos including several with Gem-o, an Ifuago shaman. Photo on page 150 shows him wearing a more ornate version of the loincloth. David Howard's photos in the book are really stunning. See http://www.tribalartasia.com/Tribal%20A ... chive.html for some of the material from the book. Unfortunately no clear shots of Ifuago loincloths but there are some Ifuago. Portfolio 3, 5th image is page 51 and the head (and shoulder cloth) of Gem-o. Portfolio 7, first photo top line, is, I think, Gem-0 wearing quite a raggedly loincloth but hardly possible to make it out. I think, in the book (p148) I can almost see some weft twining (but it might be wishful thinking!

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 9:59 pm 
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See http://www.tribalartasia.com/Tribal%20A ... unter.html

Images from "The last Filipino Head Hunters' by David Howard
1st image 2nd line is Page 150 - the shaman Gem-o showing his loincloth
3rd image 4th line is Page 132 - Ifuago tribe in village of Tam-an..

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 8:45 am 
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I realise that forum members will be getting tired of my string of posts on this thread but I thought that you would appreciate better images of the photos I refer to above. Overnight author/photographer David Howard has kindly and quickly responded positively to my request to post images from 'The Last Filipino Head Hunters' on the forum as long as WWW.TRIBALARTASIA.COM DAVID HOWARD ASIAN TRIBAL ART appears on the same page - which I am more than happy to do!

I am posting below the two images I referred to above:

Page 132 - Ifuago tribe in village of Tam-an...
Page 150 - the shaman Gem-o showing his loincloth


Attachments:
File comment: Page 132 - Ifuago tribe in village of Tam-an... from The Last Filipino Head Hunters by David Howard WWW.TRIBALARTASIA.COM
p132-LFH.jpg
p132-LFH.jpg [ 93.62 KiB | Viewed 14364 times ]
File comment: Page 150 - the shaman Gem-o showing his loincloth from The Last Filipino Head Hunters by David Howard WWW.TRIBALARTASIA.COM
p150-LFH.jpg
p150-LFH.jpg [ 98.43 KiB | Viewed 14364 times ]

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