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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 1:56 pm 
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Active forum members may remember that I started a thread (which grew delightfully) about a Dong thread booklet from Guizhou http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... php?t=1249

We had some very interesting examples posted to this thread and I also shared further information that came to light about mine. I have been able to see several more of these booklets via Ruth Smith (who has written small booklets about them) and Martin Conlan who, having asked his S W China contacts to keep an eye out for them, has been buying them on his visits to China. Interesting as I have found them I was determined not to start a collection. You are already thinking 'famous last words...' and, I suppose, you would be right! OK, so I am not exactly 'collecting' them but I just could not resist a simply charming one which Martin brought back from Yunnan at the end of 2009. It is Yi from Wenshan (and I don't even (really) collect Yi...!)

I am going to post images of the the booklet (approx 19x14cm when closed) to share the lovely water-colour sketches with you.

The inner edges of the thread booklet are painted to look like the woven thread work on the Wenshan Yi costume. Inside the booklet are some paper cut outs for appliqué and also some green fabric cut outs probably dipped in something like rice starch to stiffen them and stop them fraying.

Page 374 of 'Writing with Thread' has a costume from Shiping county, Yunnan which has a woman's head covering (back) and sash with the similar woven thread work and appliqué (and in another booklet somewhat similar to mine there was a piece that could have come from a similar head covering (back)).

Enjoy!!!


Attachments:
File comment: Booklet closed up
wWenshanYiMed1_wrppd.jpg
wWenshanYiMed1_wrppd.jpg [ 84.97 KiB | Viewed 5988 times ]
File comment: showing side view when closed
wWenshanYiMed1_side.jpg
wWenshanYiMed1_side.jpg [ 80.31 KiB | Viewed 5988 times ]
File comment: opened out showing stuck patchwork on 'doors' of centre pockets
wWenshanYiMed1_innr.jpg
wWenshanYiMed1_innr.jpg [ 76.13 KiB | Viewed 5988 times ]
File comment: inside front cover
wWenshanYiMed1_L.jpg
wWenshanYiMed1_L.jpg [ 82 KiB | Viewed 5988 times ]
File comment: front fold
wfYiHuayaoYunnanMedThreadBk.jpg
wfYiHuayaoYunnanMedThreadBk.jpg [ 69.09 KiB | Viewed 5988 times ]
File comment: inside centre
wWenshanYiMed1_a.jpg
wWenshanYiMed1_a.jpg [ 67.6 KiB | Viewed 5988 times ]
File comment: back fold
wbWenshanYiMed1_Pt2W.jpg
wbWenshanYiMed1_Pt2W.jpg [ 81.52 KiB | Viewed 5988 times ]
File comment: inside back
wbWenshanYiMed1.jpg
wbWenshanYiMed1.jpg [ 67.91 KiB | Viewed 5988 times ]

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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Last edited by Pamela on Mon May 03, 2010 8:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject: Yi Sewing Booklet
PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 3:58 am 
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Location: Denver, Colorado, USA
Pamela, this is SUCH a treasure - just exquisite and charming. Thank you for sharing this!


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 11:32 pm 
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Posts: 155
Location: Beijing
These booklets are very pretty, I have seen several but not bought one so far.

This is probably a bit "left field", but the sewing booklets remind me of the painting pattern books that were formerly used (I think) by Han Chinese house painters. The book is bound in indigo cotton, and there are blank pages and a pouch at the front, suggesting that it was also used to store things that needed to be kept flat, though I am not sure what.

Chris


Attachments:
File comment: Chinese painting pattern book, late 19th or early 20thC
booklet1.jpg
booklet1.jpg [ 49.28 KiB | Viewed 5914 times ]
File comment: Chinese painting pattern book, late 19th or early 20thC
booklet2.jpg
booklet2.jpg [ 79.73 KiB | Viewed 5914 times ]
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PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2010 2:18 pm 
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Thanks, Chris. How intesesting to see a 'cousin' of my thread booklet and to get a sense of background to the genre. What a lovely confident striding lion!

One of the things that I find interesting about the thread booklets is that until recently, when Ruth Smith started investigating the booklets having seen some in villages with Gina Corrigan (perhaps about 2005 or a bit earlier) and then Martin Conlan began putting out enquiries with his S W China contacts, there was hardly any interest or awareness of these booklets which, it now seems likely, were widely in use across geographic and ethnic boundaries in the region.

I found it fascinating a couple of months ago when Martin brought to show me a box full of the different thread/sewing booklets that he had acquired (lots, of course had already flown out of the door over the past few years). Different styles of construction as well as decoration. It was possible to see stylistic groupings based, say, on Dong or Yi. A delightful sub-culture of artistic expression focused on a utilitarian purpose. So many unanswered questions. Were some of the decorations/illustrations done by the woman who used the booklet or were they made by men in her family or, perhaps others supplying them to the market place?

We are hoping that Ruth Smith will write a book based on her on-going research of the booklets.

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2010 2:38 pm 
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Martin has just been in touch wanting to clarify the attribution of my thread booklet. I had drawn his attention to Chris Buckley's painting pattern book (hence his first comment!)

Quote:
Hello Pamela,

Thanks for that. It looks like an interesting genre of books. Appropriate as I am currently decorating our bathroom!

With regard to the 'Wenshan thread book' thread to be accurate I think it should say Huayao Yi from Shiping County. These are the Flowerbelt Yi.
I'm not sure if you got the Wenshan name from an old image of the first book of this type I got some time ago when I wasn't sure of it's accurate provenance. I called it that because Wenshan was general area where a few of the different Yunnan styles were coming from.

I have added a couple of pictures of the decorated parts of the long Flowerbelts (also from Shiping County), which show the spotted edges of your booklet pages mimicking the embroidered edges of the belts and a couple of images from a smaller book than yours.

Best wishes,

Martin


I attach the photos he sent with the email.


Attachments:
HuayaoYiWaistBelt3ft.jpg
HuayaoYiWaistBelt3ft.jpg [ 88.39 KiB | Viewed 5878 times ]
HuayaoYiWaistBelt4ft.jpg
HuayaoYiWaistBelt4ft.jpg [ 86.04 KiB | Viewed 5878 times ]
WenshanYiMed2_Pt1_2.jpg
WenshanYiMed2_Pt1_2.jpg [ 63.99 KiB | Viewed 5878 times ]
WenshanYiMed2_Pt2_2.jpg
WenshanYiMed2_Pt2_2.jpg [ 70.34 KiB | Viewed 5878 times ]

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Pamela

http://www.tribaltextiles.info
on-line tribal textiles resource


Last edited by Pamela on Sun May 02, 2010 10:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 2:10 am 
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Location: Beijing
Delightful pictures! The umbrella is a must-have item in those parts.

"No two days without rain, and no two coins to rub together in any one pocket"

Chris


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 8:47 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 1:42 pm
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Location: Canterbury, UK
Ann Goodman has now had a chance to see this thread and has sent me the following message with photos:

Quote:
Dear Pamela,
The Huayi Flowerbelt books from Shiping Couny paintings are charming. I have several Yi Shiping outfits in my collection but did not know the "Huayao" attribution specified by Martin Conlan. Attached here is a group of photos of one of my outfits with small extra belt and headscarf. I show the headscarf both open and folded, and the underrobe with both front and back views. The interest in these outfits is the back view with the flowerbelt. But also of interest is the manner in which the robe is tied. The front two panels of the the robe are longer than the heavily embroidered single back panel. These front panels are pulled around to the back and tied as in the photo. Then the beautiful flowerbelt is looped around the waist several times with the embroidered ends arrayed in the back and the entire waist is belted a second time with a narrow embroidered belt which is fastened with buttons, not ties, in the front. The headscarf is composed of several sections which are folded and pleated and finished with tassels. Altogether a very complex outfit, beautifully embroidered, and sometimes embellished with small silver bosses. The style is well described in the "Writing with Thread" catalog, p. 375.

Best to all
Ann


Attachments:
YiShipingBckW.jpg
YiShipingBckW.jpg [ 78.71 KiB | Viewed 5827 times ]
YigirlbckwthfrnttiesW.jpg
YigirlbckwthfrnttiesW.jpg [ 80.47 KiB | Viewed 5827 times ]
YiShipingFrnt-W.jpg
YiShipingFrnt-W.jpg [ 92.86 KiB | Viewed 5827 times ]
YiHdscrf-opn-4C2DEW.jpg
YiHdscrf-opn-4C2DEW.jpg [ 80.54 KiB | Viewed 5827 times ]
YiShipingiHdscrflddW.jpg
YiShipingiHdscrflddW.jpg [ 74.1 KiB | Viewed 5827 times ]
Yigirlbckbttmwth64C2C3W.jpg
Yigirlbckbttmwth64C2C3W.jpg [ 82.29 KiB | Viewed 5827 times ]

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
on-line tribal textiles resource
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