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tribaltextiles.info • View topic - Iban sungkits

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 Post subject: Iban sungkits
PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 3:54 pm 
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Posts: 177
Location: east coast


Attachments:
File comment: dancing figures from an old Indian cloth such as might have been seen long ago by Iban weavers
dancing figures from an old Indian cloth.jpg
dancing figures from an old Indian cloth.jpg [ 109.1 KiB | Viewed 9415 times ]
File comment: "Dancing figures" pua sungkit. 82.5" x 43.4"
sungkit  dancing figures.jpg
sungkit dancing figures.jpg [ 110.02 KiB | Viewed 9415 times ]
File comment: A "kain sunkgit" . 41.5" x 17"
iban kain sungkit.jpg
iban kain sungkit.jpg [ 112.02 KiB | Viewed 9415 times ]
File comment: close-up of the combination sungkit and ikat skirt.
detail.JPG
detail.JPG [ 99.59 KiB | Viewed 9415 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 10:22 am 
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Location: Kuching, Malaysia
Congratulations, John!

That is a very fine Saribas pua sungkit.

Two distinctive regional identifiers stand out:

1. The red/white/deep blue vertical selvedges.
2. The top and bottom fringes have twinings, almost always a marker of Saribas craftsmanship.

What you have here is a sungkit version of the pua kumbu in the photo I attach below, which is an important (read: rare) piece of the Textile Museum's Iban material collection.


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textile museum washington dc collection.jpg
textile museum washington dc collection.jpg [ 317.65 KiB | Viewed 9379 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 10:34 am 
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Location: Kuching, Malaysia
Details of the above photo from the Textile Museum:

Object ID: 2000.22.3

Object Name: pua kumbu

Made: Malaysia ~ Sarawak ~ Saribas area

Culture: Iban

Language: Austronesian Language ~ Malayic-Dayak Language ~ Ibanic language

Credit line: The Christensen Fund

Description: Pua kumbu constructed from 2 loom widths (A: 54.5 cm, B: 52 cm) hand sewn together with warp vertical. Worked in warp-faced plain weave with warp ikat (brown/red, dark brown/red, white) and weft twining (blue, white). Areas of warp ikat shows bundles of multiple warps (3-4) and non-ikat areas show paired and tripled warps. Small areas of blue weft on 1 panel (18cm), otherwise all weft is brown. Lateral borders of warp stripes with 3 stripes of warp ikat. Central field shows rows of anthropomorphic figures (see REMARKS). Weft twining both ends of textile, extending only to lateral border, with twining weft buries in round weave to selvedge. Warp fringe is twisted both ends with one end showing a kind of oblique interlacing of twisted fringe extending across both panels. (LMF 03/2007)

Materials: cotton ~ hand spun ~ natural dye

Structure/Technique: plain weave ~ warp-faced | warp ikat | weft twining

Edge Finish: loom width ~ selvedge | cut warp ends ~ twisted ~ oblique interlacing

Construction: 2 loom widths hand sewn together with stitching in zig-zag arrangement.

Yarn: warp

Fiber: cotton

Make-Up: z-spun, multiple

Count: 19/cm

Color: red/brown|dark red/brown | blue| white (natural)

Yarn: weft

Fiber: cotton

Make-Up: z-spun, multiple (blue only)

Count: 7/cm

Color: brown | some blue

Subject/Pattern: anthropomorphic figure

Function/Use: ritual textile

Remarks: regarding PATTERN from Gittinger, 2005, p.109: "the anthropomorphic figures on this cloth, a design called 'buah engkeramba', were once thought to be some of the most powerful motifs among the Iban. However, more recent research suggests they are just anthropomorphic figures of no special importance. As one Iban explained the pattern, "Weavers only made the pattern to take a break from producing power patterns" (cited in Gavin 2003, 282). The abstract forked" pattern that encloses the figures is known as 'buah gajai', whose interpretation is open to debate, possibly that of a bird (ibid., 290-291). The Iban revel in complexity of pattern that is bilaterally symmetrical, the tying of the pattern would have involved few pattern units. It would not have pleased the Iban desire for allusion and indirect communication, which they value so highly. For those of other cultures, however, the care with which the figures are rendered, revealing both male and female forms, tends to beguile the imagination."

Publication: p. 109, fig. 7.5

Gittinger, Mattiebelle. Textiles for This World and Beyond: Treasures From Insular Southeast Asia. Scala Publishers: London. 2005.

Exhibition: "Textiles for This World and Beyond: Textiles from Insular Southeast Asia" 04/01/2005 - 09/18/2005


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 10:44 am 
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Location: Kuching, Malaysia
More dancing figures at this thread


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2009_11_11_pua_02c_125.jpg
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:24 pm 
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Location: east coast


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:27 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 7:35 pm
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 3:25 am 
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Location: Kuching, Malaysia


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 3:31 am 
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