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 Post subject: bast fibre textiles
PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 1:17 pm 
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Some of you will have seen Olivier's post on the 'Tribal textile shopping...' section of the forum http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... php?t=1380 with photos of a couple of Ainu textiles that he wants to sell.

Ainu textiles have always attracted me - technique and fibres - so I asked Olivier a few questions about them. He then shared with me some more photos and some scans of pages from a Japanese magazine that he came across showing the preparation of elm tree cloth, the fibre used by the Ainu in their textiles. The Japanese are so good at using photos and diagrams to show processes and techniques and this is no exception. I thought I would like to share the photos with the forum. Olivier then said that there were pages on the preparation of other bast fibres in the magazine! So, mad as usual (!) I said I would be prepared to edit the photos for the web and post if he would send the images to me as I thought that forum members might find them interesting!

We don't know the name of the magazine as there is nothing at all in English. However, I am posting first a scan of the cover of the magazine and, if anyone can help us with the details shown there we would be very grateful and I will, of course, add them here. [See Chris Buckley's post below where he kindly translates the characters as "Japanese Natural Cloth".]
Olivier has noted that:
Quote:
"In Japan coton came very late (XVIII) and silk was exclusively for rich people so peasants have developed many many bast fibers (linen, wisteria, elm bark, hemp, etc...)."

As well as sending me images of the different bast fibre preparation processes Olivier also sent me photos of examples of the fibres in the form of textiles which he has in his collection. (Olivier's collection of textiles is increasingly focused on bast fibres.) I am going to share some of these with you on the thread - and my grateful thanks to Olivier for being willing to share all these 'goodies' with the forum!!! It will take a bit of time for me to work through everything so I hope you will be patient![/i]


Attachments:
File comment: Cover of Japanese magazine containing pictorial information on the preparation of various bast fibres
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Last edited by Pamela on Sat Aug 15, 2009 7:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 1:46 pm 
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I am starting with the images from the magazine of the Ainu preparing fibres and cloth from the bark of the elm tree.

The next post will be some details from Olivier's two textiles shown on http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... php?t=1380 For images of the complete textiles go to that thread.


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File comment: the weaving process
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 Post subject: Ainu elm bark textiles
PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 1:49 pm 
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As promised, details from Olivier's two Ainu elm-cloth textiles (from Hokkaido):


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Last edited by Pamela on Fri Aug 14, 2009 2:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject: wisteria
PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 2:03 pm 
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First, from Olivier's collection:
Quote:
"... I bought few years ago in Japan this work cloth from north Honshu island made with wisteria"


Attachments:
File comment: work clothing from wisteria cloth from north Honshu Island, Japan
workcoat-w.jpg
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 2:07 pm 
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the preparation of cloth from wisteria...


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 2:45 pm 
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Olivier:
Quote:
"Another beautiful piece bought in Japan is this kimono from Okinawa called bashofu, made with banana plant: Old bashofu have these really beautiful honey color."


Attachments:
File comment: bashofu textile in Olivier's collection
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File comment: detail of bashofu textile in Olivier's collection
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 Post subject: preparation of bashofu
PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 2:50 pm 
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The preparation of bashofu


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 Post subject: linen
PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 2:54 pm 
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From Olivier:
Quote:
"Women wearing linen bark on their shoulders. Japanese people were weaving linen bark too, for cloth quite similar to Ainu cloth made with elm bark."


Attachments:
File comment: Women carrying linen bark on their shoulders
linen-w.jpg
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 3:08 pm 
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Olivier:

Two fine textiles in Olivier's collection which he bought in Korea. They are women's short jackets made from a plant which, in Korean, is called mochi and is in the nettle family. In some mochi textiles the thread is left natural and in others it is bleached.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 3:14 pm 
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The preparation of mochi (nettle family) fibre


Attachments:
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 Post subject: hemp
PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 3:21 pm 
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And, finally, a lovely photo (and favourite of Olivier) taken in the north of Japan of strips of woven, dyed and printed hemp laid out on the snow - although Olivier does not know the significance of the snow!

Olivier sent me a photo of a hemp kazuki in his collection but I can't find it at the moment! If and when I do I will add it here.


Attachments:
hemp-w.jpg
hemp-w.jpg [ 71.32 KiB | Viewed 13025 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 3:32 pm 
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Beautiful pictures and textiles. Thanks for posting them. And I am always interested in the weaving aspects also. Well done.

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 Post subject: Bast fiber clothing
PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 3:24 am 
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I love these, particularly for the texture!

The Japanese magazine is called "Japanese Natural Cloth" (not sure if that's the "official" translation, but that's what the characters mean).

Bast fiber clothing with similar texture and simple designs arouses my curiosity because it is found in most of the islands along the Pacific seabord: Hainan, Taiwan, mainland Japan, Hokkaido, Korean peninsula. It might be co-incidence but it also makes you wonder if the art was transmitted by maritime people up or down this coastline.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 7:54 pm 
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Dear Chris

Many thanks for the translation of the characters for the name of the very excellent Japanese magazine. Yes, the textures are special.

...don't forget the banana fabric in the Philippines which would take your sailors on down southwards! Of course, one finds hemp and ramie in mainland China (and perhaps other bast fibres?)

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 Post subject: Bast fibers
PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 2:40 pm 
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Some korean sailors were talking about cloths made with bast fibers in Ryukus Islande (Okinawa) in the XVII century. There were many exchange between Korea and Okinawa. During the second world war the main part of okinawan villages have been destroyed, so it is difficult to find old "bashofu" nowadays but okinawan people, as korean people still use bast fibers. But I don't know if there were commercial exchanges with Philippines.


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