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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 12:56 pm 
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Ann Goodman has been in touch again having seen this thread so I am about to metamorphose into Ann!!!!

Quote:
"Attached are two photos of Yi man's garments, one a long robe similar to those posted by Iain and Louis. I, too, puzzled over the location of the decoration on the wrong side of the long robe. I think that the long tail of the robe is pulled between the legs from back to front and then gathered by a long woven hemp belt and folded over so that the decoration is visible. The jacket was bought by me at the same time as the long robe, and I think that they should be worn together as in the attached photo.

In the attached folder I have also placed a woman's outfit apparently from the same Yi subgroup. Thanks to Iain and Susan for giving me the general geographic locations of this subgroup, as being from Yunnan, rather than Sichuan."

[I am attaching 5 photos from Ann, 2 of male costume and 3 of woman's)

[See post further down this thread where the attribution of the top photo as being of a man's garment is now amended 25 Jul 09]


Attachments:
YimanHempoutfit.jpg
YimanHempoutfit.jpg [ 58.04 KiB | Viewed 3527 times ]
YimanHempjacket.jpg
YimanHempjacket.jpg [ 65.14 KiB | Viewed 3527 times ]
YiWomanHempCostume.jpg
YiWomanHempCostume.jpg [ 66.78 KiB | Viewed 3527 times ]
YiWomanHempVest.jpg
YiWomanHempVest.jpg [ 81.39 KiB | Viewed 3527 times ]
YiwomanUnderblouse.jpg
YiwomanUnderblouse.jpg [ 49.17 KiB | Viewed 3527 times ]

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Last edited by Pamela on Sat Jul 25, 2009 9:07 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 1:21 pm 
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Just a comment from me as me (!) re location of different groups and sub-groups. There are Yi in both Yunnan and Sichuan provinces and if you look at the border between the two provinces you will see that they have a long joint border with several 'kinks' see http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h ... image&cd=3

It would be easy for there to be people from the same subgroup in both provinces in quite a small geographic area. The province border is not going to break up the underlying ethnic groups. Also, some families may break away from the main group and move in search of new, more fertile land.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 9:01 pm 
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Following the exhibit 'Writing with Thread' and the excellent catalogue recently published, 'Writing with Thread: Traditional Textiles of Southwest Chinese Minorities' (for full details of the book and how to obtain a copy see http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... php?t=1224 ) Ann Goodman has been in touch with me:

Quote:
Dear Pamela,

Now that you have obtained permission to post photos from the Writing with Thread catalog I hasten to send you a piece of major identification from the exhibit in Santa Fe and the catalog. There is a thread on The Forum [this thread] devoted to discussion of the impressive Yi Luxi huge capes that several of us have in our collections. I thought that the cape was a man's garment which was pulled between the legs to form a front skirt and I sent a photo of such for discussion on the Forum (see photo "Misattribution as male"). However, when I put a much larger cape (08.059 Yi Luxi Ceremonial garment) on my husband and tried to drape it, the hemp robe was much too voluminous to fit comfortably between his legs. Was there a difference between Yi men and American men? Now I understand my mistake. According to Writing With Threads the robes in question are ceremonial garments for women (see attached scan from the WWT catalog). The explanatory text on page 376 of the catalog is as follows:

"CEREMONIAL GARMENT The baina is made from six panels of heavy hemp cloth. Embroidery embellishes the front and shoulders and the lower inside back that is pulled up over the head when worn to make the needlework plainly visible. The baina signifies wealth, solemnity, and respect for family origins. According to village elders, it can be worn only under three circumstances: 1) upon entering the groom's home the bride is covered with the baina so her figure is concealed, 2) the eldest son's wife wears a baina to greet relatives at the funeral of a famiy member; 3) a married daughter wears a baina to honor the dead and express her gratitude when she returns to her parents' home for the funeral of an elderly family member (Chen, "Caizhuang nongyan fanhua sijin: [Vibrant Colors and Brocade-like Floral]. 108-19.)

The Writing With Threads catalog is a wonderful addition to any archive or collection of Chinese ethnic minority textiles.

Ann


Attachments:
File comment: Ann's textile "Misattribution as male" shown earlier on this thread
misattrib-male-w.jpg
misattrib-male-w.jpg [ 89.83 KiB | Viewed 2536 times ]
File comment: 08.059 Yi Luxi Ceremonial garment from Ann Goodman's collection
08.059YiLuxi.Ceremonia-w.jpg
08.059YiLuxi.Ceremonia-w.jpg [ 82.19 KiB | Viewed 2536 times ]
File comment: 'Ceremonial Garment: Luxi County, Yunnan Early-mid 20th century 209 x 130 cm 940201001' page 376, 'Writing with Thread: Traditional Textiles of Southwest Chinese Minorities'
luzi-p376-wwt.jpg
luzi-p376-wwt.jpg [ 73.52 KiB | Viewed 2536 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:57 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 30, 2009 8:34 pm
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Location: Amsterdam
Greetings!

I am quite pleased to see all these different examples of Yi capes and costumes from central Yunnan. There are several similar examples in my collection!

My speciality is the study and collection of traditional hemp and other bast fiber weavings with a strong focus on the Himalayan foothills and Yunnan plateau.

Please feel free to contact me with any questions and observations you may have...

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Robert C. Clarke
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International Hemp Association - Projects Manager
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