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 Post subject: help with unknown ikat
PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 10:43 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:43 pm
Posts: 6
Location: Netherlands
Hi,
I'm new and because I frequently come along textile related items I joined in on this forum.
a time ago I found this ikat but I don't know where its from,
can anyone help me?

regards,

Arjan.


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 Post subject: Ikat from Timor
PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2009 9:55 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 2:41 pm
Posts: 36
Location: London, UK
Dear Arjan
My initial reaction is that this piece is from Amarasi, West Timor. It looks like one panel of a warp ikat natam koroh sarong. To be able to respond more surely, I would need to know the material of the threads and the dimensions of the piece.
Look to Warming and Gaworski, 'The World of Indonesian Textiles', page 26, for my first guess.
A full sarong is made up of two panels woven in warp ikat and then sewn together. The piece you have shown appears to be one section of what might be a two panel sarong.
I hope this helps
Regards
Lesley

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2009 10:36 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 1:42 pm
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Location: Canterbury, UK
Lesley

Very many thanks for that pointer to Amarasi. This is not really my area of expertise but I had started looking through my books. I had felt the weaving was one strip for a larger piece and that it was from Timor. What had particularly caught my eye, aside from the ikat designs, were the fine supplementary warp stripes.

I have now had a look in 'Traditional Textiles of West Timor: Rigional Variations in Historical Perspective; by Ruth Marie Yaeger and Mark Ivan Jacobson, March 1997. This is based on the 1995 self published edition and published via Batuan Biru Proctions in the USA. The images in this are very grainy and photocopied. It was, I think, republished - with colour pics - by White Lotus as No.2 in the Material Culture series edited by Michael C Howard and I keep meaning to get the upgraded edition if it is still available.

Pages 92-95 cover Amarasi in the Kupang Regency. On page 94 are two images of what are said to be side panels of selimuts. The ikat is somewhat different but, there are three bands of it with, in one, a wider central band. However, what 'does it for me' at this stage are the supplementary warp stripes incorporating very similar motifs to the one that Arjan has posted. (Buraen and Baun clans).

The ikat seems similar to that for the Oekabiti clan (also Amarasi) as shown in Fig V1A-1, p93. There are probably supplementary warp stripes of a similar style but in the rather poor photo reproduction they show up just as dark, solid lines.

From the text there are three major villages corresponding with the three clans: Baun, Buraen and Oekabiti.

Initially I had wondered, in the same book, about other locations in W Timor as the ikat was similar but the fine supplementary warp stripes were missing. I think these are crucial for any ID and take us back to Amarasi.

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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 Post subject: wow !
PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2009 6:33 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:43 pm
Posts: 6
Location: Netherlands
Well Lesley and Pamela many thanks for shaing your knowledge!
The sizes are 38 cm x 244 cm so I have a half ikat then? The material is cotton.
Nice to know where its from and I must say that I didn't know at all that it was possible to determinate textiles so exactly to a specific tribe!



friendly regards,

Arjan.

Pamela wrote:
Lesley

Very many thanks for that pointer to Amarasi. This is not really my area of expertise but I had started looking through my books. I had felt the weaving was one strip for a larger piece and that it was from Timor. What had particularly caught my eye, aside from the ikat designs, were the fine supplementary warp stripes.

I have now had a look in 'Traditional Textiles of West Timor: Rigional Variations in Historical Perspective; by Ruth Marie Yaeger and Mark Ivan Jacobson, March 1997. This is based on the 1995 self published edition and published via Batuan Biru Proctions in the USA. The images in this are very grainy and photocopied. It was, I think, republished - with colour pics - by White Lotus as No.2 in the Material Culture series edited by Michael C Howard and I keep meaning to get the upgraded edition if it is still available.

Pages 92-95 cover Amarasi in the Kupang Regency. On page 94 are two images of what are said to be side panels of selimuts. The ikat is somewhat different but, there are three bands of it with, in one, a wider central band. However, what 'does it for me' at this stage are the supplementary warp stripes incorporating very similar motifs to the one that Arjan has posted. (Buraen and Baun clans).

The ikat seems similar to that for the Oekabiti clan (also Amarasi) as shown in Fig V1A-1, p93. There are probably supplementary warp stripes of a similar style but in the rather poor photo reproduction they show up just as dark, solid lines.

From the text there are three major villages corresponding with the three clans: Baun, Buraen and Oekabiti.

Initially I had wondered, in the same book, about other locations in W Timor as the ikat was similar but the fine supplementary warp stripes were missing. I think these are crucial for any ID and take us back to Amarasi.
:shock:


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 Post subject: Timor textile
PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2009 8:54 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 2:41 pm
Posts: 36
Location: London, UK
Arjan
For further information look to the Threads of Life website http://threadsoflife.com/ , Pamela has links to them, they do field research in Timor and often have images that might be of interest to you in relation to this cloth .
Happy collecting - if you every get any further pieces from Indonesia I will enjoy trying to help you analyse them.
regards
Lesley

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 2:02 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2003 6:34 pm
Posts: 393
Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
Lesley beat me to it! Threads of Life's newly revamped website has a lovely textile from Amarasi and some information about it; they say the supplementary warp technique used is called 'sotis' there. Here's a link to their textile: http://threadsoflife.com/product.asp?id=timortextile

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 2:22 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 09, 2009 1:01 am
Posts: 248
Location: Japan
Dear Arjan, I had this post all typed out and then lost the text right at the end! Don't know why that happens but will start again. Your textile is definitely from Amarasi although I can not say which village. I visited Baun Amarasi in the late 70's and collected many textiles very similar to yours. I haven't had mine out to look at them for quite some time so can't say if the ikat patterns are like yours or like those of the skirt on the Threads of Life site. That skirt measures 131x236cen. It looks like a 2 panel skirt with 4 bands of ikat patterns in each panel. That would make each panel 118 cen. wide, a max. for a backstrap loom, and more than 3 times the width of your cloth. Your piece has fringes on the bottom. Does it also have fringes on the other end which are not shown in your second photo? If not, does it appear as if they may have been cut off? Judging from the fringes and the narrow width I would say your cloth is not from a skirt but rather from a man's hipwrap or shoulder cloth (blanket). If I remember correctly, male textiles from Amarasi are 3 panel textiles with a plain white center panel flanked by ikat panels on either side. This is also the style on the very small island of Samau off the coast of Amarasi where the Helong people live. Their ikat patterns are bands of diamond like motifs, however. In Amarasi and on Samu the white center panel is wider than the ikat side panels producing a textile as much as 150 cen. in width. In Amarasi I think the ikat patterns were called "kaif" which ment interlocking hook patterns,a common motif in Timor, and were ment to represent the patterns of python skin. The python plays a prominent role in the mythology of many tribes in Indonesia and the Philippines and its patterns are powerful and protective symbols. I believe what you have is a very nice side panel from an Amarasi man's cloth. Best regards, MAC


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