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 Post subject: Jianghua Yao
PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 12:40 pm 
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As the forum seems to have fallen asleep in 2009 I thought that I had better get down to working on some photos that Martin Conlan shared with me before Christmas. They are of small textile gems of embroidery of the Jianghua Yao from Hunan. These are from Martin's personal collection of textiles. Often I think that Martin is like the owner of a bookshop who loves books so much that he cannot bear to sell any:
Quote:
"A number of years ago a Japanese collector offered me a few hundred pounds for the first piece [cushion end No 1 below] which is a bit smaller than it appears here! It's so complex it's almost cosmic! I have drooled over it many times since I bought it."

Martin brought one of the pieces to a show to share its glory with me, Purse No1, and it is truly an amazing embroidered construction. I love the whimsy that it shows as well - as those of you who have read my comments on Andrew Dudley's wax resist pieces will know this always catches my eye!

I have made detail shots of some of the pieces in an attempt to show the amazing fineness of the embroidery.

Of course I wanted to know more about 'Jianghua Yao from Hunan'. I had a search on the web and came up with a couple of web pages http://www.ethnic-china.com/Geo/Hunan/hunanintro.htm and the link from this http://www.ethnic-china.com/Geo/Hunan/hunanjianghua.htm which I pointed out to Martin and also asked whether he thought his Jianghua Yao might be 'Guoshan' or 'Gaoshan' as mentioned on the web. Martin responded with:

Quote:
"Well, the Jianghua Yao have been very difficult to pin down with regard to identifying their 'group' textiles. When I got all my pieces many moons ago most of Hunan was closed to foreigners. I'd originally seen a few pieces in Yangsuo, Guangxi and traced them from there. I had to rent a driver & vehicle and go and meet a 'runner' who I had prearranged to meet on the border.

This is one of the reasons little is known or written about textiles from here. Most of the interesting ones had disappeared by the time the Kaili runners (who are a bit more worldly when it comes to info needed) really got going. The original movement of these textiles came about to satisfy the Chinese (& western) tourist market that developed early on along the Li River and Guilin. I got lucky and recognized it as special then.

The textile styles here are very distinctive and different from other Yao styles in the region. But Yao styles can vary tremendously everywhere. In reality smaller Yao groups are easily influenced by the predominant minority style in their local area. A good example of this is the Yao and Miao styles from the Nandan area.

Some dealers even now see Jianghua Yao as Han influenced (and that counts as a negative), largely I think because they don't understand the subtleties of it. Pan Hu(ng) the dragon dog ancestor is often simply mistaken for a Chinese dragon.

Yao dragon Dog ancestor 'P'an Hung'. Had 12 children-the Yao clans-“The Yao people are linked with the most ancient period in Chinese history. All Chinese scholars, and most people interested in China’s folklore, have read the story of P’an Hu, the Palace dog who married a Chinese Emperor’s daughter. As told in the Chronicles of the Later Han Dynasty, Hou Han Shu, written by Fan Yeh in the Vth Century A.D. The proto-Chinese Emperor Gao Xin [Kao-hsin] (2435-2365 B.C.) had promised to give one of his daughters in marriage to anyone who could rid him of General Wu, the chief of the marauding Chuan Jung (‘Dog Jung’) tribe. A five-coloured dog named P’an Hu, a familiar pet of his Court, succeeded, and brought back General Wu’s head to the Emperor. The dog and the princess were subsequently married and their children (six boys and six girls, who intermarried) becoming the forefathers of the Yao tribes.” The couple, part wild and part imperial, settled down on a mountain in Wuling, where they had 12 children, 6 boys and 6 girls--the origin of the 12 Man/Yao clans. For their support, Emperor Kao-sin issued the Yao people and all their descendants a charter guaranteeing their freedom from taxes, levies and state imposed burdens. The Emperor understood the Yao, as true Tao people, possessed no desire to interfere with affairs of the state if left alone."

This partly explains why the Yao adopted the Chinese script and unlike most other groups in the region have a written history, and so have been widely studied by scholars and researchers.

For me the quality of most of the work is exceptional. That's what drew me to it in the first place-although being Yao made it much more saleable. However, I first had to convince people that it was what I said it was. Very little is available about this area and it's textiles in any books, so in the end being able to identify it through the recognition of it's symbols by Yao collectors is what made it possible.

Guoshan, Gaoshan etc, I'm not sure!

That's just taken me back to about 18-20 years ago when travel and sourcing things was in another era!

All the best,

Martin"


I have one book on Folk Embroidery in Hunan, ISBN 7-5356-0689-X/J published by Hunan Fine Arts in 1994. Frustratingly for me it is all in Chinese. On pages 74-79 are similar items to those in Martin's photos.

We would love to see any Jianghua Yao textiles which anyone else has in their collection and also to hear any further information. My thanks to Martin for having let me share these textile gems with you all.


Attachments:
File comment: Yao, Jianghua, Hunan pillow/Cushion End 1
p391w.jpg
p391w.jpg [ 71.91 KiB | Viewed 9882 times ]
File comment: Detail of Yao, Jianghua, Hunan Pillow/Cushion End 1
p391detw.jpg
p391detw.jpg [ 72.86 KiB | Viewed 9882 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 12:44 pm 
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Two more Jianghua Yao pillow ends:


Attachments:
File comment: Yao, Jianghua, Hunan Pillow/Cushion End 2
p393w.jpg
p393w.jpg [ 67.5 KiB | Viewed 9874 times ]
File comment: Detail, Yao, Jianghua, Hunan Pillow/Cushion End 2
p393detw.jpg
p393detw.jpg [ 77.09 KiB | Viewed 9874 times ]
File comment: Yao, Jianghua, Hunan Pillow/Cushion End 3
p399w.jpg
p399w.jpg [ 77.85 KiB | Viewed 9874 times ]
File comment: Detail, Yao, Jianghua, Hunan Pillow/Cushion End 3
p0000000399detw.jpg
p0000000399detw.jpg [ 68.04 KiB | Viewed 9874 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 12:50 pm 
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Two Jianghua Yao purses:


Attachments:
File comment: Yao, Jianghua, Hunan Purse 1
p388w.jpg
p388w.jpg [ 79.4 KiB | Viewed 9865 times ]
File comment: Detail, Yao, Jianghua, Hunan Purse 1
p388detw.jpg
p388detw.jpg [ 69.84 KiB | Viewed 9865 times ]
File comment: Yao, Jianghua, Hunan Purse 2-front
p395w.jpg
p395w.jpg [ 76.13 KiB | Viewed 9865 times ]
File comment: Detail, Yao, Jianghua, Hunan Purse 2-front
p395detw.jpg
p395detw.jpg [ 75 KiB | Viewed 9865 times ]
File comment: Yao, Jianghua, Hunan Purse 2-back
p396w.jpg
p396w.jpg [ 72.17 KiB | Viewed 9865 times ]
File comment: Detail, Yao, Jianghua, Hunan Purse 2-back
p396detw.jpg
p396detw.jpg [ 77.82 KiB | Viewed 9864 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 3:53 pm 
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Ann Goodman has come back to me following sight of this post:

Quote:
Dear Pamela,
Upon reading the post on the Jinghua Yao and seeing the fine textiles from Martin's collection I recalled the very first Chinese ethnic minority piece that I bought. I am sending JPEGs herewith. The piece, a baby carrier, was purchased from Marla Mallett in 2005 as Miao, Early to mid-20th century. I very much liked the embroidery but hated the blue "denim" border and straps so I removed same and threw them away! I also couldn't understand why anyone would cover all that beautiful embroidery with a tassel so I also removed that (but didn't throw it away). The piece, now framed, hangs in the hallway of my apartment on a black cotton background. Attached are details of the piece and other photos that I think are similar in technique to this "Jianghua Yao" piece.

Jinghua 4 is the full embroidery without the borders and straps. Jinghua 2 is a detail of the bottom section which is not done in Peking stitch, but instead in a braid that I think is called "Dazi". I have a Geyi jacket with "Dazi" embroidery of a mythical bird resembling some of Martin's Jianghua creatures as well as the birds in my baby carrier (although my birds are done in a mixture of Peking, "Dazi", and just plain satin stitch (see Jianghua1). Jianghua 1 and 3 also show a variety of arachnids in Peking stitch bordered by what looks like white horsetail couching similar to the technique used by the Miao and Shui. A coarser version of the arachnids bordered by couching is found in a very old Geyi jacket of mine (note the Miao hidden diamond indigo-dyed fabric that is the body of the jacket, as well as the beautiful ribbon work).

Finally I am attaching a Baibei Miao outfit and a detail from the back of the jacket which shows a bird similar to the bird on Martin's Jianghua purse. The keychain border around the bird is done on a background of diagonal shades of different colors, which can be seen also in Martin's purse.

These textiles represent the variety of minority influences on the Jianghua Yao visual vocabuilary. "


I am posting below the images which Ann thinks may be Jianghua Yao. My computer has not, so far, been able to read the other files which Ann sent. As and when I am able I will add those images of what Ann believes to be influences on the Jianghua Yao and illustrate her message above.


Attachments:
Jianghua-Yao-BCw.jpg
Jianghua-Yao-BCw.jpg [ 79.66 KiB | Viewed 9767 times ]
Jinghua2w.jpg
Jinghua2w.jpg [ 79.56 KiB | Viewed 9767 times ]
Jinghua3w.jpg
Jinghua3w.jpg [ 78.94 KiB | Viewed 9767 times ]
Jinghua4w.jpg
Jinghua4w.jpg [ 78.29 KiB | Viewed 9767 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 3:25 pm 
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I am posting images of pages from the book I referred to above - Folk Embroidery in Hunan, ISBN 7-5356-0689-X/J published by Hunan Fine Arts in 1994. It is in the same series as the super book on woven textiles from Hunan which we have referred to elsewhere on the forum. The series is all in Chinese but Steven Frost kindly offered to help with translating some of the material on the Yao.

I sent Steven scans of the image pages plus close-ups of the captions. He has very kindly come back with some translations. They do not really give us much more information in the sense of nothing on the Yao themselves. I have now sent Steven some more scans of the more detailed text on each item at the back of the book.

If anyone particularly wants a more of a close-up of any of the items shown on the pages below let me know and I will see what I can do.

I hope/think I have tied up Steven's translation of the pages and added to each attachment heading although I am not quite sure I have page 74 correct.


Attachments:
File comment: Lotus type waist belt. Direct translation would be "Lotus Bag Back Belt"
FEH74w.jpg
FEH74w.jpg [ 86.31 KiB | Viewed 9724 times ]
File comment: Top Lotus purses. First is a phoenix and chicken totem, the second is the eight Daoist treasures
Bottom - Embroidered Lotus Purse- It is the name of a folklore, but I don not recognize it

FEH75w.jpg
FEH75w.jpg [ 67.51 KiB | Viewed 9724 times ]
File comment: Top right- Characters from an opera, Top left Characters from historical dramas
Bottom- Lotus purse - Butterfly Peony

FEH76w.jpg
FEH76w.jpg [ 63.74 KiB | Viewed 9724 times ]
File comment: Top- Yao embroidered lotus purse Animal and Supreme Ultimate (in Chinese mythology the source of all things) totem
Bottom- Embroidered back bag (fanny pack) Peony with Tiger looking backwards

FEH77w.jpg
FEH77w.jpg [ 78.41 KiB | Viewed 9724 times ]
File comment: Top is a tobacco case with another type of peony pattern
Bottom I can't really understand. Something about applying a seal after closing?? Doesn't make sense because I don't have the context.

FEH78w.jpg
FEH78w.jpg [ 49.4 KiB | Viewed 9724 times ]
File comment: p79. Top - two different Butterfly and Peony bags
Bottom left Flower and Butterfly pattern, Bottom - right silver rooster and peony

FEH79w.jpg
FEH79w.jpg [ 52.15 KiB | Viewed 9724 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 3:27 pm 
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Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
Many thanks to Pamela, Martin, Ann, and Steven for sharing their knowledge and thoughts on these little gems. Here are a few that I have had. They are truly amazing little treasures, with some of the embroidery done with only a couple of silk threads which are about the thickness of human hairs. The detail is extraordinary, plus there is a sense of whimsy that I love.


Attachments:
File comment: Yao purse #3 from Hunan
Mail-AC230_Front.jpg
Mail-AC230_Front.jpg [ 55.64 KiB | Viewed 9675 times ]
File comment: Yao purse #2 from Hunan
Mail-AC231.jpg
Mail-AC231.jpg [ 61.27 KiB | Viewed 9675 times ]
File comment: Yao purse #1 from Hunan-other side
Mail-AC232_Side_2.jpg
Mail-AC232_Side_2.jpg [ 60.56 KiB | Viewed 9675 times ]
File comment: Yao purse #1 from Hunan
Mail-AC232_Side_1.jpg
Mail-AC232_Side_1.jpg [ 63.54 KiB | Viewed 9675 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 12:01 pm 
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Susan,

Very many thanks for sharing your little gems with us! They are beautiful! Yes, it is the sense of whimsy that really attracts me too! I knew we shared a similar taste in textiles!

I feel with these purses that thre is such a lot of concentration and sheer joy in their creation. I love #3 - I suppose that is partly the fading that has happened and it would have been much brighter and 'in your face' when it was first made.

I have been very remiss in not coming back and posting Steven Frosts further translations of the images from the Hunan Fine Arts book on Hunan embroidery. He sent them to me days ago and I just haven't had the time on concentrating on applying text to particular images.

Steven has numbered the translations 1-12. I will try and apply this numbering to the page numbering above with 'top', 'bottom' etc. He says in cover
Quote:
"My very incomplete translation. Its all I can do right now. Ethnic groups are only mentioned on Yao pieces. For the ones in Changde and Yuanling the artists are probably Han. Others may be Han as well, but they do not say. These are from a large geographic area spread all around the western half of Hunan."

Thus only a few of the items are Jianghua Yao. I am going to try and add slightly larger images of the Jianghua Yao items.

1) Yuanling County (towards northwest Hunan). In the collection of Yuanling Museum. This is designed to hang on a wall and keep various and sundry things inside. (no ethnic attribution) - top page 74

2) Embroidered bag for miscellaneous things, Melon seed pattern MaYang County, Mayang Cultural Center Collection It describes a couple of stitching techniques I am not familiar with, representations of pomegranates, buddha hand, lotus flower, gourd and peach. (no ethnic attribution) - bottom page 74

3) Yao lotus purse Pheonix and rooster pattern 12 x 9cm, eight treasure pattern 15x 9cm, Jianghua Yao Autonomous County, Hunan Masses Art Museum Colllection. The two styles are very different, the second example is especially old and has begun changing color. Top two bags page 75

4) Embroidered Lotus bags, Yiyang County Hunan Masses Art Museum Collection left: 16 x 9 cm. right: 16 x 9.5 cm. There is a detailed description of colloquially named stitching techiniques of which...unfortunately only the "dazi" techinique is familiar to me. Bottom two bags page 75

5) Embroidered Lotus Bags, Changde Area Both bags illustrate scenes from operas. left:20 x 9 right: 18 x 9 Top two bags page 76

6)Embroidered Lotus bag, Jianghua Yao, Butterfly and Peony Design, 12 x 12 cm. Hunan Masses Art Museum Collection Bottom bag page 76

7) Embroidered Lotus bag, Jianghua Yao, Top bag page 77

8. Embroidered Lotus Bag, Yuanling County, Yuanling County Museum. Peony and Tiger's Head Looking Back. Bottom bag page 77

9) Tobacco Bag, Yuanling County, Yuanling County Museum Collection, Butterfly and Peony Design. Top bag page 78

10) Embroidered Back Bag (Fanny pack?) Yiyang County. The main design is a monkey hanging from a tree along with a bee. This expresses a wish that the people's simple desires can become reality. Bottom bag page 78

11) Embroidered Back Bag (fanny pack?) Butterfly and Peony design, Mayang County, Zhang Gong Village, Made by Huang Guilan, Private Collection. Top two bags page 79

12) Embroidered Back Bag, Mayang County, Dabanjiang Village, Private Collection Bottom two bags page 79


Attachments:
File comment: 3) Yao lotus purse Pheonix and rooster pattern 12 x 9cm, Jianghua Yao Autonomous County, Hunan Masses Art Museum Colllection. The two styles are very different. Top two bags page 75 - left hand bag
FEH75wtopleft.jpg
FEH75wtopleft.jpg [ 89.29 KiB | Viewed 9622 times ]
File comment: 3) eight treasure pattern 15x 9cm, Jianghua Yao Autonomous County, Hunan Masses Art Museum Colllection. The two styles are very different, the second example is especially old and has begun changing color. Top two bags page 75 - right hand bag
FEH75wtopright.jpg
FEH75wtopright.jpg [ 72.09 KiB | Viewed 9621 times ]
File comment: 6)Embroidered Lotus bag, Jianghua Yao, Butterfly and Peony Design, 12 x 12 cm. Hunan Masses Art Museum Collection Bottom bag page 76.
FEH76wbottom.jpg
FEH76wbottom.jpg [ 77.48 KiB | Viewed 9621 times ]
File comment: 7) Embroidered Lotus bag, Jianghua Yao, Top bag page 77. Yao embroidered lotus purse Animal and Supreme Ultimate (in Chinese mythology the source of all things) totem
FEH77wtop.jpg
FEH77wtop.jpg [ 79.51 KiB | Viewed 9621 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 2:10 pm 
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Martin Conlan has sent me images of further Jianghua Yao embroidery which, at the risk of boring people (and I don't care because I think they are small textiles miracles!) I am going to post them here. There will be four posts grouping together the different functional pieces. (As functional items these are pretty extraordinary! Just think of the hours of work involved in the posts on this one thread!!!)

Martin comments with Baguo 2: "symbol can be attached to clothing, bags to bring good luck"


Attachments:
JianghuaYaoBaguo1aw.jpg
JianghuaYaoBaguo1aw.jpg [ 63.79 KiB | Viewed 9468 times ]
JianghuaYaoBaguo2w.jpg
JianghuaYaoBaguo2w.jpg [ 64.56 KiB | Viewed 9468 times ]
JianghuaYaoBaguo3w.jpg
JianghuaYaoBaguo3w.jpg [ 65.17 KiB | Viewed 9468 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 2:16 pm 
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A group of pillow ends. The top 3 ends are a simlar size, the bottom pair are smaller:


Attachments:
JianghuaYaoPillowEnd1w.jpg
JianghuaYaoPillowEnd1w.jpg [ 69.87 KiB | Viewed 9460 times ]
JianghuaYaoPillowEndsPair1w.jpg
JianghuaYaoPillowEndsPair1w.jpg [ 63.31 KiB | Viewed 9460 times ]
JianghuaYaoPillowEndsx-2w.jpg
JianghuaYaoPillowEndsx-2w.jpg [ 45.89 KiB | Viewed 9460 times ]

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Last edited by Pamela on Mon Feb 09, 2009 9:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 2:19 pm 
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some purses...


Attachments:
JianghuaYaoBatPursew.jpg
JianghuaYaoBatPursew.jpg [ 50.82 KiB | Viewed 9452 times ]
JianghuaYaoOldPursew.jpg
JianghuaYaoOldPursew.jpg [ 45.95 KiB | Viewed 9452 times ]
JianghuaYaoPursesx2bw.jpg
JianghuaYaoPursesx2bw.jpg [ 65.71 KiB | Viewed 9452 times ]
JianghuaYaoBeltPurse1w.jpg
JianghuaYaoBeltPurse1w.jpg [ 55.05 KiB | Viewed 9452 times ]
JianghuaYaoBaguoPursesx2aw.jpg
JianghuaYaoBaguoPursesx2aw.jpg [ 45.6 KiB | Viewed 9452 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 2:21 pm 
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... and some pouches, worn at the front attached to a belt...


Attachments:
JianghuaYaoPouch1w.jpg
JianghuaYaoPouch1w.jpg [ 79.64 KiB | Viewed 9446 times ]
JianghuaYaoPouch2w.jpg
JianghuaYaoPouch2w.jpg [ 68.37 KiB | Viewed 9446 times ]
JianghuaYaoPouch3w.jpg
JianghuaYaoPouch3w.jpg [ 65.29 KiB | Viewed 9445 times ]

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 Post subject: Unknown bag
PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 5:13 am 
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I purchased this little bag/purse from a friend in Taiwan who said she collected it in Guizhou Province in 1986. I have no idea to which group it belongs although it seems to have strong Han overtones - the pig teeth being an exception!
There are three compartments: two accessed directly from the top and a third closed by a flap bearing a butterfly, crane and flower.
The lower body of the bag depicts a fine qilin and phoenix picked out in gold thread on pink silk.
The bag can also be attached to a belt by a loop incorporated as the back of the bag.


Attachments:
File comment: Front view
35079-35069_miao_pouch_001w.jpg
35079-35069_miao_pouch_001w.jpg [ 138.14 KiB | Viewed 7717 times ]
File comment: Front flap
35079-35069_miao_pouch_003w.jpg
35079-35069_miao_pouch_003w.jpg [ 93.33 KiB | Viewed 7717 times ]
File comment: Front lower section
35079-35069_miao_pouch_005w.jpg
35079-35069_miao_pouch_005w.jpg [ 102.82 KiB | Viewed 7717 times ]
File comment: Top view of bag
35079-35069_miao_pouch_007w.jpg
35079-35069_miao_pouch_007w.jpg [ 71.74 KiB | Viewed 7717 times ]
File comment: Base of bag
35079-35069_miao_pouch_008w.jpg
35079-35069_miao_pouch_008w.jpg [ 68.45 KiB | Viewed 7717 times ]
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