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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2003 5:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2003 7:27 pm
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Location: USA
Here's one from the closet that I rediscovered as I begin the difficult process of cataloging my collection. I thought it would be fun to list a few from the Indonesian Islands. If anyone would like to comment or add to the description that would be great!
Measurements: 58cm x 102 cm closed, (116cm x 102cm if opened). Woven in two panels. Handspun Cotton, Natural Dyes. Circa: Pre-World War II.

http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rgmook ... m=6cef.jpg
Best, Richard


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Last edited by richard mook on Mon Oct 06, 2003 9:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 8:49 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 1:42 pm
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Richard,

An attractive piece and it does not seem to be too common in the textile collections. I see that there are a few pages - 192-195 on South Maluccan textiles in 'Splendid Symbols: Textiles and Tradition in Indonesia' by Mattiebelle Gittinger. Photos in black and white so difficult to compare with your example.

Thanks for sharing with us. Good luck with the cataloguing. A challenge indeed!

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2003 4:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2003 6:34 pm
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Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
Richard- Sorry, but the link to the photo does not seem to be working, or I cannot access it. The piece sounds interesting...
Cheers,
Susan


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 Post subject: New Link
PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2003 5:24 pm 
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Hello everyone,

It appears that my internet service via Yahoo has deleted a number of my files. Some I have recovered, others may be lost. Anyway, the following link should work:

http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rgmook ... ar&.view=t

Please let me know if you find any other missing links.

Best regards,
Richard


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 3:41 pm 
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Location: Portugal
Hallo Richard,

I only just stumble upon this ten year old posting of yours. The cloth you show is fairly similar to two of mine, http://ikat.us/ikat_080.php and http://ikat.us/ikat_079.php. See attached images. If you know which island these might be from I would appreciate it if you shared the information.

Kind regards,
Peter

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File comment: Tanimbar sarong, Pusaka Collection #079
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ikat_new_079.jpg [ 299.54 KiB | Viewed 7178 times ]

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File comment: Tanimbar sarong, Pusaka Collection #080
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ikat_080.jpg [ 224.5 KiB | Viewed 7178 times ]

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PUSAKA COLLECTION: ONLINE MUSEUM OF TRADITIONAL INDONESIAN IKAT TEXTILES


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 4:45 pm 
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Hello Peter, I'm not sure what else I can add. I'll try to look and see what other information I can provide. Unfortunately, many of my records are missing due to my stupidity and a computer crash. I'll let you know. Best.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 8:09 pm 
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Dear Richard,
I am sorry about your computer issues. They appear to be not uncommon among members of the forum (ask Pamela about stories of woe). Could it be a bug nestling in the interstices of old textiles?

The only additional thing I would love to know is what islands the cloths are from, and what clan or status they represent. Van Vuuren's book is very informative on details, but not as helpful as I had wished on identifying provenance. There are also some mystery cloths out there that some people tentatively identify as Tanimbarese, which seems not unlikely on the one hand, but on the other hand is not supported by published sources. One of them is on the site of the no longer functioning Indokain: http://www.indokain.com/springsale/handspun_sarong-22.html Do you recognize this as Tanimbar? Or something else for that matter?

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Ikat - Tanimbar (tentatively) - Indokain.jpg
Ikat - Tanimbar (tentatively) - Indokain.jpg [ 137.28 KiB | Viewed 7160 times ]


I recently bought on auction a sarong fairly similar to the Indokain specimen, but which came with an Alor provenance that does not quite convince me. I shall put it up separately one of these days, as it links in to a recent thread on textiles from the Kabola peninsula.

Kind regards,
Peter

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PUSAKA COLLECTION: ONLINE MUSEUM OF TRADITIONAL INDONESIAN IKAT TEXTILES


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:24 pm 
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A seller on ebay here in Australia recently auctioned this similar Tanimbar piece said to have been collected in Maluku in 1975, but with no other information on provenance.


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Tanimbar ikat 2.jpg [ 152.65 KiB | Viewed 7008 times ]
Tanimbar ikat4.jpg
Tanimbar ikat4.jpg [ 232.7 KiB | Viewed 7008 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 11:11 am 
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Dear Bambang,

So far I have made it a habit to say positive things about textiles that people post only, and if I could not, to just shut up. But in this case, as I get the impression that you did not buy this cloth and thus will not be hurt by criticism, I shall make an exception. You may have noticed that the sarong you show attracted very little bidding. The reasons I think are obvious. This bakan may have been collected in 1975, but certainly does not look a day older. In fact I would not be surprised if it had been made in the 1990s.

But whatever its true age, I think the main reason why it attracted so little attention is its 'perindustrian' look. The loom patterns are pretty, but too well defined. They don't bring to mind a wizened old Tanimbarese lady deftly tying up bundles of thread in the shade of her hut. I also did not quite like the coloring of the pale blue stripes, which do not suggest a short steeping in indigo. I am not even sure about the greys. Could it all be Tintex? I believe that we shall see more pieces like this in the coming years as villagers are catching on to the growing international market for 'traditional' textiles, and are prodded into production by NGOs. Which of course is not a bad idea at all, as it helps bring them above subsistence level. And at that kind of price these works make a nice piece of home decoration, cheaper and prettier than most of the stuff for sale in western decorators' shops. Stuff it with two pillows and you got a great bolster.

Keep up the good work of showing what you notice out there!

Kind regards,
Peter

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PUSAKA COLLECTION: ONLINE MUSEUM OF TRADITIONAL INDONESIAN IKAT TEXTILES


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 1:13 pm 
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I agree with you Peter. It was probably new when collected and has commercial thread and chemical dyes but the ikat skill is still there. I guess we should be glad they are still producing them at all. It was cheap and the person who bought it is probably happy to have a Tanimbar piece in their collection--they are not easy to find these days!

When Darwiko came back to Bali from Tanimbar in the late 70s or early 80s, a trip in his new cruiser, he had four huge piles of Tanimbar textiles, both sarongs and selendangs. They were all hand spun with natural dyes and priced a hair above what this piece sold for. I spent an hour going through them and picked out the best dozen which I still have but if I had known then what I know now I would have bought a gross!! Life is a learning process and that WAS a lot of money in those days. Ah, those good old days, where have they gone?

Where did you get your copy of the book "Ikat Textiles of Tanimbar"? I have looked for a copy but they must not have printed many as I can't find one for sale. Thought surely this book would tell us which types of textiles came from which islands in the Tanimbar group--even which village perhaps. Will I be disappointed when I finally find a copy?

Peter, your recently acquired Tanimbar sarong which is similar to the one Indokain had, may be a lesser ranked piece and perhaps even a sarong for daily wear and not one used for the bride's dowry. I can't be sure but as it has only two simple bands of ikat and a plain striped center it would be much easier to produce than a sarong with multiple ikat bands. The textiles of Eastern Flores and Solor are also ranked in this manner with bridewealth pieces having more bands of complicated ikat motifs. In Solor I saw women wearing sarongs with a very similar layout to your Tanimbar piece with just the two simple bands of ikat and stripes, while bridewealth sarongs (kewatek mean) were predominantly red, three panels and had multiple bands of intricate ikat. The hole in the hem of your piece would also indicate that it was worn and used rather than stored away for the bride's dowry. I may be totally wrong and the difference may simply be due to the fact that this type comes from a different island, village or clan.

There is so little info available on Tanimbar that I am just shooting in the dark when comparing Tanimbar to other areas that I know better from visiting them and on which more information is available. Your sarong is a nice, old, hand spun textile with natural colors and I am sure a prized addition to your wonderful collection. Perhaps someday we will have more detailed information on the textiles of Tanimbar. Perhaps someday we may even have a member from Tanimbar who can give us firsthand information. Wouldn't that be great!!

Best regards


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 4:13 pm 
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Hi Mac,
Glad you concur. Indeed, Tanimbar ikat is not easy to find these days - which had me wavering for a while. But I am getting too old to be going after pieces that excite me less than the ones I already have - unless they are very intriguing, in which case sometimes I buy stuff that after the acquisition make me wonder why the hell I got them. The truth is that I keep being fascinated by the unknown - the same drive that drove Portuguese like Henry the Seafarer and many other explorers to go out from the safety of our sheltered port here, Lagos, to the ends of the earth, with full certainty of pain and no certainty of gain. The other day I posted a mystery cloth (Sikka?) acquired in that spirit. To some perhaps a dishcloth, but to me a mystery that I will try to solve.

Ah, Derwika - yes, what a fine dealer he was. Knowledgeable and honest. Unfortunately I only discovered him in 1994 by which time you and other ikat fiends had already picked out the greatest treasures, and his prices were no longer really low. For the seven pieces I bought off him I had to shell out two hundred fifty dollars a piece on average. But beautiful pieces, well worth the price! (The old motto: the hurt of a high price is soon forgotten, whereas the beauty is a joy forever.)

I bought a copy of Van Vuuren's Tanimbar book online off Gallery Lemaire in Amsterdam. The lady who runs it these days is Lemaire's daughter Finette. Say hello if you contact her. I think you will find the book well worth the minuscule investment. It is oddly organized but has tons of information that someone who has had the pickings up Derwika's stash is sure to find valuable. It also has pages full of comps with other regions, e.g. Philippines that I find not so much enriching as confusing, but that may be due to my narrow focus on Ikat from the Indonesian isles. Where the book disappoints, is as a guide to pin down provenance. There is a paucity of examples from the different islands that let you get a feel for their individual characteristics.

As for my recent acquisition, I think you may well be right, so I have toned down the copy a little and removed the word 'festive' - though part of me protests, the reason being that it has such a strong presence and fine detailing. And a prize addition indeed it is. (Curious is also how the bidding went. Most of the pieces on the auction were bid up very slowly, struggling to reach or exceed their low estimate, several taking two to three minutes, but this one shot up like dengue fever, bid following bid within seconds). The main sign of wear is a small hole, the cut in the edge I am afraid is very recent. I think somebody carelessly sliced open a package with a box cutter and hit the hem - that is how clean and recent the cut looks. A shame, but it was a known defect.

I agree that on several other islands a bridewealth sarong would be done predominantly or only in morinda - but doesn't that that apply mostly to Middle and Eastern Flores and the neighbouring Lamaholot speaking islands? Indeed, we know so little about Tanimbar! Actually I hope to travel there in one of the upcoming years. Not in the hope of finding treasures (better chances in The Hague or California I suppose), but to get a feel for the place. And, ideally learn a little more about the cloths from the region that I acquired. Every tidbit helps.

Cheers,
Peter

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Peter ten Hoopen
www.ikat.us

PUSAKA COLLECTION: ONLINE MUSEUM OF TRADITIONAL INDONESIAN IKAT TEXTILES


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