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 Post subject: Children's clothing
PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 11:36 am 
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Am struggling to identify this tiny jacket and it is some time before books arrive to help... (patience is still a virtue to be learnt :oops: ). The body measures 38 cm across whilst being 28 cm from shoulder to bottom. The sleeves are 25cm long each side. The embrodiery panel that goes all the way around the base of the of the jacket is made of three parts joined at the sides. The collar/front opening trim is comprised of two pieces joined at the back of the collar. The embroidery itself appears to almost float on top of the white background. Each embroidered section (collar/front opening; sleeve cuffs and base panel) is different in appearance.
Regards
Iain


Attachments:
File comment: Child's jacket (please note the sleeves have been folded in to assist taking of photo)
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File comment: Child's jacket detail (front opening, jacket base trim and sleeve cuff)
clip_image001.jpg
clip_image001.jpg [ 79.08 KiB | Viewed 7351 times ]
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 Post subject: Possible locations
PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 10:07 am 
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In the child's jacket, shown in the previous post, the handwoven white cotton cuffs, collar and opening are attached to indigo dyed hemp cloth. On page 37 of "Miao Embroidery from South West China" edited by Ruth Smith on there is discussion under the heading 'Filled Patterns' accompanied by three scanned images which bear striking resemblance to this child's jacket. Unfortunately the entire garment is not shown but it is stated to come from Lanan Township, Luodian County, South Cental Guizhou. I quote from the book as follows:
Quote:
"The border patterns illustated on this page resemble European blackwork in design and technique. This type of counted embroidery is found on shirts and tying bands. In Taijiang and Kaiyang Counties shirts with blackwork cuffs used to be worn by the more affluent Miao under elaborately embroidered jackets. It is not known whether the Miao learned this technique from the Han Chinese or if missionaries introduced it in the nineteenth century?"
Miao Embroidery from South West China. Textiles from the Gina Corrigan Collection by Ruth Smith. Researchers: Margret Baker, Gina Corrigan, Ros Downing, Marianne Ellis, Corbi Erskine, Deryn O'Connor, Thea Nield, Jeni Pinel, Phyllis Smith and Ruth Smith. Occidor Limited. 2005. ISBN 0-9528804-1-5. page 37.
This book is an incredible insight into the multitude of techniques employed by Miao women and a very welcome addition to any library!


Last edited by iain on Sun May 06, 2007 5:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 10:46 am 
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See a post with more info on this book http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... .php?t=286

I have some similar embroidery on a couple of my (Miao) textiles especially the sort of arrow/feather embroidery - on the ends of waist sashes and almost but not quite on a set of woman's cuffs from Da Shu Jia village, Xin Zhou township, Longlin county, Guangxi province. I also found it on some photos of Miao clothing from various parts of Guizhou when I was going through my books trying to ID this child's jacket. However, there was nothing that 'clicked' as being the same overall as the jacket.

I have seen some embroidery very, very like the cuffs and it has been nagging at the back of my mind since I saw your phtoos but I can't bring it to mind. I think it is on a textile I have. If I find it when digging through my boxes I will post.

I agree about the book. There is another book on techniques currently in research for publication and I will post info as soon as it is available.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2007 1:51 pm 
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Iain

I was searching through some photos from my visit to SW China in 2005 at the weekend and, looking for 'action shots' to go with Bill's Taijiang apron, I came across this shot of a beautiful sleeve that caught my eye in in the Miao village of Da Zhai, Taipan township, Taijiang county. The bottom of the sleeve is quite different from most of those on jackets worn by other women in the village. You will recognise the rice - or is it maize? - ears in black work. The material on which the embroidery has been done seems to be folded to the inside of the sleeve and could be fairly loose. I had an image of this sleeve cuff in my mind but I never thought it was from this village.


Attachments:
File comment: Woman's jacket sleeve in the Miao village of Da Zhai, Taipan township, Taijiang county, Guizhou province 12 May 2005.
IMGP2291w.jpg
IMGP2291w.jpg [ 62.01 KiB | Viewed 7204 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2007 1:57 pm 
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... and I think this may be the lady who goes with the sleeve. I do not have a full length photo showing both and am guessing.....the silk satin brocade and embroidery around the neck of the jacket looks right.


Attachments:
File comment: women taking part in a dance in the Miao village of Da Zhai, Taipan township, Taijiang county, Guizhou Province 12 May 2005.
IMGP2292aw.jpg
IMGP2292aw.jpg [ 54.88 KiB | Viewed 7200 times ]

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Pamela

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 Post subject: Jacket sleeve
PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2007 2:56 pm 
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Eureka for the feather detailing! The coat opening is very typical of jackets in Taijiang but agree have not seen a jacket with this cuff detail on any other example. Could it possibly be an undershirt whose sleeves have been folded back onto the outside of the jacket sleeve? What a wonderful headdress she is wearing too! Many thanks for the increasing image library!
Iain


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2007 5:33 pm 
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Re Taijiang images, there are some more from the same village in Taijiang county on page 2 of the long 'Ge Jia, Rao Jia & Bailing Miao batik quilt covers, drums' thread (yes, I know, different Miao but the relevance was drums) http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... =1325#1325

I don't think it is an undershirt but just cuffs looking at how they are sort of sliding out of the jacket arms. It might in the past have been a shirt but now it is western style clothing i.e. she is wearing a white sweater underneath.

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 Post subject: Possible locations
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 12:45 pm 
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In this image, found on Steven Frost's website, a Dong woman in Rongjiang is shown wearing a white shirt with embroidered cuffs having an even greater similarity to those on this baby jacket.
http://www.stevenqfrost.net/photoarchive/showimage.php?dir=rongjiang&image=DSC_0152.jpg
Pamela, if this shirt is is similar to the one you posted above, it would appear that the embroidery is done on both sides, enabling it to be seen when turned back on the jacket sleeve.
Iain


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 1:42 pm 
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Iain

I am not sure that one can make any assumptions.

The embroidery, what we here would call 'blackwork', will appear on both sides of the piece of fabric on which it is sewn. It depends if - in the case of Steven's photo - the sleeve is a single thickness where the embroidery is also used as a finishing technique, or whether the sleeve is lined or has fabric turned back which hides the back of the embroidery.

Steven's photo of Dong sent me hunting in my photos from 2005 (now reasonably ordered after restoring from the disc disaster). I show one photo where 2 Dong girls are wearing tunics/blouses with blackwork embroidery on the sleeves. One is not lined - first arm on the left, the next arms show that the slevees are lined - or at least have the end of the sleeve turned back inside to finish off the sleeve as a wide hem. I also show a close up of the embroidery on a sleeve to see that the work is done as 'counted thread' work. Last but not least I show some textiles 'goodies' for sale. I clearly should have bought the shirt! (I bought a striped and woven bag which was just fantastic for holding textile purchases in villages and was of great interest in all of them, especially the Dong ones and some lengths of woven braid (wound in circles).) All of these photos were taken in San Bao village, Che Jiang township, Rongjiang county in May 2005. There are more than 2000 households and more than 10,000 Dong living in the 'village'. It has the tallest Dong drum tower (rebuilt not long before our visit in 2005).

By the way, thanks for reminding me of Dong blackwork. I knew that your original photo had caused echoes of remembrance and the use on Dong clothing may well have been one of the bells chimed.


Attachments:
File comment: Blackwork cuffs on women's shirts in San Bao village, Che Jiang township, Rongjiang county in May 2005
IMGP3149w.jpg
IMGP3149w.jpg [ 40.93 KiB | Viewed 6776 times ]
File comment: detail of blackwork embroidery on a cuff in the Dong village of San Bao, Che Jiang township, Rongjiang county in May 2005
IMGP3164w.jpg
IMGP3164w.jpg [ 57.98 KiB | Viewed 6776 times ]
File comment: Dong lady selling locally made textiles in San Bao village, Che Jiang township, Rongjiang county in May 2005
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01813488w.jpg [ 53.84 KiB | Viewed 6776 times ]

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