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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 2:46 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 01, 2007 11:30 am
Posts: 315
A piece I purchased recently in Taipei. Unfortunately, I have no information on this almost black piece incorporating on the sleeve the transitional ‘butterfly dragon’ design. I just LOVE this piece whose feel is just awesome. In the books I currently have access to I can not find anything similar. The individual I purchased this from said it was worn by older women. I have read that in Shidong older or middle aged women wear darker colored clothes as opposed to the bright red preferred by younger women, however, the designs seem to be at odds.
The front opening is very plain - in repeated swastikas and the fronthas a single chain stitched panel on the right hand side (about 15 cm long). The back vent has a similar panel on both right ans left sides joined at the bottom as seen in the image attached. I would really appreciate knowing more about this piece. Any insights?
Best regards
Iain


Attachments:
File comment: Miao jacket - front view
Miao-jacket-1-black-frontE.jpg
Miao-jacket-1-black-frontE.jpg [ 17.79 KiB | Viewed 11510 times ]
File comment: Miao jacket 1 (black). Sleeve top view
Miao-jacket-1-black-sleeve-.jpg
Miao-jacket-1-black-sleeve-.jpg [ 72.75 KiB | Viewed 11510 times ]
File comment: Miao jacket back vent
Miao-jacket-blck-bck-ventE.jpg
Miao-jacket-blck-bck-ventE.jpg [ 43.23 KiB | Viewed 11510 times ]
File comment: Miao jacket 1 (black). Back vent detail
Miao-jacket-1-black-back-ve.jpg
Miao-jacket-1-black-back-ve.jpg [ 57.68 KiB | Viewed 11540 times ]


Last edited by iain on Mon Sep 24, 2007 2:48 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 2:54 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 01, 2007 11:30 am
Posts: 315
three further images of the Miao jacket described above


Attachments:
File comment: Miao jacket 1 (black). Shoulder strip and collar
Miao-jacket-1-black-shoulde.jpg
Miao-jacket-1-black-shoulde.jpg [ 45.8 KiB | Viewed 11539 times ]
File comment: Miao jacket 1 (black). Right sleeve panel
Miao-jacket-1-black-right-s.jpg
Miao-jacket-1-black-right-s.jpg [ 50.23 KiB | Viewed 11539 times ]
File comment: Miao jacket 1 (black). Left sleeve panel
Miao-jacket-1-black-left-sl.jpg
Miao-jacket-1-black-left-sl.jpg [ 47.92 KiB | Viewed 11539 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 7:44 pm 
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Iain

As your CD arrived today I have been able to edit and upload the images so that they can be seen easily in the thread. I have also added in a couple of additional images that were on the CD but you did not post.

This is a very restrained and beautiful jacket. I am pretty sure that it has been over-dyed with indigo. This is a way of ‘freshening up’ an older jacket and giving it a new lease of life. It is quite usual for older women from many different Miao groups to wear a more sombre style. A jacket all in indigo would also be more practical for working in. This jacket has a relatively small amount of embroidered/applied decoration. I would think that it was made by someone who was not very rich or at a time when things were pretty difficult. It could be a piece from the Cultural Revolution period. It could also be much older than that.

I think that it is basically what is often termed ‘Taijiang style’. My particular reference book “Clothing and Ornaments of China’s Miao People” refers to this style as being quite widespread – see page 36:
Quote:
“This style of dress and ornament are fashionable in counties in the valley of Qingshui River, such as Taijiang, Huangping, Shibing, Zhenyuan, Kaili, Leishan, Jianhe, which are densely populated with the Miao nationality. A part of the Miao people in Zhenfeng Xingren and Xingyi Anlong counties in southwestern Guizhou originally came from Huangping and Taijiang counties in the Qing Dynasty. Their costumes are basically in the same style as Taijiang.”


In 2005 I visited a village in Taijiang county (12 May 2005 - Da Zhai village, Taipan township, Taijiang county, Guizhou province) which was just opening up and we were about the first group who had been welcomed into the village. We were overwhelmed by a massive turnout in festival dress. This has taken the restraint of your piece a long way! There were only a very few older women wearing jackets with a basic indigo cotton background – silk was taking over. The amount of embroidered and applied detail is in great profusion compared to yours. However, I can spot the points of folded silk ribbon on your jacket which is used as trim on jackets across the area, also a woven silk ribbon which is similarly frequently used. I can also see that your main designs are created from braid but I cannot tell if it has been gathered (or ruched). It is much more difficult to see the detail on your jacket because of the over-dyeing and the way that the indgo dye has filled in the detail.

I will try and post some photos from Da Zhai village, Taipan township, Taijiang county. I was trying earlier on but the forum kept coming up with errors and would not accept my posts!


Attachments:
File comment: 12 May 2005 - Da Zhai village, Taipan township, Taijiang county, Guizhou province. The jacket as full festival attire worn by young girls.
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File comment: 12 May 2005 - Da Zhai village, Taipan township, Taijiang county, Guizhou province.
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File comment: 12 May 2005 - Da Zhai village, Taipan township, Taijiang county, Guizhou province.
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File comment: 12 May 2005 - Da Zhai village, Taipan township, Taijiang county, Guizhou province. Note that the woman to the right has embroidery which is a more sombre colour
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01813582w.jpg [ 69.55 KiB | Viewed 11495 times ]

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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Last edited by Pamela on Thu May 24, 2007 2:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:20 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2003 5:32 pm
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Location: Paris, France
Hi Iain,
A long time I have not been on the forum.
As Pamela said this jacket come from Taijian countyand has been for sure over-dyed with indigo. I join you a picture of an old Tajiang Miao jacket.


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Miao taij03.jpg
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:21 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2003 5:32 pm
Posts: 93
Location: Paris, France
details.


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miao Taij01.jpg
miao Taij01.jpg [ 277.72 KiB | Viewed 11487 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:21 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2003 5:32 pm
Posts: 93
Location: Paris, France
details2


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miao Taij02.jpg
miao Taij02.jpg [ 265.53 KiB | Viewed 11485 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:22 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2003 5:32 pm
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Location: Paris, France
details 3


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Miao taij04.jpg
Miao taij04.jpg [ 256.17 KiB | Viewed 11483 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 11:30 am 
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Posts: 315
Many thanks both Pamela and Oliver
I had not thought to compare the stitching and was unaware of the practice of overdyeing with indigo. Comparison with a number of jackets that I have purchased and originating from Taijiang. Yes, most definetly this piece incorporates both folded silk ribbon and - like the examples both of you posted - incorporates a gold metallic foil strip into the embroidery. What can be said about the crepe embroidery WOW! dragons, phoenixes, flowers, butterflies galore! Wonderful! I will (hopefuly in the not too distant future!) upload images which are more restrained than those shown in your images Pamela. I am also assuming that the use of what appears to be blue cotton for main structure of the jackets indicates that these pieces are more recent than my own?
I was particularly excited to obtain a small restrained girls jacket from the same area this week - stunning in detail and a minature of another jacket I already own. Seven of the jackets I have collected from this region (Taijiang) all bear great similarity in border and collar design. One can wax lyrical on symbolism but best that the images speak!
Photos to follow!
Thank you both!
Regards
Iain


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 Post subject: Collar detail
PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 11:55 am 
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I share an image of a collar belonging to one of the beautiful old Taijiang jackets in my collection to build up the forum's available reference images.
On it you can see the folded silk ribbon in the form of triangles that Pamela speaks of and which Oliver has shown on, what appears to be, a somewhat smaller collar. These folded silk triangles on top of gold foil strips are a really stunning feature of all the Taijiang jackets in the collection.
This particular collar also shows a greater use of cross stitch detail particularly in the band ajoining the jacket itself (Oliver's jacket has a beautiful example of plain-weave edging stitch); as well as braided embroidery on the small central insert seen at the top of the collar itself adjacent to a red silk ground material that then extends down the front of the jacket opening.
This jacket's prominent diamond twill (pineapple twill/lozenge twill) is particularly pleasing to the eye.
The over-dyed jacket that began this thread bears many similarities to a number of jackets I have from Leishan County and are somewhat different in style to the Taijiang jackets currently discussed. Further images will hopefully arrive by photogallery as these have now been completed.
Iain
Regards
Iain


Attachments:
Taijiang 1 collar.jpg
Taijiang 1 collar.jpg [ 54.04 KiB | Viewed 11286 times ]
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 Post subject: A second Taijiang collar
PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2007 2:13 pm 
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Here is a second Taijiang collar


Attachments:
File comment: Taijian jacket 2
clip_image001.jpeg
clip_image001.jpeg [ 37.34 KiB | Viewed 11182 times ]
File comment: Taijiang Jacket 2 collar detail
clip_image001.jpg
clip_image001.jpg [ 35.75 KiB | Viewed 11182 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 2:10 am 
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Location: Bristol, England
Going back to Iain's original jacket on this thread and the re-dyeing of old clothes, in the “Imprints on Cloth” book (thanks for mentioning it on the Rao Jia baby carrier thread) on page 109, there is a small piece about the re-dyeing of clothes, which says: “Handmade clothes, which take a long time to make, are treated with respect. Throughout their use, garments are repeatedly dyed in indigo. This reconditioning increases its durability and its resistance to water and soil.”

This practice seems to be more prevalent amongst certain Miao groups, particularly those living in the Taijiang area. I’ve never seen or heard of Ge Jia, Bailing Miao or Rao Jia clothes being re-dyed (although I have some Ge Gia baby blankets that are made out of cut-up and re-dyed old woven Ge Jia skirts, and some Bailing Miao quilt covers that have been re-dyed). From what I understand, it was done by/for old women who no longer saw the need to look colourful and beautiful, and it also made the special wedding/festival garment into something that could be worn on a daily basis rather than only for special occasions. It is possible the old women wanted to be able to wear their labour of love every day until they died, perhaps reminding them of their dead family members and particularly their mothers (who more than likely helped them make their best wedding clothes). For Ge Jia women (so perhaps for some Miao groups), there is the thinking that when they die, they should be buried wearing clothes that their mothers made for them or certainly ones that their mothers would recognize so that when they entered the spirit world (heaven if you like), their mothers will be able to find them (what a lovely thought).

These comments also relate to an earlier post by Bill Hornaday: http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... .php?t=115


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 Post subject: Overdyed Leishan jacket
PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 4:07 am 
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Posts: 315
An overdyed Leishan jacket. On the sleeve panel detail two dragons are chasing a pearl above a temple shrine containing a deity. The hemp/raimie material of this jacket has a special crinkled texture to it - much emphasised by the over-dying - known as hoza. This may be more clearly seen in the uppermost part of the sleeve detail image. On page 124 of the book "Imprints on Cloth" it is stated that this hoza texture is 'which is firmly set by indigo dyeing and bean juice does not easily disappear' whilst the shiny appearance of the material is achieved by application of pig's blood.
Regards
Iain


Attachments:
File comment: Leishan overdyed jacket (front)
Full overdyed.jpg
Full overdyed.jpg [ 28.34 KiB | Viewed 10641 times ]
File comment: Right sleeve
Sleeve.jpg
Sleeve.jpg [ 52.5 KiB | Viewed 10641 times ]
File comment: Right sleeve detail
Sleeve detail.jpg
Sleeve detail.jpg [ 83.05 KiB | Viewed 10641 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 10:38 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 1:42 pm
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Location: Canterbury, UK
Iain

Yummy!!! You can tell I like it, also super photos bringing out the details. Over-dyeing, photographed in the right lighting, really brings out the sculptural quality of the individual textile techniques. (You will enjoy reading the section on dyeing and indigo finishes in the 'Minority Textile Techniques: Costumes from South West China'. This section is written by Gina Corrigan based on her research over the years in many villages http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... php?t=1034 )

As an aside, I started off looking at your first post on this thread back on 13 March 2007. It struck me what great strides you have made in just 5 months since starting your immersion 'course' in Chinese minority textiles!!

This is a lovely piece for itself and as part of its culture in a collection of fine pieces which are testaments to their makers. It also makes the transition to today's world as a beautiful, timeless, subtle item of clothing.

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Pamela

http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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 Post subject: Taijiang jacket images
PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:08 am 
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Posts: 315
To further expand the forum image library here is another Taijiang jacket in my collection. Unlike the others the indigo dyed hemp?/raimie? of this jacket does not have the lozenge/diamond/pineapple twill weave and is significantly lighter in weight. The silk ground used for the flat couched handmade braiding is a light purple colour. This is not reflected too well in these images where it appears rather bright. The front opening is lavishly bordered in cross stitch appliqued strips. This particular jacket has a strong preponderance of flowers and fruits (pomegranates, peach and lychee) with nary a butterfly, dragon or phoenix in sight. The base edge is embellished with green cross stitch embroidery whilst the side vents are strengthened using a hemp cross stitched and appliqued strip.
I will post some more flamboyant jackets which use a significant amount of needle weaving in the decoration shortly. In the meantime here are the current images!
Iain


Attachments:
File comment: Jacket full front view
TJ22 front.jpg
TJ22 front.jpg [ 29.18 KiB | Viewed 10371 times ]
File comment: Collar front view showing folded silk triangular with gold metallic foil applique; couched flat braidwork and cross stitch embroidery. Also visible are the adjacent shoulder panels
Collar front.jpg
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File comment: Front opening detail
Font opening.jpg
Font opening.jpg [ 95.38 KiB | Viewed 10371 times ]
File comment: Back view of collar showing typical rectangular panel in centre
Collar back.jpg
Collar back.jpg [ 31.92 KiB | Viewed 10371 times ]
File comment: Right hand sleeve detail of flat couched braids
Sleeve.jpg
Sleeve.jpg [ 80.02 KiB | Viewed 10371 times ]
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 Post subject: Taijiang jacket images
PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 3:13 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 01, 2007 11:30 am
Posts: 315
Here is another jacket from Taijiang quite different to those already posted. Again the body of the jacket is made of heavily indigo-dyed hemp/raimie using a lozenge twill weave and is incredibly heavy. The inner lining (plain weave hemp/raimie) is similarly dyed except for the lower extremities of the front inner lining which is dyed a significantly lighter blue.
The sleeves are constructed using hemp/raimie in a plain weave.
Of particular interest here is the extensive use of needle weaving embroidery to depict the varied various floral and foliate designs on the collar, front openings, and both sleeve and shoulder panels. All needle weaving and plain embroidery is done on a black silk ground whilst cross stitch embroidery is done on appliqued undyed hemp. On the back of this jacket's collar the centrally inserted rectangular panel is clearly visible in conjunction with the folded silk triangles couched over gold metallic foil.
Iain


Attachments:
File comment: Jacket front view
Front full.jpg
Front full.jpg [ 23.98 KiB | Viewed 10350 times ]
File comment: Jacket back view
Back full.jpg
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File comment: Collar back view with clearly visible centrally inserted rectangular panel, cross stitch embroidery and appliqued folded silk triangles couched over gold metallic foil
Collar back view.jpg
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File comment: Left sleeve front detail
Left sleeve front detail.jpg
Left sleeve front detail.jpg [ 95.42 KiB | Viewed 10350 times ]
File comment: Right sleeve back view
Right sleeve back detail.jpg
Right sleeve back detail.jpg [ 81.55 KiB | Viewed 10350 times ]
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