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 Post subject: Miao skirt query
PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 2:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 01, 2007 11:30 am
Posts: 315
Thought I would share images of this skirt I recently purchased here in Taiwan
Regards
Iain

This, according to the woman who collected this piece, comes from Lewang, Wangmo Co., Guizhou. Looking through “Miao Textile Design” ISBN 957 9000 026, pp250-251, there is a very similar piece. The similarity of the cross stich panel, appliqué technique and colour as well as the batik design is so strikingly similar that I wonder whether they were made by the same person!


Attachments:
File comment: Miao skirt, Wangmo Co., Guizhou full view
Miao-skirt1Ea.jpg
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File comment: Miao skirt, Wangmo Co., Guizhou. Close up of unfinished vertical edge
Miao-skirt-det2E.jpg
Miao-skirt-det2E.jpg [ 68.1 KiB | Viewed 12061 times ]
File comment: Miao skirt, Wangmo Co.. Close up of batik, cross stitch and applique
Miao-skirt-detail1E.jpg
Miao-skirt-detail1E.jpg [ 61.68 KiB | Viewed 12061 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 6:04 pm 
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Location: Canterbury, UK
Iain

Your CD arrived today so I have been able to substitute direct, reduced jpegs for both of your posts for instant gratification of viewers.

Looking at this skirt it looks very similar to some I saw in a village in a trip to Guizhou in 2001. What makes me link your skirt to the village is what looks like yellow silk felt squares applied in squares on your skirt. It is one of the many sets of my photos that are awaiting being turned into photogalleries for the website! Oh dear!! I will see about posting a couple of photos. The skirts are not identical but clearly of a similar style. Remember that my photos were taken in 2001. Your skirt looks to be an older one. I think that the wax resist in your skirt is on hemp or ramie. You can't tell by looking whether it is hemp or ramie and both may be used in the same village. I will look out a photo of one of the older women wearing a skirt and then of the young girls in festival attire. There were a couple of very nice skirts for sale in the village but I did not buy as these skirts - especially if hemp or ramie - are very heavy. I think I have a photo of the silk felt squares being applied. The silk felt is made from the cocoon of the silkworm.

I was also struck by how similar these Miao skirts are to those of the Hmong found in Thailand and the collars are also similar to ones seen near Chiang Mai. The older woman in the photos I hope to post is wearing her collar with the reverse showing which is the traditional Miao/Hmong style. The younger girls do not have their reversed. Things change especially for the dance troupes who enter competitions. As you will know the Hmong in Thailand (and elsewhere) are part of earlier migrations of Miao from S W China.

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Pamela

http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 6:29 pm 
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As promised photos taken on 30 October 2001 in Bai Jia Po village, Feng Ting township, Luodian county, Guizhou province.

The photos show the young girls in the village - who make up a dance troupe which competes in dance competitions - as well as older women wearing the traditional skirts as 'everyday' wear. There are some shots of the silk felt being applied to a skirt. The detail shows the background yellow square being applied. This will then have another, smaller, darker yellow square applied 'en point' on top of the first yellow square.

I haven't, so far, tried to find the location given to you for your skirt, Stephen, to see how close this is to Loudian.


Attachments:
File comment: 30 October 2001 in Bai Jia Po village, Feng Ting township, Luodian county, Guizhou province. Backview of older woman wearing traditional costume.
V1406w.jpg
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File comment: 30 October 2001 in Bai Jia Po village, Feng Ting township, Luodian county, Guizhou province. Older women wearing traditional costume
V1423w.jpg
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File comment: 30 October 2001 in Bai Jia Po village, Feng Ting township, Luodian county, Guizhou province. Detail of skirt including silk felt applique.
V1410w.jpg
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File comment: 30 October 2001 in Bai Jia Po village, Feng Ting township, Luodian county, Guizhou province. Detail of silk felt applieque with yellow silk cocoon resting on textile
V1419w.jpg
V1419w.jpg [ 59.44 KiB | Viewed 12041 times ]
File comment: 30 October 2001 in Bai Jia Po village, Feng Ting township, Luodian county, Guizhou province - young girls in festival costume dancing
V1433w.jpg
V1433w.jpg [ 64.1 KiB | Viewed 12041 times ]

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Pamela

http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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 Post subject: Miao skirt and a cape
PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 3:43 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 01, 2007 11:30 am
Posts: 315
Pamela
Thank you for all that information (and for reposting my images :D ). The photos you posted are indeed striking in their similarity and even more so to another skirt that I have. These yellow silk felt squares are exactly as you describe and indeed, on closer inspection, appear to be made of raw silk.
I wonder about the appearance of the cross (almost Maltese in some instances) design? There is a very similar design appearing on a number of young mens' capes that I have. See image below.
These skirts are both heavy and bulky and the yes made of hemp. It would be interesting to make a comparison across counties to see how the designs morph. Guizhou is calling :D
Again many thanks
iain


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File comment: Miao cape detail
M-cape-detE.jpg
M-cape-detE.jpg [ 63 KiB | Viewed 12024 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 9:37 am 
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Location: Canterbury, UK
Ah, but this is quite a different Miao group and the techniques are different also!

This is the style of cape which is often referred to as coming from Weining county. The 'Clothing and Ornaments of China's Miao People' gives more detailed info on the spread of this Miao group (page 142):
Quote:
"This style of clothing and ornament are popular mainly in the Bijie area of Guizhou province. The Miao people of this area are of two kinds, one kind is commonly called the 'small floral Miao' people (or we might say 'small flower Miao'), there are abut 100,00 of them (first edition of book published in 1985), they lived on the south bank of the Liuchong river, many of them lived in Hezhang, Nayong and Shuicheng. Another kind is commonly called the 'Wooden comb Miao' people, they lived on the north bank of the Liuchong river, many of them lived in Bijie, Dafang, some of them lived in the suburbs of Guiyang, Anshun, Wiening, a few lived in Yunan."
Both men and women wear this style of cape/jacket.

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Pamela

http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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 Post subject: Another skirt
PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 9:15 am 
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Posts: 315
Here is a second skirt, this time from Loudian County, and very similar to the first posted. You will see the similarities in use of wax resist on hemp/ramie; use of silk floss cross stitch and machine made cotton applique bands;and the use of appliqued silk felt pieces. The differences are subtle and include the use of a floral printed cotton to add dimension to the wax resist design and the incorporation of small squares of appliqued cotton and silk pieces accompanined by chain and satin stitch embroidery in the large wax resist band.


Attachments:
Skirt 1.jpg
Skirt 1.jpg [ 52.96 KiB | Viewed 11850 times ]
Skirt 1 detail1.jpg
Skirt 1 detail1.jpg [ 75.75 KiB | Viewed 11850 times ]
Skirt 1 detail2.jpg
Skirt 1 detail2.jpg [ 57.03 KiB | Viewed 11850 times ]
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