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 Post subject: Miao Jacket Query
PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 7:51 am 
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Posts: 315
I was reading the form posted earlier by Edwin and I wonder if one of the jackets that I have is similar to what he describes. Both the sleeves and back are done as a wax resist using predominantly blue and red with a little yello too. The collar and front opening trim are exquistly done in applique (red, blue white and black) using red and white thread and incorporate a repeating cross stitch motif in green and red. The front breast insert has the same applique border but incorporates a different cross stich design using two central points of origin using red, green, blue and orange.
The wax resist design on the back of this jacket is amazing although the right sleeve has some damage. The 'tail' of the jacket is extended using a repeated applique border around a thick cross stiched panel. There are then a further five cross stitch panels sepaated by red and black applique bands.
The lining of the jacket appears to be rather modern and is a terrible floral pattern in pink, blue, black and white.
This was the first piece I purchased 3 months ago and the bug has bitten! Expanding my extensive collection of textiles - which has focused entirely on African textiles.
Would it be possible to submit further images for information on possible origin as my Mandarin is currently non-existent and a stumbling block to gathering information? At present I belive most of the pieces I have collected (30 odd at last count) are predominantly Miao but have many questions!
For instance, one of the pieces I have appears to be rather stiff particaulary at the seams and creases. It is of a dark indigo color - almost black and quite shiny. I intuit that this is from being beatenwith egg?blood? My question is: Is there some way of preserving this textile? Should I be concerned with the stiffness of the material and the appearance of stress almost cracking at close inspection?
Thank you too for the information re books - an enjoyable weekend will be spent hunting them down in Taipei!
(Sorry will submit the ohoto again as it was a massive 4.5MB!)
Regards
Iain Stephens


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:10 am 
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Dear Stephen

I will go through your post making a few comments - see bold type. First of all, good to have you participating in the forum - welcome!

Quote:
I was reading the form posted earlier by Edwin and I wonder if one of the jackets that I have is similar to what he describes. Both the sleeves and back are done as a wax resist using predominantly blue and red with a little yello too. The collar and front opening trim are exquistly done in applique (red, blue white and black) using red and white thread and incorporate a repeating cross stitch motif in green and red. The front breast insert has the same applique border but incorporates a different cross stich design using two central points of origin using red, green, blue and orange. Diffifult to say without seeing a photo - I note at the end of the post your problems with this and will comment there.
The wax resist design on the back of this jacket is amazing although the right sleeve has some damage. The 'tail' of the jacket is extended using a repeated applique border around a thick cross stiched panel. There are then a further five cross stitch panels sepaated by red and black applique bands.
The lining of the jacket appears to be rather modern and is a terrible floral pattern in pink, blue, black and white. This is quite normal - attractive to the maker and easily available in the market. Will also protect the skin or under blouse from indigo rub off.This was the first piece I purchased 3 months ago and the bug has bitten! Oh dear! Monique's textile virus by the sound of it. No cure I am afraid! Expanding my extensive collection of textiles - which has focused entirely on African textiles.
Would it be possible to submit further images for information on possible origin as my Mandarin is currently non-existent and a stumbling block to gathering information? At present I belive most of the pieces I have collected (30 odd at last count) are predominantly Miao but have many questions! We would love to see photos of the textiles that you have collected. We will do our best based on collective member experience and our libraries. Sometimes an ID may come some time later as our own experience grows.
For instance, one of the pieces I have appears to be rather stiff particaulary at the seams and creases. It is of a dark indigo color - almost black and quite shiny. I intuit that this is from being beatenwith egg?blood? My question is: Is there some way of preserving this textile? Should I be concerned with the stiffness of the material and the appearance of stress almost cracking at close inspection? A very dark indigo is built up by frequent dyeing and indigo binds to the fibres, it does not change the chemical make-up of them. This can make the seams (or any multiple layers) pretty stiff. It could be as a result of egg white or possibly pigs blood. The Miao/Dong themselves would preserve by keeping the textile carefully and avoiding water. Festivals can be literally rained off as the girls will not risk going out in the rain in their beautiful costumes. Shine can also be created by beating the indigo dyed fabric or by rubbing i.e. calendering I am afraid that cracking of the surface is natural with wear.Thank you too for the information re books - an enjoyable weekend will be spent hunting them down in Taipei!
(Sorry will submit the photo again as it was a massive 4.5MB!) The forum will not accept images over 500k. Forum rules (at least a plea or protocol!) can be seen at http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... .php?t=178 If large images are posted I tend to come along, save them, edit them and then re-post. I don't know what photo software you have. You want to crop to max 600 px wide and then 'save for the web' to reduce file size to about 60k If you have real problems just post (as long as under 500k) and I will do my best to sort out. Regards
Iain Stephens

I look forward to 'meeting' you further on the forum and seeing your collection. Members enjoy seeing images!

Very best wishes,

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 9:14 am 
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Here are the images of the jacket described above


Attachments:
File comment: jacket 2 front view
jckt-2-frntE.jpg
jckt-2-frntE.jpg [ 56.97 KiB | Viewed 10084 times ]
File comment: jacket 2 front batik detail1
jckt-2-frnt-btk-det1E.jpg
jckt-2-frnt-btk-det1E.jpg [ 71.76 KiB | Viewed 10084 times ]
File comment: jacket 2 breast panel
jckt-2-brst-pnlE.jpg
jckt-2-brst-pnlE.jpg [ 53.91 KiB | Viewed 10084 times ]
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 Post subject: Miao jacket 2
PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 9:22 am 
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Further images of the jacket above :)


Attachments:
File comment: jacket 2 back view lower section
jckt2-bck-view-lwrE.jpg
jckt2-bck-view-lwrE.jpg [ 78.89 KiB | Viewed 10082 times ]
File comment: jacket 2 back view lower section detail 1a
jckt2-bck-lwr-det1aE.jpg
jckt2-bck-lwr-det1aE.jpg [ 71.65 KiB | Viewed 10082 times ]
File comment: jacket 2 back view lower section detail 1
jckt2-bck-lwr-det1E.jpg
jckt2-bck-lwr-det1E.jpg [ 72.07 KiB | Viewed 10082 times ]
File comment: jacket 2 left sleeve top view
jckt2-lft-slv--tpE.jpg
jckt2-lft-slv--tpE.jpg [ 43.79 KiB | Viewed 10082 times ]
File comment: jacket 2 left sleeve front
jckt2-lft-slv-frntE.jpg
jckt2-lft-slv-frntE.jpg [ 54.58 KiB | Viewed 10082 times ]
jacket 2 back view lower section.doc [148 KiB]
Downloaded 462 times
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 9:27 am 
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Last set of Miao jacket 2 images


Attachments:
File comment: jacket 2 back view top
jckt2-bck-tpE.jpg
jckt2-bck-tpE.jpg [ 74.82 KiB | Viewed 10081 times ]
File comment: jacket 2 back view lower section
jckt2-bck-lwrE.jpg
jckt2-bck-lwrE.jpg [ 84.33 KiB | Viewed 10081 times ]
File comment: jacket 2 back view top section detail 1
jckt2-bck-tp-detl1E.jpg
jckt2-bck-tp-detl1E.jpg [ 70.67 KiB | Viewed 10081 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 2:10 pm 
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My apologies for not linking this to Edwin's earlier post
http://www.tribaltextiles.info/community/viewtopic.php?t=923 Moral of the story: Read the entire post! Thank you for the information provided in the above post with details and photos from the book. I now know that this is a Long Horn Miao piece!
Iain


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 9:42 pm 
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I was just checking out another post by forum member wu-zhh and looking at his (?) website. On that website I ended up on 4 festival photos of Longhorn Miao http://www.hmonghome.com/photo/search.a ... t=Longhorn - click an image to get the small slide show.

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
on-line tribal textiles resource


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 Post subject: About the long Horn Miao
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 5:35 am 
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Location: Kaili, Guizhou, China
Hi, dear iain and Pamela, I have been read your posts, thanks for sharing your information and photos with all.
This Jacket is a Long Horn Miao women's clothes. The Long Horn Miao, they are a part of Chinese Hmong (Miao People), live in Suojia and other a few villages in Liuzhi county, west Guizhou, China.

if you want to know more information about Long Horn Miao, please reply this post or visit my website.

Thanks!

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Email to me: wu-zhh@hotmail.com


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 2:18 pm 
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This jacket has an abundance of embroidery in place of batik in comparison to the first posted here. The embroidery work is incredibly fine and beautifully emulates the batik sleeves.
I have several variations on these jackets and particulalry enjoy the color and technique combinations. More examples to follow....
Iain


Attachments:
File comment: Long Horn Miao Jacket 2 full front
LHM2 full front.jpg
LHM2 full front.jpg [ 55.58 KiB | Viewed 9600 times ]
File comment: Long Horn Miao Jacket 2 full back
LHM2 full back.jpg
LHM2 full back.jpg [ 36.95 KiB | Viewed 9600 times ]
File comment: Long Horn Miao Jacket 2 front detail
LHM2 detail front.jpg
LHM2 detail front.jpg [ 72.38 KiB | Viewed 9600 times ]
File comment: Long Horn Miao Jacket 2 back centre panel
LMH2 detail back top.jpg
LMH2 detail back top.jpg [ 113.29 KiB | Viewed 9600 times ]
File comment: Long Horn Miao Jacket 2 back tail detail
LHM2 detail back.jpg
LHM2 detail back.jpg [ 65.47 KiB | Viewed 9600 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 2:55 pm 
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Iain

A lovely example! Can you post a close-up of the sleeve. I can't decide if it is wax resist or embroidery. I particularly like the way that the white diamonds 'flow'. I had thought that it is wax resist but now I am not sure? I am posting a close-up of the bit I am interested in. I have tried sharpening but this is the best I can do.

I suppose that being embroidery it is probably more recent as there seems to be a switch to embroidery. Very skillful but not such a specialised skill to be learnt over very many years as wax resist.

thanks


Attachments:
File comment: sleeve detail
sleeve-det.jpg
sleeve-det.jpg [ 68.1 KiB | Viewed 9591 times ]

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 Post subject: Wax resist confirmation
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 4:39 am 
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Greetings Pamela
The section that you are interested in is indeed wax resist. The workmanship is incredible and very controlled. All of the Long Horn Miao jackets in my collection have wax resist sleeves. It would appear, irrespective of the extent to which embroidery has been employed on Long Horn Miao jackets, that the sleeves are done in wax resist. All the jackets I have seen in person (some 22 in total) use wax resist on the sleeves. As far as I can determine, examples both in literature and on the web also follow this pattern. I am unsure of the reason for this phenomenon. I will shortly post a close up of the sleeves - I am away from home at present.
Quote:
I particularly like the way that the white diamonds 'flow'.
I can only agree with you. I particularly appreciate the complementary embroidery design of the breast panel and wax resist design of the sleeves - overall a very successful composition.
Regards
Iain


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 1:16 pm 
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Hi Iain-
You've been posting some lovely jackets, enhanced especially by the model (and your photography skills, of course!). It's always nice to see the pieces being worn and she wears them very well!

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 2:18 pm 
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Thank you for your kind comments, Susan.
Pamela, I still need to rephotograph that sleeve as even the enlarged version does not enable immediate distincton between the wax resist and embroidery.
Just to keep the Long Horn Miao images going here is another jacket. The colours of this jacket are somewhat more subdued than the last and it does appear to be somewhat older - for example the lining of the main jacket body and 'tail' is of hemp/raimie instead of from industrially manufactured cotton.
That said, the first jacket posted - with expansive wax resist front - is lined with industrially manufactured and printed cotton cloth. Perhaps this reflects a replaced lining? Whatever the answer, it raises questions about the idea that the presence of a greater abundance of wax resist over embroidery is indicative of greater age in Long Horn Miao textiles - albeit a trend elsewhere.
The combination of wax resist and embroidery by the Long Horn Miao on their jackets appears to be consistent. Given that this combination is found in varying degrees could it simply reflect an individuals preference for wax resist over embroidery; or an individuals advanced ability and incorporation of wax resist; or possible local variations in use of wax resist and embroidery? A wider search in books and textile collections might bring forth an answer.
Regards
Iain


Attachments:
File comment: LHM3 Front
LHM3 front.jpeg
LHM3 front.jpeg [ 46.36 KiB | Viewed 9536 times ]
File comment: LHM3 Front collar
LHM3 front collar.jpg
LHM3 front collar.jpg [ 118.28 KiB | Viewed 9536 times ]
File comment: LHM3 Front detail
LHM3 front detail.jpg
LHM3 front detail.jpg [ 67.52 KiB | Viewed 9536 times ]
File comment: LHM3 Full back
LHM3 back.jpg
LHM3 back.jpg [ 46.28 KiB | Viewed 9536 times ]
File comment: LHM3 Back detail
LHM3 back detail.jpg
LHM3 back detail.jpg [ 70.17 KiB | Viewed 9536 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 2:22 pm 
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Here are images of the right and left sleeves of the jacket above.


Attachments:
File comment: LHM3 Sleeve
LHM3 fside.jpg
LHM3 fside.jpg [ 73.8 KiB | Viewed 9531 times ]
File comment: LHM3 Sleeve
LHM3 side.jpeg
LHM3 side.jpeg [ 56.59 KiB | Viewed 9531 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2007 10:26 am 
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Iain

Many thanks. These really are superb jackets. The linking between the designs in both wax resist and embroidery is especially fascinating - probably the best example is in the one with the particular jacket sleeve that has attracted me. Since, in this one, the sleeves are wax resist (not embroidery) I think any argument for it to be a later jacket is void.

You really have some star pieces here of very excellent quality. A tribute to the art based on craft that Miao women can create.

Very many thanks for sharing them with us.

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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