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tribaltextiles.info • View topic - Wa or Lawa skirt

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 Post subject: Wa or Lawa skirt
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 12:05 am 
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Wa skirt full- low res.jpg
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Wa Skirt detail 1- low res.jpg
Wa Skirt detail 1- low res.jpg [ 109.21 KiB | Viewed 16289 times ]
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 4:45 am 
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 2:04 pm 
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File comment: A woman checking her tying of the resists around the silk weft threads against a woven ikat strip which she is using as a pattern during tying before the first application of dye in the ikat process at a weaving mill at Innbawkon (Inpawkhon) on Lake Inle,
9809O35E.jpg
9809O35E.jpg [ 41.9 KiB | Viewed 16285 times ]
File comment: ikat detail
wa_skirt_det-ikat.jpg
wa_skirt_det-ikat.jpg [ 38.08 KiB | Viewed 16285 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 1:09 am 
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 3:24 pm 
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 11:37 pm 
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Pamela and Susan-
Here are some closeups of the indigo ikat areas of the wa skirt. They are extremely knubby, where all other ikat on the skirt is completely flat. I also noticed the knubby nature of the indigo ikat on other Wa skirts, especially the rough cotton ones that both Susan and I have seen lately.

I think there are quite a few knots in the sections, but that doesn't completely answer the question of exactly what they are doing with the knots to create the pattern.


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Wa Skirt-close-front A-low res.jpg
Wa Skirt-close-front A-low res.jpg [ 106.63 KiB | Viewed 16219 times ]
Wa Skirt-close-back A-low res.jpg
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 7:13 pm 
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Bill

Very interesting indeed! I have tried to enlarge further a detail which I attach.

It almost looks as if the ikat threads have been needle-woven in on top of the basic warp-faced weaving. Many of the ikat threads across the warp seem thicker. It may be that the threads are thicker and have been woven - in the ikat sections - in a balanced weave rather than a warp-faced weave. The white threads seem thicker than the light blue.

I am going to email a weaving expert as see if the photos are enough to shed light.

Thanks, Bill, for setting this conundrum!


Attachments:
wa_skirt_ikat_weave.jpg
wa_skirt_ikat_weave.jpg [ 49.22 KiB | Viewed 16184 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 10:15 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 6:25 am 
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File comment: middle of ikat pattern run
Mail-Lawa-skirt-inside2.jpg
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File comment: end of ikat pattern run
Mail-Lawa-skirt-inside3.jpg
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 6:56 pm 
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 2:15 am 
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Last edited by Bill Hornaday on Wed Oct 22, 2008 8:00 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 5:29 am 
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 10:30 am 
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File comment: Marla Mallett's diagram of ikat yarns which are warp shifted
Warp Shifting.jpg
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 7:07 pm 
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 9:18 am 
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I was looking for information on Wa textiles and came across this old post. These skirt designs are very attractive.

Here is another way of producing patterns of this general type, the method we use in my weaving workshop. I attach a picture of a test piece of pile rug to illustrate. This is about 20cm x 40cm and is woven with wool from two different skeins.

To make this effect I dyed wool in skeins, wound to about 40cm diameter and dipped by hand in the dye vat, dyeing about 3/4 and leaving the ends white. Then handed the wool to rug weavers and told them to weave the rug as if it was a plain, unpatterned piece (skipping the yarn-blending steps that are generally done to smooth out "irregularities" in dyeing like this).

The result is a pattern of diagonal lines, the pitch and spacing of which depends on the relationship between the weft spacing and width (in this case) and the diameter of the skein. The smaller the skein the closer the lines are together. In principle, if the skein is wound to an even diameter then you should get regular, evenly spaced diagonal lines, but in practice the diameter of the skein gets wider the more wool is wound on it, so the pitch of the lines varies gradually and you get curved lines like a fingerprint.

In this case it's a rug, but the effect will be similar for a flatweave, and can be done on the weft or the warp. Doing it with the warp would give a more predictable result I think since the warp spacing and length is usually more consistent than with weft or pile knots.

This method doesn't require any extra steps on the loom or use of resists.

Generally we don't weave rugs exactly like this since the effect is bit strong, usually soften and combine with other dyeing effects. You can sometimes see these patterns in old rugs, where it's usually accidental (or serendipitous).


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File comment: pile rug test piece
moiresample.jpg
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