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 Post subject: Sumatran Textile ID
PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2003 10:01 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2003 9:31 am
Posts: 2
Location: USA
Just thought I'd post a few pictures of a piece I came across in a shop a few days ago and see if anyone could tell me what it is.

The shopowner said it was purchased somewhere in South Sumatra, but that was about all he knew. Couldn't find it in any of his books, and I don't have any to speak of (books on textiles seem fairly hard to come by in Indonesia).

Anyway, I hope this one isn't too obvious - my knowledge of Sumatran textiles (or most textiles, for that matter) is pretty limited.

It's approximately two-feet wide. Sorry about the photos, I was in a hurry and the lighting was poor.

http://www.geocities.com/goneblank/sumatra1/


Thanks!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2003 8:37 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 1:42 pm
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Location: Canterbury, UK
Nicholas

Welcome as a new member of the www.tribaltextiles.info/community forum!

I wonder if your textile might be from one of the 6 Batak groups in northern Sumatra. I have been in the Toba and Karo Batak areas and seen some of their textiles. There are some hints especially in the ends of the weaving athough I cannot directly identify the textile. I could be completely wrong, of course!

Thanks for sharing.

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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 Post subject: Maybe from Lombok.
PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2003 10:31 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2003 7:27 pm
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Hello Nicholas,

I think Pamela may be correct as it has some of the characteristics of textiles from one of the Batak groups. However, it may also be from the Sasak people on Lombok. They are known for weaving course weave textiles in simple warp-stripes. If I'm correct it would be called a "kain umbak". I have not found many references other than a brief mention in Fraser-Lu's book. In any event, thanks for sharing. Best, Richard


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2003 12:26 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2003 9:31 am
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Thanks for the replies.

I had suspected it was probably Batak of some sort, as I've seen ulos with almost identical patterning at the ends. I've also seen several with simple striped patterns.

But the colors in particular are unlike any other ulos I've seen.


Thanks again,

Nicholas


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2003 5:55 am 
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Nicholas

I agree that the colours are unlike any Batak ulos I have seen - but I have only seen Toba, Karo and one other which escapes me at the moment. The stripes and ending are what gives it the Batak feel

One of us may find it an example to identify when we are trawling our libraries so something may surface sometime in the future.

all the best

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2003 6:18 pm 
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I agree that the above textile bears a certain resemblance to the textile samples shown in the (unfortunatly) black and white photo on page 182 of ' Handwoven Textiles of South East Asia' by Fraser- Lu . ( For further info about this book see Pamela's bibliographies) The textile has similar finging, general shape, and stripes of slightly different widths which look as if they are in different colours. These Kain Lurik as they are termed are a sturdy hand spun plain weave cotton cloth patterned with stripes and used as an all purpose textile for everyday clothing, household fabrics and load carrying. Central Java has long been famous for their production. They used to be black and white plaid or stripe but nowadays their colour combinations are endless. In addition each stripe combination has a special name to weavers. This tradition is elaborated on on in Fraser Lu's book. Much of this textile is today produced in factories.
I have found little information on South Sumatran textiles, but those I have seen illus appear to be of a different tradtion eg Lampung (Paminggir peoples ) although it must be admitted that similar stripes form part of a Kauer women's jacket illus on page 181 so it is possible that textiles of the Kain Lurik type could also have developed here. In Lombok there are textiles that resemble them, as has been pointed out above. It is also more than likely that the Javanese Kain Lurik as been traded and copied thoughout Indonesia and is also widely used in Sumatra. (longditudinal stripes on long shawl like textiles with fringes at the ends tend to be a wide spread textile form thus rendering identification difficult.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2003 7:26 pm 
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Siriol,

Interesting post. You may have a point about Javanese Kain Lurik although the stripes are very different in Nicholas' piece as the Kain Lurik in Fraser-Lu are very narrow and close together. I don't think it is a development of Kaur - at least based on Kaur jackets I have seen including a very nice one in my own collection.

A good original post from Nicholas as it has prompted some varied ideas!

regards,

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2003 5:22 pm 
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On page 69 of 'Textiles of Southeast Asia:- Tradition, Trade and Transformation' (Robyn Maxwell), there is a photograph of an all purpose textile made by the Sasak people of Lombok. Its most distinguishing feature is ithe use of a vibrant red, which is also included in the example above, together with three vertical fairly wide bands, one central the other two at the edges. These bands are of much darker colour and contain thin stripes (Dark blue, brown ,yellows?). It also has an elaborate fringe. Such textiles are used by the Sasak as shoulder cloths and for carrying things, much like the Javanese textiles I mentioned above. The general concept and design is said to have spread via Javanese expansion in historical times. An interesting point is that such textiles in Lombok can be decorated with Chinese coins which are attached to the lower fringes. (see illus page 251)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2003 7:37 pm 
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I wonder about the simple stripes as female power symbols. On Borneo and a few other places that escape me at the moment, but which are areas with very elaborate ikat traditions, the stripes are woven only by elderly women, or women placed highly in society. Of course that is not the case with this textile nor the others mentioned here, but I was curious if anyone may have further details on this topic.

Sandie


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 Post subject: Sumatran Textile ID
PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2006 10:03 am 
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Joined: Tue May 09, 2006 9:47 am
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Location: Bali Indonesia
I hope this gets "threaded" three years after the original post. I am scanning old postings on this forum today, as a newly registered member. Getting up to speed.

The indigo and white striped textile with small bands of twining near the warp-ends is not Batak, not lurik, not Lombok.

It's from Pasemah, in the interior of Bengkulu province of Sumatra.


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