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 Post subject: Tausug Headpiece Design
PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 7:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2004 12:27 am
Posts: 124
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Also while cataloging I ran into this Tausug headpiece with its complex tapestry tile patterns reminicent of Tibetan sand painting mandalas, as well as Middle eastern tiles Anyway, I have always wondered about the roots of such a design as I am not aware of anything similar in Southeast Asia. The Tausug were one of the first groups to convert to Islam. Some say as early as the 10th century. There are certainly other groups in the area with either Moslem or have Himalayan roots, why nowhere else? Any ideas? One of the nice things about being on the forum at the same time as going through one's collection is that one can ask questions that were never answered when we bought the piece.

Bill Hornaday
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Last edited by Bill Hornaday on Tue Oct 21, 2008 5:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 10:27 pm 
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Bill

I could not recall having hear of the Tausug so popped the name in Google. This web page is quite interesting http://www.ksafe.com/profiles/p_code4/1133.html - and now I know why your headcloth immediately made me think of one in my collection from Sabah which is similar to one from Mark Johnson from the Philippines - see this thread (if I can find it) - found it! And Mark's is Tausug! See http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... .php?t=176 According to Mark the Tausug are found on the 'Jolo islands which are part of a group of islands stretching south from Mindanao to the tip of Sabah state on Borneo'.

Not that any of that answers your question but it makes me feel better! Nothing like seeing a textile and recognition bells ringing but just beyond one's consiousness!

To me the design on your headcloth looks like a tiled floor - possibly even one from a mosque.

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 Post subject: Tausug headpiece
PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2005 6:39 am 
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Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Hi- This is called a "pis siyabit", similar to the "destar" in Sabah. This is a nice example; last time I was in Manila , Mindanao was inaccessable and the cost of these was high as they are becoming rare. A book of interest in this area is "Pangalay" by Ligaya Fernando Amilbangsa, by the Ayala Museum (Filipinas Foundation), 1983. Back then I got my copy in Manila; the author is considered to be the authority on Philippine Muslim traditional folk expression. It's been a while since I've looked at my research but I seem to recall it mentioned that the many of the Muslim missionaries from Arabia came to Mindanao via Gugjaret, influencing textile arts. Isolation due to the environment in Mindanao allowed for the development of distinct Islamic groups as well as the maintenence of the cultural minorities in Mindanao.
I hope this helps. Seeing this piece was so interesting!

brendab.


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 Post subject: Tagalog with me...
PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2005 4:39 am 
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Thank you brendab for the good information. It made me curious, so I checked a book in my library called Sinaunang Habi, Philippine Ancestral Weave byMarian Pastor-Roces. She has some good information that elaborates on what you said about the Gujarat connection, plus she talks about the way it is made:
Quote:
" Thus, the Tawsug pis siyabit is an exact copy, though miniaturized and executed in the tapestry technique, of a type of large-scale Gujerati double ikat (not patola...). Both the Gujerati original and the Tawsug equivalent exhibited extraordinarily dense, square motif fields, populated by angular hooks, crosses, swastikas, lozenges, and a complex polychromatic structure. Both were traditionally manufactured in silk.

The word siyabit was apparently descriptive of the tapestry technique ... is a cognate of the Ilanon sambit, descriptive of a kind of tapestry technique employing a single interlocked discontinuous weft.

The pis format, a square featuring an internal framing structure, has been adopted by practically all Mindanao cultures as a standard headcloth format. Generically called tubao, these square pieces mirrored such obscure cloths as telia rumal from the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh among many others [-I would include here the distinctive silk ikat and songket headcloths of Palembang, Sumatra].

...Neither scarves nor sashes were square in formulation prior to the widespread adoption of this format in Southern Philippines. Spanish period documents consistently described headgear or sashes of long and narrow, solidly-colored cloth."


Also, in considering the use of tapestry weave in these, which I find incredible given the complexity of pattern and variety of colors, it is interesting to note that the Maranao, also on Mindanao, use tapestry-woven silk to adorn their tubular dresses called malong.


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File comment: Maranao 'malong' showing tapestry weave on decorative bands
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 Post subject: Tagalog some more...
PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2005 4:52 am 
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Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
Me again-
Sorry Bill to not address your question about the design, but in thinking about the Indian origin of the design, it would suggest that it is probably a mandala of sorts and not Islamic at all. Tho the geometric nature of the design would have an Islamic appeal.

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