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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2015 7:48 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 30, 2007 11:52 am
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Location: france
Bonjour à tous

back on the forum after some eclipse. I am going to lend to my favorite museum (Bargoin Museum in Clermont Ferrand, France) some pieces of my collection for an exhibition about BLUE and INDIGO. Among the pieces are akha jackets and a head dress supposed coming from vietnam (muong people). I just need some acurate informations about those pieces : precise group or village and so on.
We are working on the cartels for the exhibition and want to give the more precise descriptions.

merci d'avance


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 3:11 pm 
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Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
Bonjour Louis- I will address your question about the headcloth: it is from the Dao Quan Trang sub-group of the Mien (a.k.a. Yao), probably from Tuyen Quang Province, tho possibly from Yen Bai Province in Vietnam. These two provinces flank the Red River, northwest of Hanoi. If you have Michael and Kim Be Howard's book Textiles of the Highland Peoples of Northern Vietnam, you will see similar examples on pp.200-202, plus p.197 showing two ladies from this group. I am also posting two that were in my collection to show the similarities and variations. Hope this helps.


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File comment: Dao Quan Trang Headcloth
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File comment: Dao Quan Trang Headcloth
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Susan Stem

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 9:50 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 1:42 pm
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Very good to see you on the forum again, Louis.

Thank you, Susan, for your ID of the Dao Quan Trang headcloth. I too have a nice example.

Do you have Paul and Elaine Lewis' book "Peoples of the Golden Triangle" (my epiphany to textiles of this region was acquiring this book in 1988 on my first visit to Chiang Mai and encounter with the hill tribes in the area). There is a good section on the Akha. The book was published in 1984 and the missionary couple were in the area from the late 1960s.

Your veste 2 is very similar to a couple of men's jackets shown on page 213 as Loimi-Akha, probably from Thailand. On page 211 the book relates that
Quote:
"The waist-length jackets worn by men and boys have vents at the lower edge on both sides and in the back, and are similarly embellished [to the women's]. Some have a rectangular chest pieces bordered with strips of red cloth and closed with a silver buckle."

The Loimi-Akha men's jackets seem to have plain sleeves - as in veste 02 - but the women's seem to have strips of fabric sewn on them horizontally parallel to the cuff. The women's jackets shown on page 212 have these stripes but are more ornate than Veste 01. The sleeves of women's jackets pages 208/9 - U Lo-Akha - look a bit more like your example veste 01 as does the back and side seam decoration. The examples in the book are rather more decorated than your example for veste 01.

I have had a look in "The Akha: Guardians of the Forest" by Jim Goodman. It is the headdresses of the women which tend to be the most obvious distinguishing feature of the different Akha groups. To me it also looks difficult to tell the difference between those in Thailand and those in Kentung, Myanmar.

I am not sure that my comments above are helpful but - the best I can do!

All the very best for the exhibition!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 1:35 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 30, 2007 11:52 am
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Location: france
Bonjour à tous

first thank you Susan for the acurate ID on the Vietnam headress. Those indications will be added to the label in the exhibition.
Pamela, yes I do have the book of Paul and Elaine Lewis, and I have made the same conclusions than yours. I have asked the seller, but those pièces has been found on markets without direct link to the original peoples.

May be there are others collectors on the forum who can have more accurate field knowledge about akha people and clothes and can give more precise ID. But this book is definitively the more complete and well illustrated work on the subject.

If you cannot went to Paris before the end of the Indigo exhibition (may 2) you'll can see the Clermont Ferrand exhibition that will be the same with new additions ( europe, us and rest of the world including Africa, Asia....); It begins may 16, for I suppose 3 or more monthes openning.

Amicalement

louis


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2015 3:01 am 
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Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
Louis-
You are most welcome! I am glad that my information was helpful. As for the Akha jackets... Pamela is right about the Lewis' book being probably the best source. There is also a book called Hilltribe Textiles, that I no longer have and which is out of print, but that may also shed some light on which specific Akha groups these come from.

Good luck with the exhibition! Wish I could be there.

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 Post subject: headdress ID
PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2016 11:24 am 
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Location: france
Dear Susan

you seem to be quite an expert in vietnam pieces.
I have two headdresses (turban 01 and T 03) that seem to be from DAO people and one other piece (turban02) that is likely not from the same group.

Could you give me your opinion about them.
For the first headdress I have found on google a picture of what is called a SAPA girl wearing the same design piece. But I am not sure if the Sapa attribution is right (it seems that they use to wear red headdresses.

Cordialement

Louis


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2016 2:24 pm 
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Louis, Have a look at http://www.tribaltextiles.info/Galleries/Black_Thai.htm for photos of Black Tai women wearing similar head scarves in Vietnam back in 1995.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2016 4:13 pm 
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Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
Louis- Pamela is correct- these are Tai Dam headcloths. Check on my website for similar examples:http://www.tribaltrappings.com/TAV_2.html

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