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tribaltextiles.info • View topic - More Li Textiles

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:54 pm 
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At the risk of boring everyone silly with Li textiles I am going to post one more.

It is probably made of hemp. I am not sure if it is a Qi Li or a Ha Li skirt.

It is almost exactly like one shown as 'figure 18. Li Qi sub-group; detail of a woman's tubeskirt. [Stubel (1937), fig.237]' on page 213 of Michael C Howard & Kim Be Howard's 'Textiles of the Daic Peoples of Vietnam' where they include material from Hans Stubel's 'Die Li-Stamme der Insel Hainan: Ein Beitrag zur Volkskunde Sudchinas' published in 1937.

However, it is also very similar to one shown on page 236 in the section on 'Brocade patterns by Ha dialect-speaking women' in 'Traditional Culture of Li Ethnic Group'.

I am interested in trying to determine how the red stripes have been created - needle woven embroidery or woven on the loom. The wide band of figures above the stripes is, from the reverse, pretty clearly embroidered.

The stripes look to me like needle weaving on finished cloth. There is very little visible on the reverse of the cloth but there are feint parallel red lines where the edges of the stripes occur. I think that the think stripes in between the wider red ones are warp stripes with warp-float patterning n the pale blue and white stripes.

I have asked Marla Mallett to have a look and see if she can assist with the determination of technique.


Attachments:
File comment: Li hemp tube skirt
IMGP1575e.jpg
IMGP1575e.jpg [ 57.4 KiB | Viewed 12241 times ]
File comment: detail of Li hemp skirt
IMGP1577e.jpg
IMGP1577e.jpg [ 65.3 KiB | Viewed 12241 times ]

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Last edited by Pamela on Sun Aug 02, 2009 12:52 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 9:55 pm 
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Just a couple more photos - close-up and back - of the red stripes


Attachments:
File comment: red stripe - back (with a hint of front to the right of the photo)
IMGP1646e.jpg
IMGP1646e.jpg [ 50.21 KiB | Viewed 12230 times ]
File comment: red stripe - front
IMGP1648e.jpg
IMGP1648e.jpg [ 60.8 KiB | Viewed 12230 times ]

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Last edited by Pamela on Mon Feb 28, 2005 7:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 7:06 pm 
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Attachments:
File comment: Qi Li weaving - pages 222 and 223 of 'Traditional Culture of Li Ethnic Group'
Qi-weavinge.jpg
Qi-weavinge.jpg [ 50.18 KiB | Viewed 12193 times ]
File comment: man's jacket of the Li speaking the Ha dialect known as the Luohuo from Ledong
IMGP1596e.jpg
IMGP1596e.jpg [ 55.31 KiB | Viewed 12193 times ]
File comment: detail of man's jacket of the Li speaking the Ha dialect known as the Luohuo from Ledong - stitching to the right of the photo is a darn.
IMGP1623e.jpg
IMGP1623e.jpg [ 60.21 KiB | Viewed 12193 times ]

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 12:46 pm 
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Robert C. Clarke
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 Post subject: Bast Fibers on Hainan
PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 2:11 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 2:52 am 
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:18 am 
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Ramie can be very soft and feel and look identical to hemp when woven. I attach link http://www.tribaltextiles.info/Gallerie ... /XME11.htm to an example on the main tti site. There is a photo taken in Oct 2000 in Xian Ma village, Hou Chang township, Puding county, Guizhou province. Here Li Jiang Ying, a Big Flower Miao woman from the village who had executed all the processes from bast fibre to woven length which had been wax resist dyed is standing in front of two lengths of fabric - one is ramie and the other is hemp. We tried and tried to find any difference in the two lengths of fabric but could not - and both were very soft after all the processing. Also see http://www.tribaltextiles.info/Gallerie ... /XME16.htm where there are examples in Li Jiang Ying's home of both hemp and ramie thread with ramie being slightly lighter and therefore preferred as it takes less effort to lighten it. (I have added both photos here but it may be worth visiting the links to find out a bit more info and also to link to other photos from the same village.)

Industrially processed ramie is used in so much international clothing these days and has been for years. It is very soft (and tends to crease easily).


Attachments:
File comment: Li Jiang Ying, a Big Flower Miao woman, 60 in Oct 2000, was the maker of both these skirt lengths - the one on the left of the photo is made from ramie and the one on the right is hemp. The indigo design on both has been created via a batik wax resist
0010y12E.jpg
0010y12E.jpg [ 35.44 KiB | Viewed 10595 times ]
File comment: Rolls of spliced hemp in the foreground and a large roll of un-spliced ramie, stripped from the twig but waiting to be spliced. Note that the ramie is slightly lighter in colour than the hemp thus a reason that it is preferred
0010y02E.jpg
0010y02E.jpg [ 37.86 KiB | Viewed 10595 times ]

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Last edited by Pamela on Mon Aug 03, 2009 8:30 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 10:26 am 
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 11:52 am 
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Attachments:
File comment: Two Big Flower Miao women splicing ramie - Xian Ma village, Hou Chang township, Puding county, Guizhou province
0010y06E.jpg
0010y06E.jpg [ 43.7 KiB | Viewed 10580 times ]
File comment: White Miao woman splicing lengths of hemp or ramie. She has lengths of hemp or ramie stripped from the bush wound around her waist. It is difficult to know whether the lengths of fibre are hemp or ramie as the word 'Ba' is the same for either. There we
0010j15E.jpg
0010j15E.jpg [ 40.58 KiB | Viewed 10580 times ]

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 4:11 pm 
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 Post subject: Nice photos Pamela
PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 8:20 pm 
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Robert C. Clarke
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 8:28 pm 
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Robert C. Clarke
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 9:37 pm 
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Attachments:
HainanSkirtRC006TTF.jpg
HainanSkirtRC006TTF.jpg [ 89.49 KiB | Viewed 10316 times ]
HainanSkirtRC005TTF.jpg
HainanSkirtRC005TTF.jpg [ 98.42 KiB | Viewed 10316 times ]
HainanSkirtRC004TTF.jpg
HainanSkirtRC004TTF.jpg [ 89.02 KiB | Viewed 10316 times ]
HainanSkirtRC003TTF.jpg
HainanSkirtRC003TTF.jpg [ 90.12 KiB | Viewed 10316 times ]
HainanSkirtRC001TTF.jpg
HainanSkirtRC001TTF.jpg [ 90.65 KiB | Viewed 10316 times ]

_________________
Robert C. Clarke
Textile Collector and Researcher
International Hemp Association - Projects Manager
Society for Economic Botany - Life Member
Textile Society of America - Member
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 8:35 pm 
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Attachments:
File comment: A Run Li weaver in Baisa with Eric Kindberg and possibly Mr Wang Xue Ping. Photo probably taken in 2007
eric-li-w.jpg
eric-li-w.jpg [ 72.13 KiB | Viewed 10223 times ]
File comment: A Run Li loom in Baisa. Photo probably taken in 2007
Baisa-w.jpg
Baisa-w.jpg [ 70.18 KiB | Viewed 10223 times ]
File comment: info sheet on Run Li weavers compiled by Eric Kindberg in 2008
Run-col-cr-crop-w.jpg
Run-col-cr-crop-w.jpg [ 89.66 KiB | Viewed 10223 times ]

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