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tribaltextiles.info • View topic - Seven Pua Kumbu

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 Post subject: Seven Pua Kumbu
PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 4:46 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 09, 2009 1:01 am
Posts: 248
Location: Japan
What river and/or longhouse are these pua from? What are the motifs and what are the approximate ages? This pua, #7, has selvedge stripes similar to #5. Could it also be from the Saribas river area? It is mill thread and has chemical dyes in the stripes.

All of these photos were kindly taken for me by Mr. Isamu Takei.


Attachments:
File comment: Pua 7 86X196 cen.
weight 450 grams

_MG_0203.jpg
_MG_0203.jpg [ 138.33 KiB | Viewed 15692 times ]
File comment: Pua 7
_MG_0206.jpg
_MG_0206.jpg [ 239.66 KiB | Viewed 15692 times ]
File comment: Pua 7
_MG_0209.jpg
_MG_0209.jpg [ 250.32 KiB | Viewed 15692 times ]


Last edited by MAC on Fri Nov 06, 2009 6:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject: Seven Pua Kumbu
PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 4:55 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 09, 2009 1:01 am
Posts: 248
Location: Japan
Pua 6 This pua seems to be fine handspun thread and has a double weft.


Attachments:
File comment: Pua 6 116X244 cen.
weight 850 grams

_MG_0170.jpg
_MG_0170.jpg [ 165.56 KiB | Viewed 15688 times ]
File comment: Pua 6
_MG_0172.jpg
_MG_0172.jpg [ 253.89 KiB | Viewed 15688 times ]
File comment: Pua 6
_MG_0175.jpg
_MG_0175.jpg [ 251.21 KiB | Viewed 15688 times ]


Last edited by MAC on Fri Nov 06, 2009 6:29 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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 Post subject: Seven pua Kumbu
PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 5:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 09, 2009 1:01 am
Posts: 248
Location: Japan
Pua 5 Do the colors in the selvedge stripes indicate that this is a pua from the Saribas river? It seems to be fine handspun thread with a double weft. The warps are tightly crammed making the weft almost invisible.


Attachments:
File comment: Pua 5 95X219 cen.
weight 520 grams

_MG_0141.jpg
_MG_0141.jpg [ 152.72 KiB | Viewed 15680 times ]
File comment: Pua 5
_MG_0143.jpg
_MG_0143.jpg [ 258.32 KiB | Viewed 15679 times ]
File comment: Pua 5
_MG_0145.jpg
_MG_0145.jpg [ 255.26 KiB | Viewed 15679 times ]


Last edited by MAC on Fri Nov 06, 2009 6:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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 Post subject: Seven Pua Kumbu
PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 5:16 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 09, 2009 1:01 am
Posts: 248
Location: Japan
Pua 4 This pua seems to be fine handspun thread except for the red selvedge stripes which are mill thread and chemically dyed. It is somewhat loosly woven and the double weft is easily visible. It has lovely olive and tan stripes which are handspun and natural. The red stripes are chemical mill thread and tripple warped.


Attachments:
File comment: Pua 4 103X207 cen.
weight 500 grams

_MG_0130.jpg
_MG_0130.jpg [ 163.85 KiB | Viewed 15676 times ]
File comment: Pua 4
_MG_0136.jpg
_MG_0136.jpg [ 219.58 KiB | Viewed 15676 times ]
File comment: Pua 4
_MG_0139.jpg
_MG_0139.jpg [ 241.89 KiB | Viewed 15676 times ]


Last edited by MAC on Fri Nov 06, 2009 7:01 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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 Post subject: Seven Pua Kumbu
PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 5:21 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 09, 2009 1:01 am
Posts: 248
Location: Japan
Pua 3 This pua is trippled warped and has a tripple weft. Any weaver who was that lazy would probably not spin her own thread if mill thread was available. The selvedge stripes, unlike the ikated threads, are only double warped. The red stripes are chemical dye but here again is that olive stripe which seems to be handspun and natural.


Attachments:
File comment: Pua 3 101X197 cen.
weight 500 grams

_MG_0119.jpg
_MG_0119.jpg [ 185.14 KiB | Viewed 15671 times ]
File comment: Pua 3
_MG_0123.jpg
_MG_0123.jpg [ 270.57 KiB | Viewed 15671 times ]
File comment: Pua 3
_MG_0126.jpg
_MG_0126.jpg [ 251.14 KiB | Viewed 15671 times ]


Last edited by MAC on Fri Nov 06, 2009 7:16 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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 Post subject: Seven Pua Kumbu
PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 5:30 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 09, 2009 1:01 am
Posts: 248
Location: Japan
Pua 1 and 2 All of these photos were kindly taken for me by Mr. Isamu Takei.


Attachments:
File comment: Pua 1 95X204 cen.
weight 610 grams

_MG_0103.jpg
_MG_0103.jpg [ 166.29 KiB | Viewed 15665 times ]
File comment: Pua 1
_MG_0107.jpg
_MG_0107.jpg [ 275.83 KiB | Viewed 15665 times ]
File comment: Pua 2 86X204 cen.
weight 530 grams

_MG_0111.jpg
_MG_0111.jpg [ 149.96 KiB | Viewed 15665 times ]
File comment: Pua 2
_MG_0114.jpg
_MG_0114.jpg [ 253.73 KiB | Viewed 15665 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:11 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 1:42 pm
Posts: 2001
Location: Canterbury, UK
MAC

What a great group of pua especially when taken together with your 'white selvedge club' examples!

I can't make any informative comments on them but can only enjoy them. I find the variations in design very interesting especially when they are stacked up together. Difficult, of course, from the relatively small images of the overall textiles to quite gauge them. The slightly less complex ones come over more strongly in these web photos yet I suppose the more complex ones - if finely executed - might be deemed more worthy within their original Iban audience.

Do you mind if I ask you some questions about your collection? How did you first come to collect pua and when was it? Did you find them all in Borneo? I am curious for myself - I find it fascinating to learn more about how forum members succumbed to the 'textile virus' as Monique so eloquently phrases it - and also because I know that there are others who are following these pua threads with great interest who are new, aspiring or hesitant collectors of pua.

Many thanks,

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 6:05 pm
Posts: 132
Location: Kuching, Malaysia
Dear MAC

These are my observations:


Pua 7
Provenance: Saratok, a district of the Saribas.
Period: 1940s.
Pattern: Unknown.


Pua 6
Provenance: Julau.
Period: 1940s.
Pattern: Unknown.


Pua 5
Provenance: Saribas.
Period: 1940s.
Pattern: The Berinjan. (see )


Pua 4
Provenance: Saribas.
Period: 1930s.
Pattern: A variation on the Simbang Terabai (Handle of the Shield) or the Buah Lebor Api (Pattern of the Flaming Fire, not to be confused with the Pua Lebor Api which is the pua sungkit). Different families call it by different names. The yellow selvedge indicates it was woven by a master dyer.


Pua 3
Provenance: Saribas.
Period: 1930s.
Pattern: Bulan Menyimbang (The Crescent Moon).


Pua 2
Provenance: Saribas.
Period: 1900s. The oldest in this collection. No trace of chemical dyes.
Pattern: Unknown.


Pua 1
Provenance: Saribas.
Period: 1940s.
Pattern: Unknown.


Vernon's pick: Pua 5 (fine weaving and good use of space), Pua 4 (high status) and Pua 3 (fine execution of an old pattern).


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:52 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 1:42 pm
Posts: 2001
Location: Canterbury, UK
Vernon

(What an exposition across the the 3 threads re MAC's pua....thank you so much!)

I am curious that you say that pua 4 of these 7 is high status. I presume that this is the actual design? It is the most 'empty', so very different from 5. On this thread 4 comes over very strongly because of its larger scale and therefore impact.

Thanks again for all the thought given to your careful review of the pua and to your subsequent information and comments. (I think that we could do with projection of all the pua onto a very large screen accompanied by your voice-over!)

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Pamela

http://www.tribaltextiles.info
on-line tribal textiles resource


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 10:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 6:05 pm
Posts: 132
Location: Kuching, Malaysia


Attachments:
File comment: The Pua Lebor Api or Blanket of the Blazing Fire which displays the pattern also called the Blazing Fire.
Lebor Api Late Classical.JPG
Lebor Api Late Classical.JPG [ 136.01 KiB | Viewed 15551 times ]
File comment: The Buah or Pattern of the Blazing Fire of the Paku (Saribas). Woven by my grandfather's great-grandmother, one of the oldest blankets in our family, and used to receive trophy-heads.
DSC03066.JPG
DSC03066.JPG [ 64.96 KiB | Viewed 15553 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 11:42 am 
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Location: Canterbury, UK

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 6:05 pm
Posts: 132
Location: Kuching, Malaysia


Attachments:
File comment: Iban Women Dancing With Human Heads. Reproduced from: The Pagan Tribes of Borneo, Charles Hose and William McDougall. MacMillan and Co. Ltd., London, UK. 1912. Plate 106, p. 188.
9917_154500953321_572243321_2492216_747886_n.jpg
9917_154500953321_572243321_2492216_747886_n.jpg [ 105.81 KiB | Viewed 15521 times ]


Last edited by vernonkeditjolly on Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:58 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:28 pm 
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Location: Canterbury, UK

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 6:05 pm
Posts: 132
Location: Kuching, Malaysia


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:43 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 1:42 pm
Posts: 2001
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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
on-line tribal textiles resource


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