tribaltextiles.info

It is currently Fri Oct 20, 2017 11:15 pm

All times are UTC




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 8 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 3:55 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 7:35 pm
Posts: 175
Location: east coast
Greetings everyone. I am considering writing an article on the pilih style weavings from the Iban/Ibanic peoples of Borneo. These are much less seen than the ikat or even sungkit pieces. They are also difficult to find in acceptable condition and the ones I have seen are generally of commercial dyes and so there is hesitation washing them.

But I am posting a pilih pua and a pilih skirt hoping others may be interested in the technique and pieces and also perhaps can refer me to others, either for my personal collection and/or permission to use for the article.

Because of the pilih weaving method in which supplementary weft threads float over and under groups of warp threads to make the pattern, the two sides often appear as reversals and each can be equally attractive with some question as to which side the weaver intended to the "correct" side. I consider the side with the more knots of joined threads to be the "wrong" side. Others may differ in this opinion.


Attachments:
File comment: 91.5" x 19". A pua woven in the pilih style. The pattern may be referred to as "naga" because of the serpent motif.
naga pilih.JPG
naga pilih.JPG [ 195.89 KiB | Viewed 5145 times ]
File comment: The reverse side of the pua pilih.
naga pilih reverse side.jpg
naga pilih reverse side.jpg [ 172.52 KiB | Viewed 5145 times ]
File comment: One side enlarged detail of the pilih pua.
pilih side 2.jpg
pilih side 2.jpg [ 109.7 KiB | Viewed 5145 times ]
File comment: The other side enlarged detail of the pilih pua. Both details are of the same area.
pilih side 1.jpg
pilih side 1.jpg [ 104.31 KiB | Viewed 5145 times ]
File comment: 41.5" x 26.5". A pilih skirt from the Mualang people of Kalimantan.
mualang pilih skirt.jpg
mualang pilih skirt.jpg [ 225.97 KiB | Viewed 5145 times ]

_________________
John
Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 1:06 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 3:19 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Geneva (Switzerland)
Hi all,

To my opinion it is an excellent idea to write a paper on the pilih technique from Borneo (Sarawak and Kalimantan) and we must encourage John to do it. As I have never done field work in this area I cannot add information about this particular technique and also the use of the pilih decorated textiles. However, I have three very different textiles decorated using this technique and I think it is interesting to show in this post.

These three textiles were bought in Indonesia, they are probaly Iban but I am not 100% sure of that, specially for the skirt.

Georges


Attachments:
File comment: The same woman skirt but a view of the other side.
Kain Kebat Pilih verso.jpg
Kain Kebat Pilih verso.jpg [ 149.14 KiB | Viewed 5113 times ]
File comment: Woman skirt - kain kebat - from Kalimantan, probably Iban but could also be Ibanic.
Kain Kebat Pilih Kalimantan recto.jpg
Kain Kebat Pilih Kalimantan recto.jpg [ 160.98 KiB | Viewed 5113 times ]
File comment: This kind of decorated pannel were often used as a decoration for the back of a jacket. I don't know if they were used in this state.
Textile pilih Iban Coll. GB.jpg
Textile pilih Iban Coll. GB.jpg [ 169.9 KiB | Viewed 5113 times ]
File comment: This pua pilih has also the naga pattern. It was displayed in a museum exhibition but I am not sure they choice to show the good side!
Pilih.jpg
Pilih.jpg [ 119.29 KiB | Viewed 5113 times ]
Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 2:56 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 7:35 pm
Posts: 175
Location: east coast
Georges - thanks for your encouragement and I like your pilih very much.

The "panel" is very unusual in my limited experience. It looks like a sungkit. Can you post a picture of the other side if you happen to have it. Also the dimension if possible. I can guess at the dimensions by the detail but you never know.

And the naga pua pilih is a knockout! It's a wonderful piece. Congratulations on acquiring it. Is it part of your permanent collection? And did you have it cleaned?

_________________
John


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 5:06 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 3:19 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Geneva (Switzerland)
Warp (cut) = 40 cm
Weft: 47 - 43 cm
Local handspun cotton. Natural dyes, except maybe for the black colour of the base.
There is a description of a pannel like this one in the book: Hose & Mac Dougall. The pagan tribes of Borneo. London 1912.
Seems to be very old, probably XIXth century.
Was sold to me as originating from Kalimantan not Sarawak.
Part of my permanent collection BORN-1-018


Attachments:
File comment: The reverse of the decorative pannel. It is not the classic technique of pilih but for sure a kind of supplementary weft threads.
Textile pilih Kalimantan verso.jpg
Textile pilih Kalimantan verso.jpg [ 92.92 KiB | Viewed 5097 times ]
Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 6:35 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 7:35 pm
Posts: 175
Location: east coast
Thanks Georges. Amazing pilih badge. Any idea of which peoples in Kalimantan? I've never seen pilih work like that before. Congratulations again on acquiring it. I'll check out Hose and McDougal.

Many thanks again for sharing it.

_________________
John


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 8:42 am 
Offline

Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 7:22 am
Posts: 65
Location: germany
Hose & Mcdougall has been republished, available on Amazon.

It is also on Gutenberg and has an extensive index.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 1:24 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 3:19 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Geneva (Switzerland)
Dear John,
My memory is not what it was, but luckily I found a copy of the illustration to which I referred. It is not Hose & McDougall but H. Ling Roth "Natives of Sarawak and Brit. N. Borneo. 1896. Chapter "Weaving, Dying, and Dressmaking. Page 34.
I hope this document will be useful to your research.
Best greetings.
Georges


Attachments:
Ling Roth page 34x.jpg
Ling Roth page 34x.jpg [ 165.51 KiB | Viewed 4764 times ]

_________________
Information concerning my collection
http://www.ville-ge.ch/musinfo/ethg/expo03.php
Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 7:29 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 7:35 pm
Posts: 175
Location: east coast
Thanks Georges. Nothing wrong with your memory. I should have remembered it myself because I have that source downloaded onto my computer from GOOGLE BOOKS.

Thanks again Georges and I am enjoying the great textiles you are putting on the Forum.

Merry Christmas

_________________
John


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 8 posts ] 

All times are UTC


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group