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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:22 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2011 4:23 pm
Posts: 13
Location: South Carolina
A very rare Malong Andon (fine silk tubeskirt) from the Maranao Tribe of the Southern Philippines. This exquisitely complex garment is a combination of two horizontal ‘patola’ pattern ikat panels joined by a vertical ‘suksok’ (extra weft) panel of ornamental flowers and a central ‘tumpal’ motif. Note that the 'suksok' pattern is carried through the edges of the Ikat panels.

Mid 20th century. Width: 31" (79cm) x Height: 62" (157cm).

For further views of this textile, and arguably the best overview of Philippine textiles, I highly recommend, ‘Sinaunang Habi’, by Marian Pastor-Roces. This book is a delightful treatise that truly celebrates the wonders of Philippine textiles. I’ve always been able to find it on what I think is the best book resource for out of print books:
http://used.addall.com/

Another book I recently acquired, and highly recommend for all things Northern Philippines, is Eric Anderson’s, ‘In the Shape of Tradition’. Good books on the Philippines are rare; this is a really good one. Be advised that this was a limited pressing, so it may be gone soon.


Attachments:
File comment: Front of tube, with 'suksok' panel (shown horizontal)
Ph TexSoAnthong 01.jpg
Ph TexSoAnthong 01.jpg [ 63.99 KiB | Viewed 3506 times ]
File comment: Ikat panels at back of tube, with added 'suksok' patterning (shown horizontal)
Ph TexSoAnthong 02.jpg
Ph TexSoAnthong 02.jpg [ 64.62 KiB | Viewed 3506 times ]
File comment: Detail shot
Ph TexSoAnthong 03.jpg
Ph TexSoAnthong 03.jpg [ 63.3 KiB | Viewed 3506 times ]
File comment: 'Suksok' panel detail
Ph TexSoAnthong 05.jpg
Ph TexSoAnthong 05.jpg [ 63.87 KiB | Viewed 3506 times ]
File comment: Transition between Ikat and 'Suksok' panels
Ph TexSoAnthong 06.jpg
Ph TexSoAnthong 06.jpg [ 64.32 KiB | Viewed 3506 times ]

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Primarily Interest: Collection of Indigenous Fiber Objects from Melanesia for Exhibition.

Also Tribal Philippine Textiles, Adornment & Basketry, with an Emphasis on Igorot Cultures
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 2:18 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2008 7:33 am
Posts: 155
Location: Beijing
It's an interesting skirt, I assume the ikat is weft ikat, is that right?

So much Indian influence, and so different from the warp ikat traditions in the Philippines. It reminds me of Thai textiles from the mainland, is there any connection there?

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 10:57 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 1:42 pm
Posts: 1989
Location: Canterbury, UK
Hi Charlie and Chris

Just to share with people here is a link to a workshop still producing malong (at least in early 2007) which was visited by Nick Fielding, editor of Asian Textiles, the magazine of the Oxford Asian Textile Group http://www.tribaltextiles.info/articles ... g_Cntr.htm Looking at the warps shown in and being prepared for the looms shown it would seem that the ikat is weft as you suspect, Chris.

Thanks very much indeed for the info about Eric Anderson's book ‘In the Shape of Tradition’ which I have managed to order (at a price much cheaper than on any via the website for which you gave us a link!) Eric wrote an article for the main tti website on North Luzon textiles http://www.tribaltextiles.info/articles ... xtiles.htm back in February 2004 and it is a popular article on the site. I also bought from him at the time a CD 'Kalinga Costumes' with an amazing amount of material - tribal textiles, adornments, beads, weapons and historical photographs'.

I very much agree with you about ‘Sinaunang Habi’. It is very informative and the photos are just gorgeous. They may be staged in a studio but the models are 'real', the textiles very, very fine and I almost get a shiver each time I look at the images as the print quality is so very excellent that the textiles (and people) almost leap off the page. Much as I and all you generous forum members work hard at sharing information and photos - and the web provides an instantly updateable, flexible and freely accessible vehicle to do so - there is just nothing, in my mind, to touch a beautifully designed, produced and researched book! Oh to touch the printed page and almost expect to feel the textile itself! Critcally, of course, the supporting text must shed (authorative) light on provenance of the textiles. Time to get off my soap box......

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
on-line tribal textiles resource


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