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tribaltextiles.info • View topic - Jackets

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 Post subject: Re: Rungus 'tapi'
PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2004 7:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 7:35 pm
Posts: 177
Location: east coast


Attachments:
File comment: Front of an Iban shellwork jacket.
Probably early - mid 20th century.

shell jacket front.jpg
shell jacket front.jpg [ 110.27 KiB | Viewed 15660 times ]
File comment: Back of an Iban shellwork jacket. Note the subtle nonsymmetry.
shell jacket back.jpg
shell jacket back.jpg [ 118.63 KiB | Viewed 15660 times ]
File comment: Back of an old Iban jacket. The lining is of bark cloth. The buri shells are quite dirty.
Iban shell jacket back.jpg
Iban shell jacket back.jpg [ 89.17 KiB | Viewed 15660 times ]
File comment: Back of the child's beaded leather vest of the US plains Indians. Peacock is definitely French because they were not found in the US plains.
child beaded vest back.jpg
child beaded vest back.jpg [ 133.24 KiB | Viewed 15660 times ]
File comment: Front of a child's beaded leather vest from the Plains Indians in US. The US flag was a common motif. Note also the French influence.

Early to mid 20th century.

child beaded vest front .jpg
child beaded vest front .jpg [ 148.58 KiB | Viewed 15660 times ]
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 Post subject: Iban Kelambi
PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2004 10:08 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 1:42 pm
Posts: 2001
Location: Canterbury, UK
John

I have split off your jacket post to start a new jacket thread.

Here is my addition of an Iban (I think) Kelambi which is quite a favourite item in my collection. It is certainly not the sharp chemical dyes which find a place in my heart but the back of the kelambi which has been created with such naive aplomb and disregard for accuracy. The bottom of the back panel has been created by needle weaving. It is interesting that the writing on the front panels all appears upside down and is, presumably, just a form of decoration. It is unlined and I believe it is cotton.

I found the jacket hiding amongst beachwear in one of the shops of Tanjung Aru Resort in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, East Malaysia. I could not believe my eyes when I found it.

I have no idea of its age - obviously 20th century. I don't know whether the shape of the planes indicate the age or whether it is a restriction of the technique - the latter I think! I would love to have seen it being worn by the person for whom it was originally made.


Attachments:
File comment: Back of Kalambi. Length from shoulder to bottom of kalambi 49 cm, width across back 47.5 cm
Borneo-(83).jpg
Borneo-(83).jpg [ 64.92 KiB | Viewed 15650 times ]
File comment: Front of Kalambi
Borneo-(76).jpg
Borneo-(76).jpg [ 53.55 KiB | Viewed 15650 times ]
File comment: Detail of Kalambi
Borneo-(88).jpg
Borneo-(88).jpg [ 52.07 KiB | Viewed 15650 times ]

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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 Post subject: Q & A
PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2004 10:18 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 1:42 pm
Posts: 2001
Location: Canterbury, UK

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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 Post subject: Re: Iban Kelambi
PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2004 6:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 7:35 pm
Posts: 177
Location: east coast


Attachments:
File comment: Man's kalambi in sungkit technique on commercial red cloth.
jacket 1.jpg
jacket 1.jpg [ 129.85 KiB | Viewed 15626 times ]
File comment: closeup of the badge section of the kalambi
jacket  2 badge.jpg
jacket 2 badge.jpg [ 102.93 KiB | Viewed 15626 times ]
File comment: Iban ikatted kalambi showing the back view. All handspun threads.
kalambi 1 back.jpg
kalambi 1 back.jpg [ 122.46 KiB | Viewed 15626 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2004 9:28 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 1:42 pm
Posts: 2001
Location: Canterbury, UK
Sorry, John, my British way of speaking. I don't like bright chemical colours and red, yellow and green together are probably my least favourite combination. I enjoy mellow browns and softer natural dyes and am naturally attracted to them. I would choose to wear such colours, decorate with them and find I can't help an affinity with those colours in textiles generally.

I don't know whether the kelambi is local to Sabah or not - only that I found it there. As it was totally out of context with the shop it was even more suprising. I went into the shop again the following year and they dismissed out of hand that they might have anything similar in stock.

Interesting that the book 'An Introduction to the Traditional Costumes of Sabah' does not list Iban at all which would suggest that they are not normally found within that State, at least in any great numbers. 7 different ethnic groups are mentioned although the Preface refers to 50 ethnic groups being found in Sabah.

Is it sungkit? Well it is the oddest supplementary weft I have ever seen if it is. I have never seen anything quite like it. The decoration is similar on both sides of the background red woven cloth. It looks to me as if it has been applied by a needle - see enlarged detail below.


Attachments:
File comment: detail of supplementary thread technique used on main body of kalambi
Borneo-(82)w.jpg
Borneo-(82)w.jpg [ 53.49 KiB | Viewed 15610 times ]

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