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 Post subject: TURKMEN ? JACKET
PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 11:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 30, 2007 11:52 am
Posts: 72
Location: france
Bonjour à tous

Here is a new piece of ethnic costume that has rejoined my collection. It was sold as "african", but it is more likely from central Asia.
The cloth is a silk stripped weaving. The lining is made of a coarse hanspun cotton weaving, dark green indigo batik dyed with plant motifs. The inner border is made of a strip of silk ikat textile. The jacket is heavily decorated by numerous amulet like pieces of jewellery that make a metallic sound at the slightest moving (each end of the chains is a little round bell). Other decorations are made of medium cauris. The size is likely for a young person (not a child), and don't know if it is for a boy or for a girl.

I am looking for a more accurate origin than "central asia". The jewellery looks like turkmen. But the cauris seem to be unknown among central asia turkmens like Tekke. The work of jewellery is quite coarse.
If some body can have an idea.....

Louis Dubreuil


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 Post subject: other details
PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 4:40 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 30, 2007 11:52 am
Posts: 72
Location: france
Here is a picture showing the inner border lining made of a strip of silk IKAT. We can see also the design of the indigo batik (?) lining with meander leaves ans boteh palmettes . This maybe can give some clue for origin. One thing is also odd for a "turkmen" cloth : the use of cauris seems to be unusual among these peoples. Boteh and cauris can lead us to Afghanistan or Pakistan ?

To be followed


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 5:39 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 2:51 am
Posts: 69
Location: New York
Hi Louis:

Mystery pieces are the most fun!

I took out The Arts and Crafts of Turkestan by Johannes Kalter and the ornaments are probably from Turkestan. The ornament in the center back bottom looks more Kuchi (Afghan / Pakistan). Striped robes were found in Turkestan. The silk ikat strip is Central Asian

I question whether the cowrie shells are original. While coweries show up in all sorts of odd locations, I don't associate them with Turkestan - although I don't pretend to be an expert. The furthest west I know of are on women's headdresses in Nuristan / Kafiristan - I have never seen them on Central Asian material.

When I was in Istanbul in 2001, I saw Central Asian vintage or older children's clothing with heavy silver ornamentation that had been added for the market.

I'd be interested in seeing the stitching on the inside of the robe that holds on the ornamentation. What I can see looks like it was done at the same time and is fairly loose.

I hope this helps.

_________________
Anna


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 Post subject: turkmen jacket
PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 8:22 am 
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Joined: Wed May 30, 2007 11:52 am
Posts: 72
Location: france
Bonjout IKAT

You are right. The best guess about this cloth is that it comes from somewhere in Afghanistan and that it is a construction made from different pieces : turkmen garment with original linings (ikat silk and coarse weaving batik dyed) and added pieces of (kuchi ?) poor metal and glass jewellery and added cowries.
The added pieces have been sewn at the same time with the same thread. The cloth is used and shows evident signs of wear, but there is no sign of wear (oxyd stains on the cloth under the metallic pieces for ex) linked with the metallic pieces : the cloth seems to haven't been worn since the added pieces have been attached. So this jacket can be likely a piece made in Afghanistan for the market, sometime in the mid XX°.

You can see a discussion about this on turkotek.com

Cordialement

Louis


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 1:24 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 2:51 am
Posts: 69
Location: New York
Hi Louis:

I just read the tread on Turkotek. My guess is that the lining is a block print from Turkmenistan. Here is something similar
http://www.tribalchase.com/WO.php?title ... is=pattern

My first thought was that the jewelry, which I assumed to be "white metal" was Kuchi because of the glass but the form didn't match the pieces I have seen http://www.marilynsimports.com/13.html which is why I checked the book - and it did appear to match Turkestan. But then there is the cuff with glass on this page, which is Kuchi http://www.marilynsimports.com/14.html

I wonder whether the robe has been cut down. There is something about the relation of the length of the neck opening to the rest of the robe that seems... off - and it looks like a later binding was added at the bottom. I haven't seen that type of edging before.

The Power of Headdresses - Plate 102 on page 150 has a cap from the Pamirs of Afghanistan that has cowries. When I was poking around on-line looking for a photo, I came across this, which, to my surprise, is Turkoman. http://www.anahitagallery.com/articles- ... mens-magic

The Banjara of India use cowries as edge trim, in case you are interested in other places they show up http://www.boloji.com/wfs5/wfs940.htm

This is a Kalash headdress http://images.rgs.org/imageDetails.aspx?barcode=33162


So... definitely Turkoman - and a fun garment to figure out!

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Anna


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