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tribaltextiles.info • View topic - Wa or Yao or...? Phula, Xa Pho

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 11:46 am 
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Posts: 155
Location: Beijing
Here are some outfits from Yunnan, I'm posting them partly because they are pretty and partly in the hope that forum members can comment on the identification.

Both sets are similar, from the same village perhaps, so I am posting the jacket from one set and the skirt from the other They are embroidered and decorated with seeds (Job's tears or similar). At first sight I took them to be Yao, but one seller told me that they are Wa minority items. The motifs are uncannily like Yao embroidery however, both in the motifs and the division into blocks of color.

The fabric is hand-loomed cotton dyed with indigo.

Jess Pourret's excellent book on the Yao describes mostly trousers and says that few Yao groups have skirts, and the tiny jackets are is unlike anything I have seen previously from Yao. Most Yao jackets are very long.

I have seen very few Wa items, but do have a skirt in my collection that is probably Wa. The picture of this is the last item in the photos. The decoration is unlike the two sets, except that it does have seeds in star shapes.

So there it is. Yao or Wa, or some other group perhaps?

I'm confident at least that the Yunnan location is correct. There is quite a lot of material coming from this area at the moment.


Attachments:
File comment: jacket from first set
CET49A1t.jpg
CET49A1t.jpg [ 49.01 KiB | Viewed 8560 times ]
File comment: detail of jacket from first set
CET49A5t.jpg
CET49A5t.jpg [ 81.8 KiB | Viewed 8560 times ]
File comment: skirt from second set
CET50B1t.jpg
CET50B1t.jpg [ 90.73 KiB | Viewed 8560 times ]
File comment: Detail of skirt from second set. Might be representations of stupas.
CET50B5t.jpg
CET50B5t.jpg [ 132.88 KiB | Viewed 8560 times ]
File comment: Wa minority skirt
CET11A.jpg
CET11A.jpg [ 54.04 KiB | Viewed 8559 times ]
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 1:15 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2003 8:50 pm
Posts: 101
Location: Cheam, UK
Hello Chris

Your jacket and skirt come from the Phula (Xa Pho) a Tibeto-Burman minority from northern Vietnam. I don't know if this group are also found in Yunnan however. Small minorities such as this are often found in scattered, isolated pockets among other groups, (a situation which is quite common in this part of the world, even with larger groups.) so they may indeed occur in Yunnan, but be catagorized with some other larger minority.

I have a similar jacket from the Phula, which I purchased a couple of years also from Ron Simpson in London, and have since been on the look out for a matching skirt. These jackets are very lovely and the Phula quite obscure
There is brief info and pics in 'Vietnam Museum of Ethnology' catalogue,
Vietnam -' Image of the Community of 54 Ethnic Groups' and Michael Howard's 'Textiles of the Highland Peoples of Northern Vietnam, Mon-Khmer, Hmong-Mien, and Tibeto-Burman' further details of which can be found in Pamela's bibliographies.


Last edited by siriol richards on Sat Jan 02, 2010 3:55 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 2:20 pm 
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Attachments:
File comment: Four Phula, Xa Pho girls in Sa Pa, Lao Cai Province, north west Vietnam. Note the wool embroidery on the blouse and skirts with Jacob's tear seeds on the blouses.
9510I18e.jpg
9510I18e.jpg [ 46.11 KiB | Viewed 8542 times ]

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 2:32 pm 
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If it is confirmed that the Phula are also found in Yunnan, as I suspected might be the case, have they been documented in Chinese publications and if so any idea what 'offical group' they are included in? Could it by any chance be Wa (Va)?
I am a bit hazy about the distribution of the Wa group,although I know they are an important ethinic minority in Burma. Some Wa women also wear tight fitting short jackets with no front opening. at least on the Chinese side of the border. However one snag against the Phula being included in this group by the Chinese authorities is that the Wa are speakers of a Mon Khmer language


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 6:54 pm 
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 9:13 am 
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 9:21 am 
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Attachments:
File comment: detail of the other jacket, note the later repairs in bright red
CET50A2t.jpg
CET50A2t.jpg [ 82.65 KiB | Viewed 8481 times ]
File comment: the other skirt
CET49B1t.jpg
CET49B1t.jpg [ 77.67 KiB | Viewed 8481 times ]
File comment: detail of embroidery on skirt
CET49B3t.jpg
CET49B3t.jpg [ 124.14 KiB | Viewed 8481 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 11:12 am 
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 11:05 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 1:42 pm
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Attachments:
File comment: Phu La Lao Female ("Ethnic Minorities In Vietnam")
Phu-La-Lao-Female_2w.jpg
Phu-La-Lao-Female_2w.jpg [ 91.86 KiB | Viewed 8426 times ]
File comment: Phu La Lao Costume ("Patterns on Textiles - of ethnic groups in North East Vietnam")
Phu-La-Lao-Costumew.jpg
Phu-La-Lao-Costumew.jpg [ 86.78 KiB | Viewed 8426 times ]
File comment: "Pattern on Phu La Women's shirt" ("Patterns on Textiles - of ethnic groups in North East Vietnam")
Phu-La-Lao-Top_2w.jpg
Phu-La-Lao-Top_2w.jpg [ 72.52 KiB | Viewed 8426 times ]
File comment: Phu La lao Female x1, & Male x2 ("Patterns on Textiles - of ethnic groups in North East Vietnam")
Phu-La-lao-Female&Malew.jpg
Phu-La-lao-Female&Malew.jpg [ 93 KiB | Viewed 8426 times ]
File comment: Phu La Han/Hao Females ("Ethnic Minorities In Vietnam")
Phu-La-Han-Femalesw.jpg
Phu-La-Han-Femalesw.jpg [ 91.01 KiB | Viewed 8426 times ]

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