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tribaltextiles.info • View topic - QUINTESSENTIALLY SARIBAS: Portrait of an Iban weaver

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 2:32 pm 
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Location: Kuching, Malaysia
Besides mastering the ikat technique, a weaver must also be able to demonstrate her control over the sungkit or supplementary weft method.

Attached is a belantan or ceremonial wrap woven by Sendi. She would wrap all her newborns in this ceremonial wrap at their ritual introduction to the community.


Attachments:
belantan lengthwise.jpg
belantan lengthwise.jpg [ 69.5 KiB | Viewed 13304 times ]
belantan.jpg
belantan.jpg [ 81.45 KiB | Viewed 13303 times ]
belantan right detail.jpg
belantan right detail.jpg [ 90.95 KiB | Viewed 13303 times ]
belantan left detail.jpg
belantan left detail.jpg [ 96.74 KiB | Viewed 13303 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 2:35 pm 
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She must also be able to richly clothe her husband, her sons and their sons' sons.

Attached is a ceremonial loin-cloth or sirat raja.


Attachments:
sirat.jpg
sirat.jpg [ 75.31 KiB | Viewed 13298 times ]
sirat front.jpg
sirat front.jpg [ 84.78 KiB | Viewed 13298 times ]
sirat back.jpg
sirat back.jpg [ 81.96 KiB | Viewed 13298 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 2:40 pm 
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And when a weaver performs the high rites and rituals of her people, she must clothe herself with blessings.

Attached a baju burong or jacket patterned with auspicious omen birds (kebat or ikat) with back flap of gold threads (supplementary weft).


Attachments:
baju front.jpg
baju front.jpg [ 77.43 KiB | Viewed 13267 times ]
baju back.jpg
baju back.jpg [ 83.06 KiB | Viewed 13267 times ]
baju back flap.jpg
baju back flap.jpg [ 113.93 KiB | Viewed 13267 times ]


Last edited by vernonkeditjolly on Tue Sep 15, 2009 4:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 2:46 pm 
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Sendi bought fine gold threads and very fine English mill yarn in Singapore. Her pièce de résistance in the supplementary weft technique is this kain keberaya or ceremonial sarong.


Attachments:
kain keberaya.jpg
kain keberaya.jpg [ 64.61 KiB | Viewed 13285 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 8:43 pm 
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Vernon,

Stunning textiles! How very interesting to see what a very accomplished weaver Sendi was across various techniques. What breadth! The baju is amazing. I would love to see some details of the main body of the cloth which seems to be very fine ikat from the glimpse showing above the back flap. The figures of eight (to give the motifs a rough ID) in the flap itself are beautifully curving - dare I say, trust a skilled Iban weaver to produce fine curves!

Questions? On the back flap of the baju the spirit figures (are they?) have different mouth shapes between the front row and the back row. Is there a particular significance in this?

The kain keberaya is so fine and intricate as to almost seem machine woven. It looks to be of silk but I think, from your comments, that it might be very fine English mill yarn. Does it have gold thread? Not easy to tell from the overall photo without a detail.

Am I right in thinking that it would only be a high-born, specially trained weaver who would attempt textiles across such a breadth? I admit to surprise at seeing such a breadth. This thread goes a long way to support claims as to Sendi's consummate skills as a weaver.

Thanks very much for labelling the photo of the family at your father's christening - brings it more alive. I always smile at very small children being 'Aunt....'! I can, however, see the makings of a formidable lady in 'Aunt Alice'!

Very many thanks for continuing this feast for our delight.....

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Pamela

http://www.tribaltextiles.info
on-line tribal textiles resource


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 3:57 am 
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Location: Kuching, Malaysia


Attachments:
baju burong indu.JPG
baju burong indu.JPG [ 123.4 KiB | Viewed 13238 times ]
detail of baju burong indu.JPG
detail of baju burong indu.JPG [ 171.21 KiB | Viewed 13238 times ]


Last edited by vernonkeditjolly on Wed Sep 16, 2009 9:58 am, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 4:20 am 
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Attachments:
sirat mengan.jpg
sirat mengan.jpg [ 98.48 KiB | Viewed 13231 times ]
sirat mengan back.jpg
sirat mengan back.jpg [ 93.95 KiB | Viewed 13231 times ]
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 4:28 am 
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For readers who might not have read my blog, , Indai Nan (Ini Julia) and Indai Gulang (Ini Yak) were my teachers and principal informants. Both were grandaunts.


Attachments:
File comment: Sister to Granddad, who was the son-in-law of Sendi. Indai Nan was also a pupil of Sendi.
Indai Nan.jpg
Indai Nan.jpg [ 60.25 KiB | Viewed 13227 times ]
File comment: Niece of Sendi. Her father was Sendi's brother.
Indai Gulang.jpg
Indai Gulang.jpg [ 77.21 KiB | Viewed 13227 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 4:45 am 
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Indai Nan was a pupil of Sendi and accompanied her on her travels to Singapore, where this photograph was taken just before the Japanese Occupation.


Attachments:
family portrait.JPG
family portrait.JPG [ 85.14 KiB | Viewed 13222 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 9:00 pm 
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Location: Canterbury, UK
Vernon,

Very, very many thanks for your considered answers and the additional photos. I smiled to have identified Aunt Alice as a future matriarch (and power to be reckoned with)! Interesting how photos, even the very posed ones of the period, pick up characteristics :wink:!

I am interested that the two fine ends of the loincloth (the ends only) are quite different one from the other and the ends of loincloth which has its long length of fabric are also different although not quite so extremely so. Is there any tradition as to which end would be worn in front and which behind? I can see that, in your Facebook profile, you are wearing the loincloth with the end on the left in your photo here to the front. Aaagh! I can see that you have shown 'sirat mengan back' and sirat mengan'. Yes, it seems right that the spirits should be on the front, not the back - I don't think I would be comfortable wearing them the other way around.

With the photo of Indai Gulang, are those all pua that she has woven surrounding you both? I can see white selvedges down the side indicating a master weaver.

So, was 'Grandmom' Sendi's daughter as 'Granddad, who was son-in-law of Sendi'? Did your Grandmom weave. I think that Indai Gulang and Indai Nan would have been about the same generation as Grandmom. Did Grandmom live away from Sarawak in Singapore?

Sorry, lots of questions.....

My mantra for the forum is 'sharing' - thank you so very much, Vernon for so wholeheartedly sharing your family and cultural heritage with us here.

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Pamela

http://www.tribaltextiles.info
on-line tribal textiles resource


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 5:57 pm 
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 9:24 am 
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Attachments:
pic05.jpg
pic05.jpg [ 53.67 KiB | Viewed 13113 times ]
File comment: Jelawai's ultimate piece was finished by Indai Gulang. As Jelawai had passed away, Sendi (being the most senior weaver in the family) took the honour of naming this blanket. She called it the Seletak Bintang Banyak or The Seven Sisters (Pleiades).
Seleta Bintang Banyak (2).JPG
Seleta Bintang Banyak (2).JPG [ 75.61 KiB | Viewed 13113 times ]
File comment: Sendi's sirat
bersirat.jpg
bersirat.jpg [ 52.33 KiB | Viewed 13113 times ]
File comment: Sendi's sirat (boy on right)
4947_101502969859994_100000008754590_42444_8063357_n.jpg
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 9:46 am 
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Location: Kuching, Malaysia


Attachments:
pua007.jpg
pua007.jpg [ 133.4 KiB | Viewed 13104 times ]
File comment: That's Hanne Christensen's feet in the background :-)

http://vernonkeditjolly.blogspot.com/2009/09/hanne-christensen.html

pua006.jpg
pua006.jpg [ 119.25 KiB | Viewed 13104 times ]
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