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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 9:52 am 
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Location: Beijing
Here is an odd little jacket that I have been unable to identify ...

The construction is very simple, with a hole at the top for the collar, and two long loops at the sides that could be called "sleeves". The front of the jacket is plain indigo, but the back is decorated with indigo batik, with pale pink silk embroidery on top (probably paler now than it once was).

The motifs are geometric, except for what might be tiny human figures in groups of four on either side of the central cross.

The trader that sold it to me thought it was from Yunnan, but could not provide any sensible guesses beyond that.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 10:15 am 
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Ann B Goodman has come back to me after receiving her weekly forum bulletin with the following comment about your jacket, Chris:
Quote:
"As for Chris Buckley's embroidered and batik jacket, I believe it is Yao Baiku Nandam Guangxi [Corpus6; 498-500 and Pourret, Jess “The Yao Nationality p.216, p.102]. I think that "Baiku" means "white trousers" for the men of this group wear tight-at-the-knee white linen trousers with orange and black decoration similar to that on the womens tunic. I have attached here the male and female dresses of this group from my collection."
I love those trousers!


Attachments:
File comment: male clothing in Ann B Goodman's collection - Yao Baiku Nandam Guangxi
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File comment: female clothing in Ann B Goodman's collection - Yao Baiku Nandam Guangxi
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 12:15 pm 
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Chris' textile is a woman's sleevless shirt from the White Trouser Yao, as correctly attributed by Ann. I would just add that besides living in Nandan (northernmost Guangxi) there is also a sizeable White Trouser Yao population in Libo, Guizhou.

There population at one time probably formed a contiguous line from Libo, through Huanjiang and into Nandan. Historically there was a large population of White Trouser Yao in Huanjiang, but over the course of a few centuries the Maonan pushed them off their ancestral land by driving them westwards across the Dagou River (the river separating Nandan and Huanjiang) into the high mountaintops of Nandan.

In my experience Nandan is one of the few areas in Guizhou/ Guangxi where men still often wear traditional dress and grow their hair long.

Steven

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 1:33 pm 
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Thanks to Pamela, Ann and Steven! the motifs on Ann's jacket do look very similar. And now that you mention it, the designs do have the same flavor as other textiles attributed to the Nandan area ... geometrical with squares and crosses.

And I like the trousers very much ... rather an ecclesiastical flavor, would not look out of place on a Papal prelate perhaps...


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 1:41 pm 
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Chris' photos have been nagging at the back of my mind and Ann and Steven's comments finally prompted me to have a look in, to quote from my Chinese bibliography http://www.tribaltextiles.info/bibliogr ... _books.htm on the main tti website:
Quote:
""Art of Guangxi Minorities Customs: Colorful Costumes" (2 Volumes) - Guangxi Minzhu Fengsu Yishu: Wucai Yishang (2 Volumes) published in 2001. ISBN 7-80674-112-7. One volume full of excellent photos of various minorities in Guangxi weaving their traditional costume;second volume with photos of the costume. All text is in Chinese. Excellent quality photographs."


In the volume which shows the costume being worn I found photos on 3 pages which I will post below. In the other book are several large close-up photos of the male and female clothing and a lot of Chinese text. I have included the Chinese script with the photos below in case anyone qualified feels stong enough to translate!

Thanks to Steven for his info above. I wonder if this group is also found in Yunnan which might explain the variation in colouring shown in Chris' textile compared to the ones Ann has and are shown in the book?


Attachments:
File comment: photo on page 82 of "Art of Guangxi Minorities Customs: Colorful Costumes" in the volume with photos of costumes being worn
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File comment: photo on page 83 of "Art of Guangxi Minorities Customs: Colorful Costumes" in the volume with photos of costumes being worn
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File comment: photo on page 82 of "Art of Guangxi Minorities Customs: Colorful Costumes" in the volume with photos of costumes being worn
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 12:40 pm 
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Somewhat to my embarrassment I have found a copy of 'The Yao Nationality' sitting quietly at the bottom of a pile of books waiting to be catalogued! ('The Yao Nationality', Editor The Nationalities Affairs Commission of Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, Published by People's Publishing House, first published in May 1990, ISBN 7-01-000761-6/D.253).

I have found the picture on page 216 that Ann referred to above. You will see that the second girl from the left seems to have a blouse similar to Chris' above with the white background and pale pink embroidery. I am posting the photo below. Looking through the book I also found some other photos on page 33 of 'Baiku Yao'. Here, one woman has a natural background blouse with wax resist. I can't see any embroidery in the main back panel but I think there is some in the bottom piece to the blouse which is in a pale pink colour.

Searching the web for Baiku found the page http://english.cri.cn/4026/2007/03/24/44@208669.htm which has this description of the Baiku Yao:
Quote:
The White Pants Yao, or Baiku Yao in Chinese, is a branch of the Yao ethnic group. They get their name because the men wear white bloomers. The Baiku Yao have a population of around 30 thousand. They mainly live in the mountainous regions of Yunnan and Guizhou provinces, as well as Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region in southwestern China.

I am assuming that the photos I am posting below are all from Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region. Interesting to see that blouses either left natural or dyed a mid blue seem to be worn at the same time by women at market together. One cannot, of course, be sure that they are from the same village. The white background seems to be worn both by an older woman and a younger one.


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File comment: 'Buying new dresses' page 216 'The Yao Nationality'
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File comment: 'Baiku Yao women marcketing in a fair' page 33 'The Yao Nationality'
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File comment: 'A Baiku Yao hunter' page 33 'The Yao Nationality'
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File comment: 'Beautiful sceneries in a Baiku Yao village, page 33 'The Yao Nationality'
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