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PostPosted: Fri Aug 06, 2010 7:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 30, 2009 8:34 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Amsterdam
Hello Pamela and Susan:

Just returned from Istanbul with two items of great curiosity, as I am a hemp collector, and Turkic hemp weaving traditions are rare.

I have attached photos of two saddle bag panels [?] which have been identified as Azeri and possibly Shahsevan. A brief look on the Internet reveals that several of the motifs on these two are shared with other textiles from Karabagh and Kamseh regions in northwestern Iran. The smaller (01 - approx. 43 cm H X 45 cm W) seems of all natural dyes; while the larger (02 - approx. 50 cm H X 60 cm W) is not as old as analine "Hot Pink" and "Fluorange" are present along with natural colors.

The background is open over much of the surface exposing the foundation which certainly not woven of cotton. The sumakh [?] discontinuous supplemental weft patterning is of wool over a bast fiber foundation, hemp or possibly flax, but not cotton.

Does anyone have any comments concerning these two textiles?

Rob


Attachments:
File comment: Bast fiber bag panel 02. Frayed foundation cloth reveals it is neither wool nor cotton.
Shahsevan-Hemp02c-fray-TTF.jpg
Shahsevan-Hemp02c-fray-TTF.jpg [ 79.66 KiB | Viewed 3217 times ]
File comment: Bast fiber bag panel 02. Motifs resemble those from Karabagh and Kamseh regions of Iran.
Shahsevan-Hemp02a-panel-TTF.jpg
Shahsevan-Hemp02a-panel-TTF.jpg [ 80.31 KiB | Viewed 3217 times ]
File comment: Bast fiber bag panel 01. Black stains caused by wet storage and fungal attack are common in hemp.
Shahsevan-Hemp01c-close-TTF.jpg
Shahsevan-Hemp01c-close-TTF.jpg [ 80.5 KiB | Viewed 3217 times ]
File comment: Bast fiber bag panel 01. The foundation cloth is easily visible.
Shahsevan-Hemp01b-detail-TTF.jpg
Shahsevan-Hemp01b-detail-TTF.jpg [ 80.43 KiB | Viewed 3217 times ]
File comment: Bast fiber bag panel 01. Motifs resemble those from Karabagh and Kamseh regions of Iran.
Shahsevan-Hemp01a-panel-TTF.jpg
Shahsevan-Hemp01a-panel-TTF.jpg [ 80.02 KiB | Viewed 3217 times ]

_________________
Robert C. Clarke
Textile Collector and Researcher
International Hemp Association - Projects Manager
Society for Economic Botany - Life Member
Textile Society of America - Member
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 4:21 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2003 6:34 pm
Posts: 393
Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
Hi Rob-
I can see how you were attracted to these, especially with the curious use of fibers. The colors are also interesting- I particularly am attracted to anything with those shades of green. There's so much to learn about tribal textiles from this part of the world- people write books on small subgroups of one tribe- and the academics' findings often change. One key to ascertaining the origin does seem to be the structure- direction of ply, technique used to weave, etc. The animal figures in the second bag seem to have an interesting diagonal weave employed- perhaps this may provide a clue. I also find the all white backgrounds surprising.

In quickly perusing some of my library I cannot find anything quite like either of these. One of my favorite and trusted volumes is the Eilands' Oriental Rugs, A Complete Guide and in the index there is one reference for "hemp", which says that "bast fibers - jute, hemp, linen, and ramie - have seen little use in Near Eastern rugs, although they are sometimes used in woven products of the Balkans and India. Jute is by far the most common, and it is usually employed as a foundation material (as a substitute for cotton)..."

If I find more, I'll post it. The chase is on!

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Susan Stem

http://www.tribaltrappings.com
http://tribaltrappings.blogspot.com/


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 9:28 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 7:22 am
Posts: 65
Location: germany
I think those diagonal rows are embrodered. Rob can check the reverse of the areas. If I am right, the red threads on the reverse should be vertical.
If not, ...?


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