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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 12:39 pm 
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Here is another Li skirt which I think may be a Run Li skirt - similar to one shown by Pamela http://www.tribaltextiles.info/pacross/pac_collection/Li/ba-sa-dung-li_skirt_01.htm


Attachments:
File comment: Full front view
Full front.jpg
Full front.jpg [ 43.09 KiB | Viewed 7147 times ]
File comment: Front view: Top section
Top detail 1.jpg
Top detail 1.jpg [ 44.68 KiB | Viewed 7147 times ]
File comment: Front view: Bottom right
Front detail 2 right.jpg
Front detail 2 right.jpg [ 44.97 KiB | Viewed 7147 times ]
File comment: Front view: Bottom left
Front detail 2 left.jpg
Front detail 2 left.jpg [ 45.12 KiB | Viewed 7147 times ]


Last edited by iain on Tue Jun 24, 2008 1:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 12:52 pm 
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Here are the back view images of the skirt.


Attachments:
File comment: Full back view
Full back.jpg
Full back.jpg [ 43.14 KiB | Viewed 7130 times ]
File comment: Back view: Top section
Back detail 1.jpg
Back detail 1.jpg [ 39.97 KiB | Viewed 7129 times ]
File comment: Back view: Bottom right
Back detail 2 right.jpg
Back detail 2 right.jpg [ 46.38 KiB | Viewed 7129 times ]
File comment: Back view: Bottom left
Back detail 2 left.jpg
Back detail 2 left.jpg [ 48.36 KiB | Viewed 7129 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 5:39 pm 
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Iain

Yes, this is a skirt of the Li group speaking the Run dialect. It was a skirt from this group which was my first exposure, on a street in Kaili, to the Li. I went back to the room where the dealer was living and there, piled up on the floor, were many Run skirts as well as other Li textiles including the blouses which are worn with the skirts. I just could not accept that the blouses did, in fact, go with skirts as they were so very different. I remember going through the pile of skirts trying to find the finest. I didn't know what I was buying, which group it was (I had then never heard of the Li). I was just wowed by the amazing weaving. Strangely, 6 months later, I saw a skirt from the Li speaking the Meifu dialect - your other thread of today http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... php?t=1181 - in a gallery in Bangkok and immediately felt that it was also Li although the styles are pretty different. I had one of those 'yes' moments when I looked at the label and saw it said 'Li'. That skirt is now in my collection and also the one from Olivier's collection bought when he was refocusing his textile holdings.

I am still wowed by the weaving and fascinated by the images in the skirt many of which you find in other Li material culture.

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 Post subject: Second Li skirt
PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 1:27 am 
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Here is another skirt I have which also appears to be from the Run Li.


Attachments:
File comment: Full front view
Front full.jpg
Front full.jpg [ 41.76 KiB | Viewed 7107 times ]
File comment: Front view: Top section
Front top.jpg
Front top.jpg [ 42.7 KiB | Viewed 7107 times ]
File comment: Front view: Botom right
Front bottom right.jpg
Front bottom right.jpg [ 49.03 KiB | Viewed 7107 times ]
File comment: Front view: Bottom left
Front bottom left.jpg
Front bottom left.jpg [ 46.47 KiB | Viewed 7107 times ]
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 Post subject: Back view images
PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 1:30 am 
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Here are the images from the back of this skirt.


Attachments:
File comment: Full back view
Back full.jpg
Back full.jpg [ 44.57 KiB | Viewed 7101 times ]
File comment: Back view: Top section
Back top.jpg
Back top.jpg [ 44.7 KiB | Viewed 7101 times ]
File comment: Back view: Bottom right
Back bottom right.jpg
Back bottom right.jpg [ 55.06 KiB | Viewed 7101 times ]
File comment: Back view: Bottom left
Back bottom left.jpg
Back bottom left.jpg [ 51.73 KiB | Viewed 7101 times ]
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 Post subject: Li links on forum
PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 3:03 pm 
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Whilst spendng a fantastic day with Andrew and textiles today he showed me the following forum page which shows a number of Li textiles including several Basadung Li and Meifu Li skirts. Apologies for not searching it earlier!
http://www.tribaltextiles.info/community/viewtopic.php?t=214&highlight=


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 Post subject: Weaving details
PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 12:47 am 
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I attach an image of the inside(reverse) of the skirt above to show what I think is termed "blind" weaving. I have pushed up the contrast to show the underlying pattern but am unsure as to how this is blind weaving is achieved....


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File comment: Reverse detail
Inside of skirt.jpg
Inside of skirt.jpg [ 54.15 KiB | Viewed 6922 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 4:55 pm 
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Iain

This style of weaving is found elsewhere in S E Asia. Mru and Khumi skirts are an example http://www.tribaltextiles.info/Gallerie ... _Zantu.htm For a detail of back and front of a Mru skirt see http://www.tribaltextiles.info/Gallerie ... kirt02.htm An explanation may be found in the excellent book: "Mantles of Merit: Chin Textiles from Myanmar, India and Bangladesh" by David W. & Barbara G. Fraser. This may be continuous or discontinuous. Page 46, Patterning:

Quote:
"The structures most commonly used in Chin textiles to decorate the ground fabric are variants of supplementary weft patterning. In supplementary weft patterning the supplementary weft floats across the warps on the obverse in a sequence that creates the pattern. A separate, structural weft regularly interlaces the warps to create the textile's structural integrity, but does not contribute to the decoration of the ground fabric. The relationship between the supplementary weft and the structural weft depends in part on whether the textile is warp-faced or not. In many warp-faced textiles, 1-faced supplementary weft patterning is created by making the supplementary weft ride in the shed with the structural weft when it is not floating on the obverse, so no pattern is seen on the reverse (Figure 59). The patterning may be made with continuous or discontinuous supplementary wefts, the choice generally depending on whether or not the patterning weft travels across the full breadth of the textile. Patterning may be done with a single color of supplementary weft or up to three different colors, floating in different patterns.........

1-faced complementary weft patterning differs from 1-faced supplementary weft patterning in the absence of a purely structural weft and the presence of at least two patterning wefts (Figure 61). One patterning weft simply interlaces the warps while the other may float on the obverse, but the two patterning wefts exchange roles regularly...."


I have been in touch with David Fraser about this book in the past and need to check through my old emails to see if we have permission to post images on the forum. I will see if I can post the 2 diagrams referred to above either from a previous permission or by contacting him again. The text to the two diagrams are:
Quote:
"59 1-faced supplementary weft patterning, continuous. Structural wefts are stippled. Weft rows 2-6 hve one (row 4) or two (rows 2, 3, 5, 6) supplementary wefts (lightly or heavily hatched) that float on the obverse where they do not lie in the shed with their structural weft, so the pattern shows only on the obverse. The supplementary wefts travel the full loom width, hence the term "continuous"."

Quote:
"61 1-faced complementary weft patterning. Each weft row has two wefts (lightly hatched, heavily hatched) that contribute to the patterning and has no purely structural weft. Where one weft floats over 5 warps to create a line of color, the weft of contrasting color simply interlaces the warps to maintain the structural integrity of the fabric."
David has also authored the following:
"A Guide to Weft Twining and Related Structures with Interacting Wefts" by David Fraser, University of Pennsylvania Press, 1989. ISBN: 0-8122-8200-0 and is clearly deeply into weft techniques!!

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Pamela

http://www.tribaltextiles.info
on-line tribal textiles resource


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 2:46 pm 
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David Fraser has responded positively to my email request to post figures 59 and 61 from page 47 of "Mantles of Merit: Chin Textiles from Myanmar, India and Bangladesh" by David W. & Barbara G. Fraser kindly giving his and Barbara's permission and I attach the diagrams with their text below. David also mentioned that
Quote:
"Mantles of Merit was awarded the RL Shep Award from the Textile Society of America (for the 2005's best book on ethnic textiles) and the Millia Davenport Award from the Costume Society of America (for the year's best book on costume)".

David also gave me info on the recent release of 'Eclectic Collecting: Art from Burma in the Denison Museum' details of which I posted earlier on today on the Books section of the forum http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... php?t=1193 David says of this book:
Quote:
"Much of the book is devoted to chapters on textiles of the various hill groups - including a chapter Barbara and I contributed on the Chin."


Attachments:
File comment: Mantles of Merit, page 47 Fig 59 1-faced supplementary weft patterning, continuous. Structural wefts are stippled. Weft rows 2-6 hve one (row 4) or two (rows 2, 3, 5, 6) supplementary wefts (lightly or heavily hatched) that float on the obverse where they
fig59p47MantlesofMerit.jpg
fig59p47MantlesofMerit.jpg [ 65.34 KiB | Viewed 6814 times ]
File comment: Mantles of Merit, page 47 Fig 61 1-faced complementary weft patterning. Each weft row has two wefts (lightly hatched, heavily hatched) that contribute to the patterning and has no purely structural weft. Where one weft floats over 5 warps to create a line
fig61p47MantlesofMerit.jpg
fig61p47MantlesofMerit.jpg [ 62.37 KiB | Viewed 6813 times ]

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Pamela

http://www.tribaltextiles.info
on-line tribal textiles resource
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