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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 4:39 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 30, 2007 11:52 am
Posts: 72
Location: france
Bonjour à tous

From my collection here is a curious cloth, likely made for being put over an other cloth. The material is hemp with embroideries that seem to be made of cotton. The ensemble has a very "rustic" look. I think it is from one of the numerous minorities living in China, but I would appreciate some location and use precisions

Merci d'avance

louis


Attachments:
miao tunique1.jpg
miao tunique1.jpg [ 43.02 KiB | Viewed 16482 times ]
miao tunique2.jpg
miao tunique2.jpg [ 37.47 KiB | Viewed 16482 times ]
miao3.jpg
miao3.jpg [ 51.85 KiB | Viewed 16482 times ]
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 Post subject: Possibly Yi
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 2:40 am 
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Greetings Louis
I have seen two similar examples here in Taiwan where they were attributed to the Yi in Yunnan as part of a 'shaman's outfit'. The ground of these examples is similarly of undyed bast fibre with cotton embroidery.
On p. 184 of the book, "The Costumes and Adornments of Chinese Yi Nationality Picture Album" ISBN 7805260338 there are images of a modern 'pull-over garment' attributed to the Yi in Xundian Bangiao, Yunnan, which, although quite different in materials and colour scheme they do bear some similarity in overall shape as well as positioning of embroidered panels to your own example.
Regards
Iain


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 Post subject: Textile cut
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 2:49 am 
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A further detail regarding the examples in Taiwan: The longer back portion of the garments have actually been cut so that the garment does not have a straight edge that hangs down directly but instead has a steplike appearance. On both examples, directly below the embroidery located on the garment back a small portion of the hemp cloth has been gathered in rough pleats approximately 15cm across in the centre. Is this the same on your example?
Iain


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 10:26 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2004 12:37 pm
Posts: 42
Location: Austria / Europe
Hello

so its surely from Taiwan ??!

as it somehow looks like western African robes from Nigeria (Haussa related) too !?

regards
udo

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 Post subject: NOT from Taiwan
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 10:34 am 
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Hi Udo
No this piece is NOT from Taiwan. I was describing the two examples that I have seen that are here in Taiwan. Both pieces were said to be Yi from Yunnan. Again this textile and the ones I was describing are definitely NOT from any group in Taiwan.
Iain


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 12:16 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2004 12:37 pm
Posts: 42
Location: Austria / Europe
hi,

stylistically it strongly reminds me to the western part of Africa
Nigeria, Niger, Mali,...

@ louis: the material is really hemp ?!
because if so i would doubt it to be from Africa at all...


Enclosed 2 pictures out of John Gillow´s book / Africa textiles / Thames & Hudson (E) and Prestel (D) 2003

hopefully there are more opinions to follow.

regards
udo


Attachments:
File comment: niger pattern
djerma_niger.jpg
djerma_niger.jpg [ 58.78 KiB | Viewed 16458 times ]
File comment: mali tunica
mali.jpg
mali.jpg [ 44.51 KiB | Viewed 16458 times ]

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 Post subject: Yi
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 2:31 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 30, 2007 11:52 am
Posts: 72
Location: france
Hello iain

Yes there are pleats in the middle of the back piece below the embroidered panel.

It could be fine if you can post pictures of the exemples you cite, and picture of the cloth in situation.

Udo, I think the african hypothesis is very unlikely, because of the materials and the design. I know very well african clothing and there is nothing near of this cloth in the ethnical african wardrobe.

Louis


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 Post subject: Hear Yi, Hear Yi
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 3:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2003 6:34 pm
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Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
Bonjours Louis-
I agree with Iain, and think that you have a Yi woman's tunic in a style referred to as "a kind of ancient wear" in a Chinese text on the Yi (The Costumes and Adornments of Chinese Yi Nationality Picture Album, p.184). They say that it is documented in "Yunnan Chronicles" and "Chuxiong Chronicles" from the Qing Dynasty. The Yi are predominantly in Yunnan Province and this "mode of costume is mainly popular in the mountainous areas among the counties of Xundian, Luquan, Songming, Shizong, and Luoping". It is made of hemp (charmingly called "fire weed" in the book) in several narrow panels sewn together to form the final width. If you want to see one that I have, to compare yours to, it is here: http://www.tribaltrappings.com/TACH_5.html

The short side is the front and the long one, the back; it is worn with a belt gathering the long side up at the waist. The photos below are from the book and one shows women wearing the modern version (note the two women in the middle to see how it's worn), and the other shows the modern version, of a similar shape to ours, but with very different designs. I have seen just a few of these, but all had the same general designs and coloration as ours.


Attachments:
Mail-Yi-tunic--in-situ.jpg
Mail-Yi-tunic--in-situ.jpg [ 44.21 KiB | Viewed 16445 times ]
Mail-Yi-tunic.jpg
Mail-Yi-tunic.jpg [ 40.26 KiB | Viewed 16445 times ]

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 Post subject: Images
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 3:11 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 01, 2007 11:30 am
Posts: 315
Greetings Louis
Here are images of a third robe provided by the owner located in China who also states that this is a Yi jacket from Yunnan. They did not, however, lend to it a shamanistic affiliation.
This particular robe I have not seen in person but from the images it appears very similar to the two I have seen in Taiwan. The images include both back and front views as well as a detail of the pleating and a close up of the embroidery which (I think) is located on the the back of the robe. What does appear to be slightly different on this robe is that the back appears to have not been cut in a steplike fashion but hangs straight down. Also there appear to be slightly fewer pleats on the back which in this case are held in place with both red and blue cotton thread. On the examples in Taiwan these threads are undyed.
Regards
Iain


Attachments:
File comment: Front view of robe
Yi robe Front view.jpg
Yi robe Front view.jpg [ 37.79 KiB | Viewed 16441 times ]
File comment: Back view of robe
Yi robe back view.jpg
Yi robe back view.jpg [ 46.82 KiB | Viewed 16441 times ]
File comment: Detail of embroidery (located on back?)
Back embroidery detail1.jpg
Back embroidery detail1.jpg [ 127.31 KiB | Viewed 16441 times ]
File comment: Detail of pleat located just below the back embroidered panel
pleat close up.jpg
pleat close up.jpg [ 50.04 KiB | Viewed 16441 times ]
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 Post subject: Images galore
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 3:23 pm 
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Posts: 315
Hi Susan many thanks for scanning those images - my scanner is down and these were the images I spoke of. Thanks too for jogging my memory of the Yi tunic on your site. Now to find some more.... I do enjoy the feel of these garments I find them visually quite stunning.
Regards
Iain


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 1:22 pm 
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Location: Canterbury, UK
also see thread http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... php?t=1136 for more on this and other Yi textiles

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 Post subject: another Yi tunic
PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 4:17 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 30, 2007 11:52 am
Posts: 72
Location: france
Bonjour à tous

Here is one other Yi cloth of a type quite different of the first ex discussed here.
The tunic is bigger and longer (may be this a male garment). Some details are appliqué, another embroideries.

Any info will be welcome;

Amicalement
Louis


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tunique02.jpg
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028.jpg
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022.jpg
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005.jpg
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002.jpg
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 Post subject: same tunic!!!
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 2:56 am 
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Posts: 315
Hi Louis
I too have one of these capes! My source claimed it was from Luxi Co.. There are similarities in the appliqued woven strips to a couple of Yi jackets and tunics that I have from this area. This cape is indeed quite differently constructed with a vertical slit for the head (in place of the square hole) and the curious placement of embroidery and appliqed weaving located on the inside of the long back. This cape is also incredibly long and I was discussing this with Andrew who kindly visited my exhibition. In other Yi costumes found in and around this area it is not uncommon for an extra panel to be attached to the inside of long jackets/dresses. This panel is usually ornately decorated particulary along the base and is firstly drawn to the outside of the garment, turned over and then drawn across to the other side where it is then attached. Mmmmm I can see that some "in action photos" will be better.....
Interestingly the cotton applique strips that appear on newer Yi capes and jackets in my collection replace appliqued and embroidered wool strips found on similar capes I have dating to the 1930's.


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 Post subject: Cape images
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 4:32 am 
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Here are two images of the cape discussed above. I realise people are getting to know my tiles :) so will try to photo this cape whilst it is on exhibition.
On this cape all woven sections are appliqued onto the baste fibre ground and appear to have been dyed using plant materials. On the chest covering the woven appliqued strips also have supplemental woolen embroidery. The borders ajoining each appliqued woven strip are formed from appliqued blue, red, black and white cotton strips.


Attachments:
File comment: Yi cape
Front/chest view

Yi_cape_front.jpg
Yi_cape_front.jpg [ 66.75 KiB | Viewed 15223 times ]
File comment: Yi cape
Back/shoulder view

Yi_cape_back.jpg
Yi_cape_back.jpg [ 45.44 KiB | Viewed 15223 times ]
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 Post subject: Detail of chest piece
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 4:48 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 01, 2007 11:30 am
Posts: 315
Here is a close up of the appliqued woven strip with supplemental woolen embroidery and appliqued cotton borders.


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Chest_detail.jpg
Chest_detail.jpg [ 68.03 KiB | Viewed 15219 times ]
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