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Pamela

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I do realise this response is a little delayed. Looking at the small section of this piece available I have some doubts as to the appellation 'Afrikaner' for this piece. Firstly the colour use of purple and gold is something that I do not recall ever seeing in their everday repetoire. There is this colour combination on textiles used for religious purposes - however the embroidery is extemely restrained (perhaps reflecting Calvinistic traditions) and this pece would be way over the top for use in any Nederduitse Gereformeerde Kerk (Dutch Reformed Church). Furthermore the frayed braid edging that may be seen as an internal border is not something commonly used in the textiles/embroidery of Afrikaner women.
As to the possible origin I agree with Sandra that this may have been made for or influenced by European traditions and this would make a definite origin almost impossible to determine. The following elaborates: I have a couple of pieces from East Africa which use this type of braid and colour combination. This may explain my intial feeling that this may be a piece made in the previous East African colonies of Kenya, Tanganyika and Uganda. Here there was a large influence from workers from both India and the Middle East particularly Oman. That said, I also have a table covering purchased by my grandfather whilst on service during WWII in the Western Desert and a second commercially produced piece originating from Egypt which bear similarities! All of these areas could easily be given the racist appellation of "kaffir" bearing testimony to it's African origins and its collection and use by non-Africans.
As to the metal composition: It could be metallic gold thread but it also possible that it is a form of 'Dutch metal' (an alloy of copper and zinc). If I recall correctly this alloy is roughly 85% copper and 15% zinc and is rather resistant to tarnishing and resembles gold. It is however more commony used as a gold leaf substitute. Would it be possible to see a fuller picture?
Regarding the comment on degrogatory terms: the term 'Boer' meaning 'farmer' was in the past used by Afrikaans speaking people to refer to themselves. However, it has been repeatedly used in a derogatory term by English mother tongue users in South Africa and more recently as a discriminatory term by black South Africans. Perhaps the most infamous use of the term 'Boer' was put into use by the African National Congress as "Kill the Boer, kill the farmer". During the apartheid era in South Africa the police were called "Boers" adding further depth to the negative and racist connotations that this word has acquired. Most Afrikaans speaking people will refer to themselves now as 'Afrikaners' which simply means 'African' in Afrikaans and possibly reflects the best desire to identify themselves as belonging to Africa.
Regards
Iain

Hi,

I was very interested in your comments concerning this textile. Of course, it may be from anywhere in Africa. I think I was connecting the cloth with the term"kaffir" which is a word normally found in Southern Africa.

Could it be from North Africa? Of French origin?

Thank you for opening up this textile to further debate.


Your comment on "BOER" is yet another example of the power of words, and the meaning of words to be extended outside their initial meaning.


Sandie

Just to throw in my tupence worth:
The dark red fabric could well be British uniform cloth, which was used in a similar manner as the foundation for embroidery in India and other colonies, also in Iran. The woolen cloth is fulled (felted) so well that it doesn't ravel, as can be seen at one place in the upper right corner. I have seen military bandsmen's jackets in England in similar material, that weren't seamed around the bottom, because it was unncessary.

Larry

Dear Jessica,

Thank you so much for sharing with us. I've learnt so much from this post you've started.

I'm afraid I can't add much more info on this fine piece, but it is interesting to note that here in the Malay World, people used to employ felt as their base material for embroidery as well. Velvet is also a very popular fabric for embroidery and both of these were of course imported from Europe.

PS: Being a Muslim, I can definitely confirm that "kafir" is a derogatory term.