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 Post subject: Couple description
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 2:38 pm 
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Siriol and Pamela here is a loose synopsis of the Chinese on p.46 (and continuing over on to p.47):
This group is indeed Zhuang and said to be located on the western border region of Guanxi Province. This style of clothing is said to be unchanged and the black, very dark blue colour, arising from the indigo dyeing of hemp/ramie has resulted in this group being termed the Black Zhuang (literally the Black Clothes Zhuang).
What follows next is a description of the man’s clothing: the jacket is said to always be black in colour with “Chinese knot buttons” down the front. The headscarf is wrapped so as to give a conical shape on the top. Finally, the trousers are described as always being wide in fit.
Then there is a description of the woman’s clothing and here it gets a little interesting. The outer jacket is described as always being flared with a curved hem ending at the navel, with the jacket opening closing on the right hand side. This style is also noted for the addition of the blue bands on the cuff, hemline and collar of the outer jacket.
The headscarf is described as being flatter and triangular in shape (and also trimmed in blue).
Worn underneath the outer jacket is another, longer, black jacket (in the photo this appears to look like a pleated skirt) which also closes on the right hand side.
There is a simple description of how the necklace appears. Then there is a description of the trousers noted for also being wide, like those of the man.
Finally, this particular style of woman’s outfit is known locally as the “three layers dress”.


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 Post subject: Further Zhuang groups
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 2:39 pm 
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On pp163-164 is a photo of a closely related Zhuang group here pictured at a ‘Courting festival’ in Sanjiang County. A number of parallels may be drawn: the basic three layers shorter outer jacket - blue bands at the cuff (none on the hemline or collar) and right closing; a longer pleated second jacket worn beneath (this time with blue bands on the cuffs, pleated but not drawn up; and trousers however these are now very narrow/form hugging; simple unadorned headscarf.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 2:48 pm 
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As you mentioned Pamela, several groups appear to use the layering of fabric in their jacket construction. Adding to this and relating the layer combination with short pants the following may be of interest:
The Yao in several regions, particularly in Guanxi, also layer their jackets and, in the case of the men, wear shorts. See p.151 of the first volume: 'Art of Guangxi Minorities Customs: Colorful Costumes' (volume with individuals wearing the clothing) which shows a ‘White Trouser’ Yao man. In the accompanying volume on pp52-55 may be seen an example of this man’s costume. The red striped design on the shorts is done to apparently recall their ancestors sacrifice and defence of their dignity against the Han Chinese. It is also said that this style remains unchanged and that returning villagers will remove their city/foreign clothes and redon this costume before reentering the village. Indeed images presented in Minority Textile Techniques: Costumes from South West China (p.120) would support this idea of basic design retention, albeit that, in the newer costumes, colours appear somewhat brighter.


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 Post subject: Hani ?
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 3:03 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 30, 2007 11:52 am
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Location: france
Bonjour à tous et bonne année

The seller of the little multilayered jacket said :
"As far as I known, this kind jacket is from Honghe (Honghe means red
river) area, Yunnan Province, South-west China. Many minority people
live adjacent in the same area, Miao, Hani, Yi, etc "


This info militates for the Hani hypothesis, as the Dong are far from this area (Guizhou/Hunan).

Louis


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 3:36 pm 
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Location: Canterbury, UK
Iain

Very many thanks indeed for taking the time to give all the info above. Much appreciated. Makes me realise what good info I am missing by not reading Chinese in the Guangxi book set (I have the babycarriers set as well). Still, the photos are excellent and I have such supportive forum friends.... for which I am truly grateful!

Louis

Many thanks for the feedback from your dealer. I really feel these are Yunnan clothing. I wish there were more good books re Yunnan minorities. This has turned into an interesting thread. Thanks for starting it and then sharing your jacket and feedback.

best wishes,

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http://www.tribaltextiles.info
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 Post subject: Hani in Yunnan
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 9:47 pm 
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On the Books section of the forum I have posted some information on a book on the minorities of Yunnan 'Cream of Yunling: A Photo Odessey of Yunnan Ethnic Groups'. http://www.tribaltextiles.info/communit ... =3289#3289

In the section on the Hani - pages 30 - 37 - I found a photo (figure 17 on page 35) which I think shows two girls wearing the many layered jackets. It is not very clear but I am pretty sure that I can see the layers. I am posting the image here. Ignore the apparent dark stripes on the arm of the jacket of the woman to the right. These do not show up when you see the image in the book but seems to be an aberration in the digitising by the scanner. I have tried scanning it twice but the same thing happened each time.

Interesting to note that the very plain indigo is covered by a collar of metal studs very much in the Hani/Akha style as well as silver chains. It would be these that first hit the eye rather than the very subtle layers of the jackets. It may be that fewer layers are worn for every day dress and perhaps more layers at festivals especially those related to marriage. The white head coverings are in contrast to the indigo one shown in Marie Noelle's three pieces of costume. I think that the silver 'flowers' around the lower body of the woman on the right are not attached to the jacket but something else tied around the waist or perhaps the shorts.

The introduction on the Hani (page 30) says:
Quote:
"With a long history, sharing the same origin from the Diqiang tribe people as Yi, Naxi and Lahu ethnic groups, the Hani people's population is 1.29 million in Yunnan province. The overwhelming majority are distributed over the central region of the river basins of the Red River and Lancangjiang River, the vast area between the Ailaoshan Mountain and Wuliangshan Mountain, and live in the Honghe Hani and Yi Nationality Autonomous Prefecture in compact community. Hani has its own spoken language but no writing system in history. They are mainly engaged in agriculture and skilled in cultivating water rice paddies on terraces .......

The Hani ethnic group has numerous branches. Black and blue are the main colours of their traditional dress with variations for local conditions. Hani women learn to embroider skillfully and like to edge with colorful lace and decorate with silver chains, coins and bulbs......"


This seems to endorse the information given to Louis by the dealer from whom he bought his jacket.


Attachments:
File comment: Fig 17, page 35 of 'Cream of Yunling: A Photo Odessey of Yunnan Ethnic Groups'. The caption says: 'Wearing silver balls, coins and fish is symbolic in a woman's life'.
hani-many-layered.jpg
hani-many-layered.jpg [ 63.03 KiB | Viewed 7240 times ]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 10:37 pm 
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I thought that I would share some photos of a woman's 8 layered jacket which I now have in my collection. It arrived with a man's 10 layered jacket (which is very similar to the one that Louis has showed us). Both of my jackets were said to be Hani from Yunnan although I gather that they came from different sources. I love the ties - three threads with a tassel attached to each layer of the jacket.

My first thought when the jackets arrived was - how heavy they are (not surprising with all those layers, of course) and how tiny the wearers would be. You would feel very bundled up when wearing them.


Attachments:
womans_jacket_back.jpg
womans_jacket_back.jpg [ 69.88 KiB | Viewed 7212 times ]
womans_jacket_back_detail_1.jpg
womans_jacket_back_detail_1.jpg [ 64.68 KiB | Viewed 7212 times ]
womans_jacket_front.jpg
womans_jacket_front.jpg [ 62.46 KiB | Viewed 7212 times ]
womans_jacket_front_det_2.jpg
womans_jacket_front_det_2.jpg [ 69.41 KiB | Viewed 7212 times ]
womans_jacket_front_detail_.jpg
womans_jacket_front_detail_.jpg [ 65.02 KiB | Viewed 7212 times ]

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Pamela

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 Post subject: Hani
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 3:25 am 
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Thanks for posting that image Pamela - was about to do the same! In another book similar images attribute this group more specfically as belonging to the Hani Yeche group found, as stated earlier by Louis's source as being located in Honghe, and more specifically in the Ailo mountain region of Honghe County.


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 Post subject: White hat
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 3:31 am 
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The images which I mentioned in the previous post also shows one women wearing a white hood/hat whilst a second, who also wears a white hood, has an additional round hat with streamers worn on top of this. Unfortunately the printed image quality is very poor. I have also come across another image of the white hood and round hat combination on the front cover of a book on Christian mission to the Hani on the net which I post here.


Attachments:
File comment: Figure 5: Yeche (a branch of the Hani's) women, living in the Ailao Mountain area.
State Nationalities Affairs Commission. (1995). China's Minority People's: The Hani's. Beijing: China Pictorial Publishing House. p.39

Yeche women.jpg
Yeche women.jpg [ 69.87 KiB | Viewed 7183 times ]
ea1_china_sw_hani.jpg
ea1_china_sw_hani.jpg [ 13.32 KiB | Viewed 7187 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 11:21 am 
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Iain,

Very many thanks for these photos.

I know it is a repeat, perhaps useful at this stage, but I am posting again the image from Marie-Noelle's catalogue which appears on page 1 of this thread. Here the head covering is indigo not white, although the similar style which I have also seen (with embroidery) with the Akha in Thailand and I have one example which I bought in Chiang Mai in 1988.

The photo shows a very similar jacket to mine and also the very short, shorts with complex folding. They look pretty uncomfortable to me!


Attachments:
File comment: Hani woman's costume, Yiche or Katu style. Yunnan province from 'Minzu jia: At the crossroads of traditions'.
hani_776.jpg
hani_776.jpg [ 58.55 KiB | Viewed 7171 times ]

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 Post subject: White or indigo
PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 4:25 am 
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Pamela
I spoke with a friend this weekend and mentioned the 'white/indigo' head coverings in question. I had wondered whether the colour difference may reflect age/marriage status - but apparently this is not so. They claimed that both types are worn by Hani women - specifically the Yeche branch - and that head covering colour depended on locality and not age. Unfortunately they were unable to be more specific. As yet I have to find an image of a Hani woman wearing the indigo version but I attach a couple more images where the white head cover appears negating the possibility of a colour-age link!


Attachments:
Hani2.jpg
Hani2.jpg [ 27.18 KiB | Viewed 7077 times ]
Hani3.jpg
Hani3.jpg [ 42.52 KiB | Viewed 7077 times ]
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